Saturday, November 21, 2020

CLEAN CONDITIONS...TRACKING XL SWELL FOR THANKSGIVING

Super clean this weekend with mid period northwest swell around 5-6 ft at 12-13 seconds.  East winds.  High pressure in control for the next week with the storm track along the Oregon border.   Look for an uptick in size for Sunday - 6-7 ft and bigger still for Monday at 9-11ft - then all eyes on mid week as models are forecasting a very large swell to impact our waters around Wednesday.   Early indications are for deepwater swell in the 18ft range north of Bodega Bay, probably 14-16ft around the Bay Area.   With north winds through next week AM sessions should feature clean conditions, while PM sessions will see more wind, maybe onshore at times.   Overall, plenty to ride.  Cya in the water.  

Sunday, November 8, 2020

UPDATED FORECAST - XL SWELL CONTINUES....

XL swell continues today - but down from yesterday's peak at 20 ft @14 seconds!   It's running 12-14 ft at 13 seconds today from 325.  Strong north to northwest winds making a mess of everything except for spots sheltered from the nw winds.  Swell will begin to fade tonight and more so on Monday, dropping to 9-11 ft and then additional fade through Thursday but still staying rideable in the 5-7ft range.   Winds will back down some tomorrow but still be gusty, fade more Tuesday into Thursday.   Storm door looks to open more next weekend and into Mid Nov - with much higher amounts of rain now forecast - so may have a period of junky storm surf with south winds next week.   Until then, plenty to ride.   Cya in the water.  

Saturday, October 31, 2020

UPDATED FORECAST - HALLOWEEN

 Waiting on the next swell train(s) to arrive which will happen tomorrow.  Today should feature mostly short period junky wind swell and probably some north to northwest winds with it.  Winds lighter near shore this morning, so if you had to get wet - now would be the time.  Sunday will start out slow again and then look for early forerunners in the afternoon (mostly Sonoma Coast north), evening Bay Area, around 3-5ft at 23 seconds.  Swell will quickly build Sunday night, period drops and Monday should see northwest swell about 5-7 ft at 18 seconds.   At the same time there is a long period south swell due to show at 2ft @20 seconds.  After today, winds look decent until Wednesday.  Swells should begin to fade on Tuesday but the northwest swell might linger.  N swell direction around 300, S swell around 188.  So should be a nice run of clean long period swells, nothing huge, fun size.   Cya in the water.  

Friday, October 16, 2020

UPDATED FORECAST 10-16

Hope you like the blog refresh - long overdue for an update.   Nice fall day across the area with east winds, warm temps - mid period northwest swell in the water - about 5-6 ft at 11 seconds, steep angle at 325 deg.  North winds going to remain in the picture for at least the next seven days as high pressure remains locked over CA.   Storm track is not very active, but the winds and distant storms enough to keep mid period swells around 10-11 sec coming in.   Maybe an uptick Saturday, but otherwise should stay around 4-6 ft through the period.  Background south swells in the picture as well - nothing over 2ft, but longer periods 14-18 seconds through Monday.   Winds will be better for morning sessions, bit more onshore flow for pm sessions.  Cya in the water.   

Sunday, October 4, 2020

UPDATED FORECAST - MORE SWELL FOR A FEW DAYS....

Sorry about the lack of updates - surfing too much!  Hope you got some over the past week as northwest and southwest swells crossed our shores.  We are starting to see the arrival of swell from Hurricane Marie, which should max out tomorrow through Wednesday at 3-4 ft at 13 seconds (deepwater) from 180.   We also have a northwest Gulf swell in the water at 6ft at 13 seconds from 290.   Marie swell will show late and into overnight and be more present Monday - especially in the Bay Area.  Gulf swell will slowly fade through Wednesday.  Winds look fairly typical for October - light northeast to northwest.   As we head into next weekend looks like a major pattern change will begin to take place giving us badly needed and first rainfall of the season as a low pressure system drops across the West Coast entraining remnants from Hurricane Marie in the process.   Winds should pick up strong from the south late week.   N Pac is going to stay active so look for more swell into October.  Cya in the water.