Gale warnings up through Thursday AM as strong high pressure is creating north winds over the outer waters. Have not really seen the buoys respond to the wind swell forecasts, possibly because the heaviest winds are over land. On the horizon we have a long period west/north swell due in and long period southeast swell for the rest of the week. The west swell should be in late Thursday night, Friday - deepwater possible at 2-4 ft @19 seconds - biggest north of Bodega. The south will roll in first late Thursday Santa Cruz south, then Bay Area and further north Friday into the weekend and beyond, couple pulses of this swell coming. Potentially looking at 3 ft @19 seconds, good south facing breaks should be head high plus on sets. We could see the south swell action linger on to around the 7th of Sept. Winds will dial back into the weekend and switch from the south, we also have a early season weather system coming in which will bring rain to far northern CA, with chance amounts down to around Sonoma County. Water temps have plummeted back into the low 50s with all this wind over the past week. Cya in the water.
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