UPDATED FORECAST - WHOA, 21 @18 FROM 295!

Largest swell of the season is roaring ashore this morning.   Buoys are ranging from 21-24ft with super long periods 17-21 seconds.  Not for the faint of heart.    XXL swell should continue right into the weekend - mortal heights probably heading back into the zone Sunday but still quite large for west and north facing beaches.   Winds don't look great until Monday fluctuating between south to southwest to northwest as a series of storms come ashore and pass to the east.   Perhaps some lighter northwest winds Monday.    Not seeing a break in the pattern until late next week when high pressure may return giving us an extended period of calmer weather.   Until then, large surf with highly variable winds the rule.   Cya in the water.