Sunday, May 28, 2023

UPDATED FORECAST - 5-29

Happy Memorial Day Weekend.   Old south is fading out while a new southwest swell is slowly filling in. So Cal buoys picking up on this energy - about 2-3 ft at 20 seconds.  Showing as far north as the SF Bar Buoy - picking up 4ft at 20 seconds from 200 plus deg.   Swell will get up towards Pt Arena overnight and should be hitting the entire coast by late Sunday morning.   North of Bodega lot of northwest windswell in the water - 7-8ft @9 sec from 315 plus.   Winds are mostly northwest over the outer waters and some nearshore waters - the winds will turn southeast again for Monday - 10-15 kts with stronger gusts as we get a southerly wind reversal - which will bring in even more fog for Monday morning - not like we haven't had enough as it is already.   Low pressure system is dropping down the State, kicking up thunderstorms over the interior & Sierra, some of these might make it to the Mendocino Coast late today.  Southwest swell looks to stick around through Wednesday right now.   Winds should veer back to the northwest Tuesday on.   Cya in the water.  

Monday, May 22, 2023

UPDATED FORECAST - 5-22

 Strong northwest winds have been blowing over the outer waters for the past 48 hours and will continue to do so for the next 48 hours.  As a result, wind swell has come up 9-14 ft at 8-10 seconds, biggest north of Bodega Bay.   Very steep angle due to the wind direction, 325 deg, so for tucked away spots very small surf will result.  Wind swell will peak in size Tuesday/Wednesday - 10-13 ft @11 seconds.   So it's something to ride.   South swell stays on the smaller side all week, but we will see pulses all week, building some into Thursday/Friday as a somewhat larger southeast swell builds in from about 195-200 deg.   Don't expect any of these souths to be like the last run - most likely staying around 2 ft with 17-20 sec period.   No real break all week in the winds until about Friday, and even then only forecast to drop to 10-15 knots.   Late Spring, it's all going as planned.   The only other change in the weather this week will be cooler temps region wide, as a low pressure system hangs out, chance of some showers in the mountains and ongoing fog.  No big warm up expected.   Cya in the water.  

Wednesday, May 17, 2023

UPDATED FORECAST 5-17 - Solid run of south swell to continue

 Buoys showing deepwater around 3ft @17 which will continue today, heading up some tonight and tomorrow to 3-4@19-20 seconds!   Unfortunately northwest winds will crank back up with small craft advisory level winds for most of the Coast through the weekend.  Look for the south swell to stick around through the weekend, gradual fade of energy.    

Saturday, May 13, 2023

UPDATED FORECAST 5-13, Gulf Swell, more South

 N Pac swell just showing at outer buoys - 7-8ft @14.   Mixed in some wind swell in the 7 sec range and south swell continuing at 2.9@14.   South fades some today before a new pulse of south swell starts to build in Sunday.   N Pac swell will gradually fade into Monday, but still decent on Sunday.   Winds light right now but will push strong from the northwest again later today.  It is Spring after all and it wouldn't be Nor Cal without a fresh northwest wind.   Hot inland today, seasonable at the coast.  Wind reversal tomorrow will start to slow the heat wave some, with light south winds building through the day, continuing into Monday.   Winds head back to the northwest by Tuesday.   South swell run looks to continue into next week as well.   Cya in the water.  



Friday, May 5, 2023

UPDATED FORECAST 5-5, RUN OF SOUTHWEST SWELL

 Clean conditions to start the day in between late season storms.   New long period southwest swell is filling in - about 2ft at 18sec from 215.   Northwest swell from the past two days is fading at 4-5ft @13sec.  Look for the southwest swell to continue through weekend and into the first part of next week with long period wave heights staying around 2-3 ft.   Fairly light west to south winds today & tomorrow, then more southwest wind on Sunday turning northwest again on Tuesday - as we have a couple more small rain makers set to come through the region.   Rain later today, spreading south and then again on Monday.   South Pacific is for sure turning on so expect things to continue to pick up through the end of May.  Should see less activity from the N Pac, but given the energy out there and El NiƱo in development, would not be surprised by a few more very off season pulses of northwest swell.   Cya in the water.