SEPTEMBER 1!

Welcome to the 2026/2027 good wave season!  You made it through another summer.   One of the stronger south swell seasons i  can remember and it's not nearly over yet.  We have three named storms in the East Pacific/Central Pacific Basin.  Hurricane Katrina, TS Marie and TS Lowell.  Folks in Hawaii will be keeping an eye on Lowell for weather and surf impacts.  West Coast is already seeing some swell from Karina at 2.8 to 3 ft at 11-12 sec from 155-175 degrees.  Swell will build through the week as the period increases and swell period moves into the 14 sec band.  Some background swell from Lowell will fill in as well, but just reinforce the existing tropical swell in the water.  Towards the weekend we have another New Zealand Southwest swell coming in which will boost things further.  That swell will top ou at 2.8@16-17 sec from 200-205 degrees.  We do have weather coming in from the Gulf of AK for points north of SF into the Pacific Northwest.  Heavy rains for Seattle, Oregon, NW CA.   The dividing line for measurable rain will likely be Santa Rosa north.  No swell of interest from these weather systems as the jet stream is plowing north to south carving out a deep trough sandwiched between high pressure west of Hawaii and another high in the Desert Southwest.   Winds look pretty decent all week as the low takes over the region.  Will fluctuate between light south and light north/north west most of the week.  Plenty of surf on tap, cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST 8-25 - East Pacific Gets Busy

 Small south swell rolling in - 2-2.5ft@13-14 seconds from around 180-190 degrees.  Watching the E Pac right now as we have a number of disturbances including Tropical Storm Iselle which is taking a north/northwest track and should send a decent pulse of tropical swell to CA mid week on.   Will fill in later this week in Nor Cal.  Probably 3ft@11-12 seconds, but some longer period energy rolls in in advance in the 17 sec band.  Behind that, tracking some additional disturbances including more from Down Under.  Winds look decent this week, fall is knocking on the door.  Cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST 8-17

 What appeared as a rather insignificant south swell on the models a week or so back turned into a nice size south over the weekend, which is continuing today.  Buoys still showing deep water heights around 2.5 - 3ft @15-17 seconds from 190-200.  Swell will begin to wind down tomorrow, but still have some energy now and then at south facing spots.  There is another NZ swell inbound for Wednesday/Thursday, models might have this one under sized as well, we will see as it comes into range.  For now - expecting deep water heights around 2-3 ft @ 15-17 seconds from 195-200 deg.  Nothing on the books yet from the N Pac.  Waiting for fall to start.   There is a vast pool of warm water throughout the Pacific right now,  a very strong El Niño continues to build and from all indications will rival or surpass the strongest El Niño events on record.  What that means for our weather in CA and beyond, remains to be seen once fall rolls into winter.  No two El Niños are alike, but the biggest events tend to bring a lot more precipitation into CA and the Southwest.   All will be revealed soon enough!  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 8-13

Still not much change in the short term, northwest wind swell, small background south swells through the week, winds are variable depending on location.   Waiting on the N Pac now to wake up and if you look at the satellite coverage over the Pacific Ocean plenty of activity is starting to swirl from east to west and north and south of the equator.  Potential tropical storm will impact Hawaii this weekend, taking a course directly over the Big Island through the chain.   Still tbd on how strong the winds will become, but anyone on the Islands should be monitoring closely.   It does look like we might see a better shot of Southern Hemisphere swells next week as that area is busy again with storms.   But overall, bit of a quiet week again, get some things done!  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST - 8-3

 August!  One month to go until the start of the "good" waves season, especially in Nor Cal.   South is taking a pause after another lengthy run of both hurricane & southern hemisphere swells.   Quite the season we've had due to El Niño from the southern region.  To start the week we have large northwest wind swell - 12-14ft@ 9-10 seconds hitting, biggest SF to the north.  This will gradually wind down into the week as will the northwest winds that created the swell.   By Friday, winds will begin to increase again.  Small south swell later this week, but otherwise nothing much from the southern region for the next 10 days.   Pattern down under is re loading and will probably get quite active again as head into mid August.  So, good time to get some shit done.  Cya in the water.