Thursday, May 28, 2020

UPDATED FORECAST - END OF MAY IS ACTIVE

While northwest winds have been savage, looking towards tomorrow into the weekend, they will begin to shift east to south as a low pressure system approaches the CA Coast bringing a chance of thunderstorms and rain on and off through late Saturday.   We have two new south swells building today - one from 200 deg and the other from 188.   The second, steeper swell looks potentially pretty fun with deepwater swell forecast at 3ft plus with long periods initially at 19-20 seconds Friday dropping into Saturday.   The more "west" south, a touch smaller but long periods from Thursday to Friday.   At the same time, very active North Pacific is sending a pulse of northwest swell from 298 deg, building late Friday and fading into Sunday.   That swell will be biggest north, 6-8 ft at 14 seconds Friday into Saturday.   Northwest winds will return by Sunday.   More action from the southern hemisphere looks to continue into the first week of June.  Plenty of surf on tap, some weather,  better winds.  Cya in the water.

Saturday, May 16, 2020

UPDATED FORECAST - 5-16

Another late season storm system will come onshore later today with rain and south wind into Monday.   Long period south swell is not showing at buoys yet, but is forecast to build later today starting at 2ft 21 seconds.  From the looks of it, very late.  South sticks around and fills in tomorrow, while at the same time the first of a series of west swells also builds.   The first, will come in around 5 ft at 14-15 seconds, the second, 5ft at 11 seconds.  Both west swells from around 295 degrees.   The south from 200-204 deg. Winds are probably gonna be the lightest today from the south.  Switching to southwest to west tomorrow and Monday.  Then back to typical northwest flow.   So, plenty to ride, winds might make it tricky.  Be safe and make sure to stay at least six feet from others when outside.  Cya in the water.

Thursday, May 7, 2020

BACK AT IT - UPDATED FORECAST

Hope everyone is safe and sane.  As a few more places to surf are coming online, felt it was a good time to start updating again.  We do have a pretty decent south/southeast swell headed our way, in the water and moving north.   Probably see some early forerunners very late Friday (and possibly overnight) and then starting to fill in Saturday at 2-3ft at 19 seconds - from about 195.  Swell will fill in more Sunday and Monday with deep water heights pushing 3-4 feet at 15-18 seconds.  So could be quite solid.  Winds actually will start to wind down some headed into the weekend - light northwest on Saturday, changing to light southwest for Sunday and south on Monday.  Southern wind shifts as a result of a pretty impressive late season storm that will come onshore Monday into Wednesday with a decent soaking rain region wide - especially North Bay and points north.  Have a persistent northwest swell hanging around through the period - 5-8 feet (bigger north) at 11-13 seconds.   So plenty to ride, check you winds and be safe out there.  Cya in the water.