Sunday, June 2, 2019

JUNE!

Fog at the coast, warm inland.  June.  Look for more fog than usual (if that's even possible in Nor Cal) this summer due in part to the very cold ocean temps.   Ideal for fog creation as northwest winds blow over the open ocean.   Today, winds have reversed to a south to southeast flow.   Swell is a mix - fading south, windswell and later incoming Central Pacific South swell.   Fading swell is around 1.5 to 1.9 at 14 seconds, windswell 4-6 at 9-10 seconds.   The Central Pac swell should come in later around 2ft at 17.  This swell will be our primary swell for the next few days, sticking around through Thursday as a reinforcing shot comes through Tuesday.  Swell direction will be focused about 190-197 degrees.   Winds look to stay strong northwest over the outer waters through the extended period, but near shore with the fog and local eddy's could see lighter winds from the south.   Highly variable so check the wind links on this page before you venture out.   Water temps are cold - 48 north of Bodega,  around 53 SF.   Cya in the water.  

Tuesday, May 21, 2019

LARGE WEST SWELL INBOUND....UNSETTLED LATE MAY CONDITIONS....

If you've been keeping track, we've actually had measurable rain now in CA for almost seven months.  Pretty crazy.   Large surf and a lot of wind is on tap for the rest of the week as swell trains roll in from  low pressure anchored in the Gulf of AK, rotating spokes of energy at CA every few days.   Look for deepwater swell Wednesday 15-16ft at 12 seconds, gradually fading through the weekend but hovering around 8-10ft with howling northwest winds through the period.  That will tumble water temps again!   In short, plenty to ride if you know where to look and can get out of the wind.  Cya in the water.

Tuesday, May 7, 2019

STRONG SW SWELL PEAKING TODAY.....

Deepwater swell is 3.5 at 15 from 195 - quite solid this AM.   Current swell is peaking today and will have a gradual fade into the back half of the week.   Meanwhile, a new northwest swell and another round of southwest swells will move in.   The northwest will come in for Wed/Thurs and the long period forerunners of our next southwest swell will start to show late week, into Saturday, then getting pretty solid for Sunday/Monday.   Good run of waves for sure and the southwest swell should stick around until mid month.  Winds look light today, variable depending on location from southwest winds to north winds.  Stronger north winds tomorrow as high pressure builds in, but then fading wind speeds into the weekend.   The wind pattern is very hard to nail down at present due in part to the deep marine layer and various disturbances passing to our north and east.   Cya in the water.

Wednesday, May 1, 2019

UPDATED FORECAST - COUPLE SOUTH SWELLS

Southern Hemi swells hitting this week.  Today you'll find deep water swell around 2ft at 14-15 secs from 190.   Stronger south swell is forecast for this coming weekend - building Sunday at 2ft @18 sec, peaking Monday/Tuesday with deep water swell 3ft at 14-15 seconds.   Swell direction around 187deg.   Winds are a bit lighter than they've been, but will remain from the northwest given the time of year.   Something to ride at least at the south facing spots.   Cya in the water.  

Thursday, April 18, 2019

UPDATED FORECAST - LATE APRIL & BEYOND....

Spring time northwest winds for the foreseeable future.   Very cold water temps with all the upwelling.   Upper 40s north of Jenner.  Mid period northwest swell will continue through the week staying between 5-8ft with periods 11-13 seconds.   Bigger the further north you go.   High pressure is assuming it's place in the northeast Pacific, typical of the season.   I'll keep an eye on the southern hemisphere and update as those swells start working north.   Same goes for anything unusual from the north.   But expect reports to be a bit more infrequent until later in the summer.   Enjoy your Spring and Summer - let's all pray for a good south swell season.   Cya in the water.