You made it through another summer. Today is the first day of meteorological fall (Sep-Nov) and for Northern CA, the first day of the good wave or big wave season as we know it which will run through March 1. The N Pac never really went to sleep this summer - absent the usual NE Pacific High Pressure holding court - instead - CA weather was and remains under the influence of mostly low pressure and associated systems meandering about in the Gulf of Alaska. This keeps high pressure from the desert southwest in check - for the most part - we've seen some warmer weeks recently especially for people not along the coast. We look to enter another season of La Niña, but it's weak and should fade out by Spring of 2026. A few buoy updates - Bodega, PAPA and West Oregon all remain offline. Given the current administration and cuts to NOAA and the NWS I do not expect these buoys to be redeployed. PAPA is a key one given its location 600 NM offshore as it usually gives us a good preview of incoming winter swells. The next buoy in line is the California Buoy - about 357NM offshore. No swell making weather systems are in the N Pac at the moment. We do have a good run of south to southwest swell underway - most stations showing 3-4ft @17 from 195 degrees this morning - quite solid. Look for mostly southern swell energy all week with plenty of waves to ride. Winds look strongest from the northwest early this week and mostly outer waters fading towards the end of the week. Keeping an eye on the N Pac for our first swell maker to the season. Cya in the water.
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