UPDATED FORECAST 6-7 - SOUTH SWELL OF THE CENTURY? DON'T BELIEVE THE HYPE.....BUT.....

 By now depending on where you consume your surf forecast, you've heard we have a very strong south swell inbound starting tomorrow (for So Cal), filling in and pretty much pumping Tuesday/Wednesday/Thursday.   I've heard nonsense like 11ft @19 seconds, 100 year swell, etc.   Is it going to be big?  Yes, it will actually be a very strong swell - and in the middle of quite a run of south swells over the past two weeks (Thank you building El Niño).  I  do think this swell will end up being one of the bigger swells of the past couple years, peaking around 4-5ft@19-20 seconds on Tuesday/Wednesday.  100 year swell?  Probably not.  Now a few factors to take into account.  First, the actual swell might end up coming in bigger than forecast.   It was a powerful storm that created it, down in the favorable east of New Zealand corridor.  What makes it stronger than most, winds, fetch and movement.  The storm was taking a favorable northeast track towards HI/So Cal swell windows, moving over an already disturbed ocean state thanks to these pre running south swells and when you have wind and storm moving in the same direction (virtual fetch) you get a significant swell event.  I'd say keep an eye on the buoys around Tuesday.  That will be a good indicator of what we are dealing with.  For Nor Cal, SF and points beyond - the real action will likely be later Tuesday and then all day Wednesday.  This is also the kind of swell event that will light up novelty, rare south swell points and reefs, so if you know, you know.  Winds will not be ideal - strong northwest flow is forecast most of the week.  Cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST 6-1, SOUTH FOR DAYS

 Jun 1.  About to see a long run of south swells from a very active storm track Down Under.  Long period swell already in the water today - running around 2-2.5ft @20 seconds from around 200 deg.  Swell will run through the week as two swells overlap.   Deep water heights should stay in the 2ft + range, with periods running from 15 - 20 seconds for the most part.  Swell direction will stay in the 200-205 degree zone.  For points north of Santa Cruz, big factor will be the ongoing northwest winds and larger north wind swell.  This will decay these inbound swells some, but given the long period energy, some decent waves will still show.  No let up in northwest winds through the week.  Water temps remain cold near shore - 48-51 degrees north of Jenner.   Bit warmer around SF at 53 degrees.  Cya in the water.