Monday, December 28, 2020

UPDATED HOLIDAY FORECAST

Staying pretty large this week as rain and swell roll throughout CA.   We are on the downside of a fairly large northwest swell running at 10ft 15 sec from 290 deg with northeast winds for offshore conditions at most spots.  Swell will wind down just a touch tomorrow - but staying around 9-10 ft at 13 seconds.  Wednesday, the next large swell builds at 8-10ft at 21 seconds - peaking Thursday at 15-17ft from 295 to 305 degrees.  Note all these swells largest north of Pt Reyes, especially the mid week swell which will be shadowed a bit by Pt Reyes and the Farallon Islands.  Mid week swell will do a slow fade into the New Years weekend but stay on the larger side through the period.   Winds are going to be highly variable as we have brief breaks of high pressure and systems coming ashore - so look for south winds as front approaches and north to northwest winds as front passes.  Could see some light offshore winds for AM sessions.   Next chance of rain is mostly North Bay mid week, followed by another storm late week and late weekend.  So the pattern is pretty progressive.  Stay safe out there, wear a mask and cya in the water.  

Wednesday, December 16, 2020

STAYING BIG.....

 N Pac keeps pumping out swell - new swell filled in overnight and is peaking today at around 12-15ft @17 seconds from 305.  Quite solid.  Winds aren't bad in the Bay Area, but rain and south wind the rule north of Bodega Bay spreading south through Wednesday night.   Swell will start to fade some on Thursday - 10-12 ft as period drops to 13 sec.   By Friday, new long period forerunners of our next swell show at 6-8ft at 18 seconds, while the old swell sticks around at 9-11 ft.   Saturday/Sunday should feature high pressure, lighter winds, surf both days around 8-10 ft.   So plenty to ride - after the rain today/tonight - high pressure looks to build in for the rest of the week.   Might see an uptick in northwest winds Thursday/Friday.   Be safe out there, cya in the water.   

Tuesday, December 1, 2020

PUMPING....

 Current swell is 12-14 ft at 17 seconds - mix of wind conditions depending on where you are.   For the most part north to northeast winds.   Swell will gradually fade overnight and be around on Wednesday as a new, even longer period swell starts to run in.   That swell will have early forerunners 2-4 ft at 23 seconds - quickly building to 6-8 ft at 22 seconds Wednesday evening.   Thursday will be large - 11-13 ft at 20 seconds and then being a slow fade into Friday and next weekend.   Swell direction around 290-308 degrees.  All n all winds don't look that bad the rest of the week with high pressure firmly in control.  No rain in sight through at least mid December.  Plenty of surf on tap - cya in the water.