Tuesday, December 26, 2017


Light winds and moderate northwest to west swell should continue Christmas week.   Buoys right now are 6-7 ft at 13 from 295 plus.   Reinforcing shot of west swell rolls in starting tomorrow and Thursday -that should take surf heights back up some to 6-7ft at 15 seconds.   Slow fade into the weekend.   The persistent ridge blocking all storms from the west coast as well as shunting a lot of swell producing storms way up into the Gulf of AK is showing signs of breaking down.   If you read the NOAA forecasts on this page you will see that we're starting to see signs of things changing around the first week in January.   Hopefully that comes to pass and we will start getting some rain - which is also good for many local beaches and spots along the Central CA Coast during the winter - opening up river mouths, sandbars and other locations.  

Sunday, December 17, 2017


On track for one of the driest Decembers on record.   Small storm system due to drop in Tues/Wed time frame but don't expect much rain south of SF and very light amounts.   High pressure will regain control right after.   North winds blowing 15-25kts with gusts to 30 - northwest swell is 7ft at 12 seconds.   Look for winds to gradually wind down tomorrow - swell to range 6-10ft at 12 seconds.   Winds remain light until Wed when northwest winds ramp up behind front passage.   Swell to range 6-9ft through Thursday.   Long term weather models suggest a wet pattern might take shape from the end of Dec thru Jan 13th - by then we will really need some weather around here.   If the pattern doesn't show more promise in January we could be in for a very dry winter which wont bode well for CA.   Cya in the water.  

Saturday, December 2, 2017


December.   Large back to back northwest swells have been rolling in.   Swell is down a tad from the past two days but still 10-12ft at 15-17 seconds this am.   Quite solid.   Winds are generally light and variable with a bit of an offshore component in some spots.   Solid swell looks to stick around at least through Monday - decreasing by a foot or so each day while the period drops.   Chance of rain from Marin north tonight into Sunday, then we're high and dry for the remainder of the week as a more continental airmass will arrive from the north giving us some very cold nights during the first part of the week, moderating some from mid week on.   North winds will pick up early in the week, then turn light to offshore from about Wednesday on.  So it could be a nice run of days once we get through this weather.   Keep an eye on the winds, plenty of surf on tap.   Cya in the water.