Monday, December 20, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST - 12-20

Stormy week ahead as low pressure sits offshore and spins waves of rain through CA.   Very strong south to southeast winds look like the rule through mid week - then changing to west winds on Thursday and Friday.   Look for good size south wind swell to develop starting today - mixed in with periods of longer period northwest swell through the week.  Things may clean up some towards Christmas - until then if you have a spot that likes south winds and south wind swell - that's your call.   Cya in the water.  

Tuesday, December 7, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST 12-7

Storm door has opened again after a long dry spell.  Series of fronts will push through well into next week with the strongest storm looking like it will happen late in the weekend into Monday.   Swell looks to stay quite small actually until Thursday/Friday when a new northwest swell train starts to hit the Coast, look for deepwater heights on Friday of 10-12 ft.  We will see a lot of wind with these next few systems, cold winds from the northwest and cold temps later in the week - in other words - Winter in Nor Cal!  Spots with some protection from the wind will be the best bet.   Looking ahead into Mid December the N Pac is going to stay active and we will likely see an increase in larger swells to follow.   More on that to come.  Cya in the water.  

Friday, November 19, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST 11-19

New mid period swell slowly filling in today - 8-10ft at 11-13 seconds.  Winds have switched to the north with the passage of the low pressure system that came through.   Look for north winds on Saturday, switching to northeast Sunday.   Swell will come down a notch Saturday - 7-9ft, and drop further on Sunday, 6-8ft.   Swell looks to stay fairly tame into the start of Thanksgiving week - and light winds at least on Monday.  Winds and swell might tick up some on Tuesday.    High pressure should maintain control of our weather pattern through next weekend.  Signs of a stronger storm track on the horizon for early December when the pattern might start to get stormy again.   Until then, fun size surf to ride - check the winds.  Cya in the water.  

Monday, November 8, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST 11-8

 Incoming storm tonight will drop copious amounts of rain through tomorrow and then we will dry out for a while as high pressure builds.   Swell is only 7-8ft at 12 seconds.   Winds will pick up strong out of the southeast as the day goes on and get very strong tonight.   Looking for swell to stay in the 9ft plus zone through Wednesday, then slow fade into Friday getting fairly small by then (4-6ft).   Variable winds the next few days, southeast to west - then turning north as we head into the weekend.  So, surf around if you know where to look with the changing winds.   Cya in the water. 


Sunday, October 24, 2021

40 ft at 16 seconds!

Papa Buoy is showing 40ft at 16 seconds - let that sink in for a bit.   That is in vicinity of where our current storm is bottoming out (or bomb cyclone) as the forecasters like to call it - when the pressure drops  24 millibars in 24 hours, which our current storm almost doubled that!   Anyway - that's the swell inbound for tonight and as we start the week.  Not that surfing conditions our ideal - it's a mess out there and probably crazy to drive anywhere on the Coast.   Give it a few days as high pressure looks to re build mid week.  Cya in the water.  

Saturday, October 23, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST 10-23 - BIG AND STORMY

 Super charged N Pac Jetstream is sending a wave of early season storms to the West Coast.  La Nina is back for year two, but because it's displaced further West this season, the storm track is riding up and over and delivering much needed rain and snow to CA.  It's also delivering XXL surf, south winds and slop.  The next giant swell train lands Sunday night - 18-20ft at 18 seconds with SW winds and an atmospheric river (AR) event, first decent one of the season and best we've seen in a long while - that will deliver copious amounts of rain to the entire region.   Swell will max out Monday - 23-25ft at 18 seconds!  Slow fade into mid week when high pressure finally builds in giving us a break.   Next Wednesday might be the first surf day for many (most likely for me) when we get north winds and more mortal size surf in the 9-11 ft range.  Until then, there are some spots that will harness this kind of size and swell if you know where to look.  Cya in the water.  

Monday, October 11, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST 10-11

It's windy and raw over the open ocean this morning as north to northwest winds drive down CA along with a dry "inside slider" cold front.   Ocean has responded and wind swell has jacked up 10ft plus and water temps are tumbling far north - already back to 52 and falling.   Look for big wind swell and some northwest swell mixed in all week - not clean unless you hit a south facing point that can handle the wind and sort out of the confusion.  Not really seeing any break in the winds the entire week, no rain in sight either as high pressure maintains control over CA.   Cya in the water.   

