Storm system about to come onshore early this morning with some mid period swell behind it for Tuesday into mid week. Winds have turned to the south/southeast and will blow from that direction until trough passage later tonight. Winds will turn strongly from the northwest for Tuesday/Wednesday. Small south swell in the water right now at 2.6@14 seconds. Northwest Gulf Swell will build in quickly on Tuesday - 6-8@15 seconds from 319 (steep angle, Bay Area will be heavily shadowed) - followed by another pulse of swell mid week with a better angle (305 deg), deepwater 9-11 ft @13-14 seconds. Winds will remain from the north to northwest until Friday, turn southwest with more rain chances headed into next weekend. The northern branch of the jet stream is quite active now and storms are going to ripple through the strong jet all week. No atmospheric rivers mind you, not yet at least, but a strong sign that El Niño is starting to have an impact on storm and swell production in the Pacific Basin. Could be a wild ride once we get into the heart of the winter. Plenty to ride this week, just need to find some protection from the winds depending on the direction. Cya in the water.
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