Tracking a large northwest swell for tomorrow - peaked at the Papa Buoy around 12-13 ft @15-16 seconds early this morning. Long period forerunners hitting Cape Mendo Buoy now with 17sec energy as well as early signals at Pt Arena. Swell fills in tonight and will be solid to start the morning tomorrow most likely 8-10ft at 15 seconds. Swell angle 298-302 degrees. Low pressure poised to hit the Northwest and drag a cold front through CA Tuesday night through Thursday - best chances for rain north of Sonoma County again. High pressure builds in strongly as that storm plows into the Great Basin setting up a strong offshore wind event - typical of our Fall - into the weekend with north winds and a big jump in the northwest wind swell - peaking around 10ft @10 seconds Thursday into Saturday. Fall is here. Cya in the water.
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