Tuesday, September 28, 2021

BIG NORTHWEST SWELL AND WIND

 Northern Buoys reading 14ft @14 from 310.  Swell is peaking tonight and will begin a slow fade into the weekend.   Unfortunately northwest winds have come in behind the front that departed yesterday and look to stick around most of the week.  Plenty of swell to ride, just need to find shelter from the winds.  Water temps have been warm but may begin to drop with the non stop winds over the outer waters.  Cya in the water.  

Monday, September 20, 2021

N Pac Awakes

 Solid Gulf of Alaska swell in the water today, built in overnight.  Running 6-10 ft from 310 (steep angle) at 14 seconds, larger north of the Sonoma Coast.  Winds are north to offshore.   Winds may not be much of a factor the next two days and then transition to more onshore - then back to north or offshore into the weekend.  Warm temps all the way to the Coast.  Fall.   Swell should stick around a good chunk of the week.  Cya in the water. 

Thursday, September 9, 2021

GOOD RUN OF SOUTH SWELL COMING UP, GULF SWELL TOO....

 Proverbial calm before the storm.  Significant south swell trains inbound starting late Saturday and lasting through most of next week.   The first pulse late Saturday will start at 1.5ft at 20 sec from 200, building more on Sunday while a second pulse builds in on top at 2ft 19 seconds from 195.   At the same time, a small Gulf swell will run in Sunday to Monday - about 4ft at 12-13 seconds from 310.   Small, but fun.   Monday into Tuesday, third pulse of southern hemi builds at 2ft at 21 sec from 185.  Swell should gradually fade mid week on but still feature plenty to ride.  Winds will probably stay out of the northwest, but may also blow south to southwest depending on fog development through the period.  Northwest winds will be strongest over the outer waters.  Probably be some windows of decent conditions especially at certain spots up and down the Coast.   N Pac will stir more over the weekend into next week, fall pattern trying to set up shop.   Cya in the water.  

Monday, September 6, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST - SOUTH SWELLS AND SOME GULF ACTION

 New south swell is peaking today and tomorrow - running around 2ft at 18 from 190.  We also have an early season Gulf of Alaska wind swell in from a small storm that ran under the Aleutians late last week.  It's 3-6 ft at 11 seconds (bigger north of Bodega) from 310.  Winds are mostly light south/southeast.   South swell will fade out tomorrow, wind swell to continue and period to drop as well.   Winds should stay pretty decent throughout the upcoming week - stronger northwest winds outer waters, variable winds near shore depending on fog coverage.   N Pac is trying to get started, but no significant swell makers yet.   Cya in the water.  

Wednesday, September 1, 2021

SEPTEMBER!

 Welcome to the 2021/2022 season.   Made it through another summer.   Not much on the charts unfortunately - consistent wind swell will provide something to ride at least, with a series of smaller south swells looking likely this coming weekend and beyond - but far from epic.  Keeping an eye on the N Pac for more signs of life and will update as needed.  Let's hope we have a calm fall around here fire wise - we have enough damage being done in the Sierra.    Cya in the water.  

Wednesday, August 11, 2021

September looms.....

Mid August.   The last couple weeks of summer upon us.  Not really much going on this week but starting to keep an eye on the N Pac where the jet stream is showing signs of life.  It does appear that we might have some early season energy coming from that direction in the next week or so.   Until then, very small southwest swells due in later this week - Friday to Monday - but really just dribbles.   Winds not bad, the thick blanket of fog - more normal fog coverage for summer in Nor Cal - is keeping light south to southwest winds along the coast.  Will update when i  see more action from the Gulf of Alaska and resume regular updates in September.  Cya in the water.  

Monday, June 21, 2021

SOLID NZ SOUTH

 New run of south swell in the water with the main event hitting today and tomorrow.  Swell is from a strong storm that was down near New Zealand, usually a pretty favorable location for us with swell direction 185-195.   Seeing some 3ft at 20 sec energy as the swell overtakes the early south swell that is still showing with energy at 2-3 ft at 15 seconds.   NZ swell will take over today and peak tomorrow at 3ft at 17 seconds.  Still decent on Wednesday and then fade out Thursday.  Fog is in, winds are light south to southeast for the next few days at the coast.  Winds will switch NE to NW mid week and beyond, yet remain pretty light in the 5-15kts range.  Go surf.  Cya in the water.  

