The fall transition to North Pacific swells is well underway in the Gulf. A series of low pressure systems, energized by the remnants of West Pac typhoons is traversing around 40 N. The energy from the West is energizing the jet stream - winds are strong in an area of deep low pressure up under Alaska. We also have locally generated windswell hitting mostly points from SF north. First pulse of northwest swell is forecast to arrive later on Saturday likely peaking around 6-8 ft @13 seconds from 300 deg. At the same time - windswell will increase further to 11ft@10 seconds mostly in the outer waters. Northwest swell will remain moderate in size from 5-6ft @12-14 seconds through Tuesday. Biggest north of SF. Then we have our first real swell of the fall season to come in Wednesday - peaking at 10ft @14 seconds. Winds stay strong from the northwest until Sunday, when the direction will change to south as the first in a series of storm systems comes ashore for most of Northern California with some moisture making it's way into Central CA. South winds on and off through about Wednesday of next week. Rain on and off through the period - heaviest SF north where a few inches will fall. To the south, keep an eye on Hurricane Narda to toss in decent south swell - close source - 3-4 ft @12-13 seconds from 180. That will likely impact So Cal most to Santa Cruz. Everything else further north will be under the influence of the bigger northerly swells. Plenty to ride, some rain, wind, etc, all the things about fall we look forward to. Cya in the water.
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