Tuesday, August 20, 2019

N PAC STIRS.....

Signs of life have begun in the North Pacific.  Low pressure system is dropping south today in the Gulf and will push onshore mid week - BC and Pac Northwest.  Chance of rain very far north - Del Norte/Humboldt as well.   Enough wind is blowing over the ocean to generate some mid period northwest swell - which should roll in late Wednesday (far Nor Cal) and fill in everywhere during Thursday.   Nothing epic mind you, but given the past couple weeks anything will work.  Probably looking at swell 5-6 ft at 13 seconds on Wednesday and 6-7 at 12 seconds Thursday.  Swell dir 290-295.  Late season New Zealand south swell to fill in Thursday and Friday - probably along the lines of 2-3 ft 18-20 seconds.  Northwest winds are going to ramp up again today through end of week.  Strongest over the outer waters and far north.  The South Pacific is definitely showing signs of slowing down for the season, as Down Under moves into spring and we transition to fall.   All eyes for us then turn to the N Pac as September approaches.  Cya in the water.

Friday, August 2, 2019

AUGUST!

One month to go until September 1, which is usually the start of the better waves season around these parts.   We do have some tropical swell mixing in today at 2ft @11-12 seconds - from Hurricane Flossie and some longer period background southern hemisphere swell later in the day.  Windswell still in the water too - short period stuff.  Winds are not ideal - mix of southwest to northwest depending on location - some lighter south winds as well.  Look for the northwest wind flow to pick up as the day goes.  Should be a few places to ride.   Hang in there - relief will be along soon.  Cya in the water.  

Tuesday, July 23, 2019

DOG DAYS.....

Northwest winds, short period windswell.  Late July.   That's what we've got.   Could see an uptick in the windswell mid week - small background south in the water as well but it's going to get ripped to shreds coming around Pt Conception between the wind and north flow moving south.   Good week to get some work done.   Hang in, September isn't too far off.....cya in the water.

Thursday, July 11, 2019

NEXT NZ SWELL IN THE CUE, SMALL NW

Current NZ southwest swell fading today, but still decent at 3ft 15-16 sec from 190.  Look for the last in the series starting late Saturday into Sunday/Monday - initially long periods in the 22 sec band late Saturday, then 2-3 ft at 20-21 sec on Sunday.  Size/period fades Monday.  We also have a mid period, off season northwest swell/wind swell running in today and tomorrow - should peak at 4-5ft at 9-10 seconds.   This is from a Gulf Low that has been circulating in the North East Pac for the past week and has finally faded to be replaced by high pressure.  North winds will increase today and into most of next week as the summertime thermal low sets up shop again over the California Central Valley and the gradient pressure difference between the two drives the wind.  Cya in the water.

Saturday, July 6, 2019

NEXT NZ SWELL INBOUND, HURRICANE SWELL FADES

Swell from Hurricane Barbara topping out today - 2-3 ft at 12-13 seconds from 180.   Secondary NZ swell is in the water as well - 3ft at 15-16 seconds from 200-210.  Bigger NZ swell is en route for late tomorrow and will come in 2ft at 20-21 seconds from 210.    This swell will peak Monday and Tuesday with size about the same - 2-3ft at 18-19 seconds.  Not much relief in the northwest winds, especially north of Jenner until the start of next week as high pressure moves more over CA and reduces the pressure gradient.   Until then, pretty strong northwest winds expected, perhaps a touch lighter near the Bay Area.   Plenty to ride for sure, just need to find some shelter from the winds. Cya in the water.