Thursday, May 13, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST - South Swell run

 Decent run of south swell underway which might last until the end of the month.  Storm activity Down Under has been quite strong the past week and forecast to continue.  Current group of swells will run through Sunday and beyond with the two larger swells starting late Friday and again on Sunday.   We should see decent deepwater numbers in the 2-4ft range 17-19 seconds, 195-205 deg.   Fog has returned, so winds have been light south and should keep that way for a few days.   Models are forecasting north to northwest winds to increase into the weekend, but think that will be over the outer waters, nearshore may remain under the influence of south winds and fog.  Keep an eye on it.   Plenty to ride.   Cya in the water. 

Thursday, April 15, 2021

Run of South Swell....

Modest run of southerly/southwest swells ramps up today and should continue into the next week.  Deepwater swell readings this am showing swell 2-2.5 ft at 17 seconds from 205-210.  Today should be the peak of this first swell, fading some into tomorrow while more storms are lining up in the South Pac and will send energy in our direction.   Winds don't look that bad for April, light/variable to light northwest the next few days.  May pick up a bit over the outer waters over the weekend.  Water temps remain very cold - low 50s to upper 40s (far north).   Get some.  Cya in the water. 

Wednesday, March 17, 2021

Buoys are back online!

 Looks like our buoys have come back online - whatever technical issue resolved.   Not sure about you but I  felt lost without them.....

Thursday, March 11, 2021

**BUOYS ARE ALL OFFLINE....

 It appears NOAA is having some issues with their buoy stations - Russian hack maybe?  Ha.  

Use the CDIP Buoys link on the right side of the page under the Forecast Links banner.   Cya in the water.  

Friday, February 26, 2021

MARCH LOOMS....

Already feels like spring and certainly the northwest winds over the ocean spell doom for good waves at most breaks.   Sadly, March 1 is Monday and the traditional end to the "good" wave season in Nor Cal.   Was an interesting winter to stay the least.   I'll keep after reports through the spring and summer when conditions warrant - like a good run of south swell or light winds.   Otherwise - more regular reports will return September 1.   La Nina looks to fade over the summer so hopefully we will have a bit more storm activity next year and less wind.   Cya in the water.   

Friday, February 19, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST 2-19

 Yo yo!  Sorry for the long lag between updates!  Surf has been fun the past day, off season long period southwest swell gracing our shores combined with a fun size west swell.   Southwest is around 2ft @16 today, West swell is around 4-6 @13.   Winds are light north to northwest at the moment - will probably ramp up a bit more from the northwest as the day goes on.   Look for an increase in north winds over the next few days as high pressure builds and the storm track heads to the north.  Large NW swell tomorrow - 12 to 14 ft at 13 seconds as south fades.   Size quickly drops Sunday, 7-9 ft at 12 and then ramps back up for Monday to Tuesday at 8-10ft.   Really strong winds Monday and Tuesday from the north - strongest outer waters and north of Bodega Bay.   So plenty to ride, check your winds.  Cya in the water.   

Tuesday, February 2, 2021

UPDATED FORECAST 2-2

 Fairly mellow week ahead compared to the past few weeks.  Swell is 8@14 sec this morning with southwest to west winds.   Storm from yesterday will continue to pass through the area.   Another shot of rain comes in Wednesday - strongest north of Sonoma, along with northwest winds which will then remain fairly strong until Friday.   Swell will linger in the 5-8 ft range through Friday.   Winds Thursday and Friday might be offshore for AM sessions around the Bay Area, but check first.   Cya in the water.  

Monday, January 11, 2021

ONE MORE LARGE SWELL MID WEEK....

Giant swell from yesterday winding down this morning but still quite solid - 11@15 seconds.  That swell had a peak wave recorded at the SE Papa Buoy  of over 40ft at 18 seconds two nights back.   Tuesday looking for rain and south winds north of Sonoma County (may get rain northwest Sonoma and for sure all of Mendo) and new swell at 10-12 ft @21 seconds.  That swell will peak Wednesday at 13-15 ft @17 seconds.   Swell direction 298-300.  Smallest day in a while looks to be Thursday at 7-9ft, increasing again by Friday.   The N Pac remains active so we do have more large swells on the horizon for mid month and beyond.  Winds will trend south first part of the week due to CA proximity to an atmospheric river hitting Oregon and far N Cal - then switch northwest mid week and beyond - but these will be mostly outer water winds, actual winds near the coast could trend north to northeast (offshore) especially for Bay Area later in the week with high pressure in control.   Plenty to ride, even some manageable days this week for us mortals.   Cya in the water.