The biggest swell so far of the Fall headed our way starting this coming Friday. Models are forecasting a deep water swell train of 14-19 feet at 16-17 seconds from 302!! We have a change in our weather as well with a series of low pressure systems progd to swing into CA from Thursday thru the weekend. Before then, pretty epic long period energy from Lupit winding down thru tomorrow - well overhead today and clean offshores. Look for a repeat on Tuesday with offshore winds and dropping swell. I think the wind shift will really take shape starting around Thursday night - swinging more to a storm direction SSW as the storm fronts start to knock on our door. As for that upcoming weekend swell - Friday will start large - 10-11ft at 17, Saturday and Sunday - uber large at 18-19 ft at 17, "dropping" some Monday to 15-16 ft at 16. Still big next Tuesday. I will try to dial in the winds and re confirm swell size mid week. Until then, enjoy some clean offshore mornings over the next couple days. cya in the water.
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