Saturday, September 13, 2025

UPDATED FORECAST 9-13

 First northwest swell of the early season is peaking today along the CA Coast - biggest north of SF at round 7-8ft @14-15 seconds.  Swell direction is 305.   Small south in the background around 2ft@14 from 205.  Another early season storm will brush far Northern California tomorrow and behind it high pressure will build in next week warming temps back up.   It will be windy the next couple days - out of the north/northwest - especially north of SF.   Winds will begin to settle late next week.  Background south swells forecast most of next week - nothing notable until around Wednesday when a longer period south builds in.   There is the potential for another larger northwest swell next week as well - looking at the models things could get interesting around next Thursday and likely more swell behind that as the season is starting in the N Pac and slowing down for the Summer in the Southern Hemisphere.   As NOAA stations/buoys continue to go offline it will become increasingly harder to accurately forecast.  Even basic things like nearshore water temperature become harder to locate given malfunctioning NOAA stations.   Don't look for anyone to repair or replace in the near future.   We will be back to the OG ways soon - just get in your vehicle and drive until you see surf..........cya in the water.  

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