New shorter period Gulf/Wind swell showing north of Jenner this morning - 8-10ft @9-10 seconds, steep angle - 315 plus degrees. Most of this swell will by pass spots south of Bodega Bay. All eyes to the south as Hurricane Hilary makes its approach. LA has its first ever Tropical Storm Warning hoisted and Hilary will be the first tropical system to make land fall to our south since 1939! But what about swell for Central/Nor Cal? Because the storm is hugging Baja and the strongest winds are on the East side of the system, super steep angled southerly swell will begin to migrate north through the weekend. I'm talking super steep - 150-165 degrees which will miss most of our coast. However, given the size of the storm and sea heights, good south swell spots will no doubt pull in some energy Sunday night through Tuesday morning. How big, hard to say just yet - certainly So Cal will be quite large at times but also very windy/stormy. For us, Monday looks like the best day, deep water potentially going 3-5 ft @ 14-16 seconds. Heavy rain to our south with major flooding looks likely, some potential for rain Santa Cruz north to Pt Arena, but very light amounts. Bigger issue will be potential for thunderstorms and more dry lightening which has sparked a whole host of fires in Trinity, Humboldt and Del Norte counties. Very dynamic period coming up - especially with a low pressure system parked off the West Coast due to move ashore, Hilary and a steering ridge of high pressure to our east. Water temps very warm upper 50s to low 60s - last cold water remnants of La Niña are gone. The Papa Buoy, (600nm from Eureka) one of the offshore buoys has stopped reporting this past week - so NOAA will have to pull and repair at some point. Be a bummer to have that off line as fall/winter starts as it's a reliable indicator of the size of incoming swell trains. Cya in the water!
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