Tuesday, October 17, 2023

XXL SWELL INBOUND, UPDATED FORECAST 10-17

 Solid northwest swell around today - 8-9ft @14 seconds from around 290 - biggest north of Jenner.  All eyes to mid week when swell from Extra Tropical Storm Bolevan builds in.  Forerunners after dark on Wednesday - 5-6ft @22 seconds from 295deg - jumping up quite quickly on Thursday to 13-14ft@18 seconds.  Then a gradual fade into the weekend.   Weather looks to cooperate for the most part as we have high pressure overhead and forecasted north to offshore winds.  Not sure the models are doing a good job of picking up on the locally dense fog in spots which will affect vis and wind direction - so worth keeping an eye on.   Winds will drop next Saturday, along with swell size.   Pattern changes back to low pressure overhead and slight chance of rain next weekend with a better chance the following week.   Cya in the water. 

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