UPDATED FORECAST 6-25

 Was back on the East Coast this past week so no report.   Back to it today.   Small South Pacific swells in the water through Thursday this week - about 2-2.5ft @14-15 seconds from 195.   Local northwest wind swell to continue through the week but on the smaller side as the wind machine as let up some over the outer waters.   South Pacific should continue to send up small pulses of swell through the period, but nothing major on the horizon.   July approaches, that's getting into winter in the Southern Hemisphere so we should begin to see some bigger and more consistent swells as the month goes by.   Until then, small surf, not so horrible winds.   Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 6-16

 Not much hope in the short term - we do have a new longer period southwest swell building in the next couple days - impact of that will be best from Santa Cruz to So Cal - maybe deep water heights around 2-3ft @14-17 seconds.   Something to ride on a longer board.    North of SF - it's blown to shreds as the relentless northwest winds continue to plow down the Coast - especially strong from Cape Mendo to Pt Reyes - making sure that any south swell that does make it north gets obliterated before it reaches any of the nooks and crannies in the region.   After this small south which will peak around mid week - nothing else on the charts other than wind and locally generated south swell.   La Niña summer in full effect and not providing us with much to ride.  Summer Solstice coming up this week and then the count down will begin again towards Fall.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 6-9, MORE N PAC SWELL

 New late season swell showing at the far northern buoys this morning - 7-8ft @14 from 295-300.  Swell will build all day and peak tomorrow.   This is from another storm system that followed the first storm last week.  Additionally, south swell in the water - still around 2-2.5ft@14-15sec from 210-215.   Northwest winds are blowing hard and gales are forecast for the next few days in the outer waters, some inner waters north of Jenner.  Water temps remain cold - upper 40s north of Bodega Bay, low 50s SF south.   The New Zealand storm corridor is active and we will see bouts of southwest swell from this area most of next week - nothing large - staying around 2ft @15-16 seconds with a 210-215 deg direction.  Northwest winds will howl all week so don't look for calm conditions anytime soon on the North Coast.   Large windswell will result most of the week.  The wind and swell will make a mess of these small souths coming up the Coast, and knock size down - especially once they move past Santa Cruz.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 6-2, LATE SEASON STORM

 Abnormally strong atmospheric river type system hitting the Pacific NW today and will drag a cold front through the northwest part of CA tonight through Monday.  Rain line will be about as far south as the Sonoma Coast.   Maybe a few sprinkles in Marin.   Relentless northwest winds will ease tonight, but then ratchet back up on Tuesday.   Small south swells in the water, overlapping the next few days - deepwater swell around 2-3 ft from around 180-185.  We will see a big jump in swell heights Tuesday through Thursday, inbound swell from the storm that came through.  Biggest days are Wed/Thurs - 10-12ft @11-13 seconds.    Otherwise, seas will be on the rise from all the winds coming in Tuesday through Thursday which will pick up the northwest windswell again for mid week.  Not tracking any major south in the week ahead - just wind and large-ish windswell.   Water temps are quite cold - seasonally so - low 50s SF and Santa Cruz - 48-50 north of Bodega Bay.   Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 5-23

 Hope you got some of the back to back southwest swells this week - most spots from Santa Cruz south faired best - Nor Cal was blown to bits with heavy wind and seas.   Swell winding down now and the weekend doesn't look all that grand unless you like northwest wind and swell.   That is pretty much all we have for the next 4-5 days with some background southern swells.   There is a new storm forecast to form Down Under near NZ over the weekend - that will send swell up by next weekend.   Happy Memorial Day and cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 5-15 - SOUTH PACIFIC STIRS......

Foggy morning on the CA Coast as summer like marine influence has set up shop.  Fading south swell and decent size north wind swell in the water.  High pressure is going build into the NE Pac/Northwest this week and the result will be strong northwest winds and large wind swell - mostly influencing conditions north of Pt Reyes through next Sunday.   Strong winds - 25-30 kts with gusts to 40 kts possible Thursday to Sunday over the outer waters.   Expect 10-14ft wind swell to develop by Friday - and this will take the piss out of the New Zealand swells on the move up especially SF north - Santa Cruz should fair nicely.  We have 3-4 swells coming up, nothing huge, but decent long period stuff from a favorable corridor Down Under with swell directions in the 210-215 window.   Probably looking for 2-3 ft deep water at 15-19 seconds starting Friday and going through Sunday.   As noted above, due to the strong northwest winds and large northwest wind swell, as these swell round Pt Conception and Pt Reyes they will degrade some as they arrive to central and northern CA.   Still, swell should be fun size at summer breaks.   Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 5-4 - Not a lot of hope.....

 Heavy rain and wind in Nor Cal right now - especially north of Marin County as a strong late season storm makes its way onshore.   Surf is very small - from either direction  - and the winds aren't cooperating either.  This trend of small south swell in the background will continue through the next week with maybe a bump up by mid week - especially for Santa Cruz and points south.   For Bay Area/North - look for in increase in northwest/mid period swell Sunday night into the first part of this week - swell from the current storm coming in.   Deepwater will probably go 7-8ft @12 sec - biggest Bodega Bay to the north.   Issues will be the spring time winds - once the front clears the northwest winds will come roaring back through the entire coming week.   Water temps are very cold due to all the wind - around 49F SF and 46F up on the Mendo Coast.   We are really waiting for the South Pac to open for biz, but with the transition underway from El Niño to La Niña - pattern is a bit stagnant.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATE FORECAST 4-26 - STAYING SMALL

Weak front moving through Nor Cal/Bay Area this morning bringing some light rain to the region.   Northwest winds are really going to ramp up later today behind the front with gale force winds over the outer waters forecast.   Small background south swells have been the case all week, and will continue - should see an up tick in northwest windswell over the next two days and a mid period northwest swell is forecast to come in at 4-5ft @14 seconds, but likely to just blend in with the northwest windswell dominating the nearshore waters.   Not seeing much change or improvement over the next seven days - background south to continue, strong northwest winds and localized windswell the rule.  In other words, Spring time!    Unsettled weather looks to continue on and off, with some light rain now and then, especially north of Bodega Bay.   Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 4-18 - FIRST DECENT SOUTH OF THE SEASON

 Early season south swell showing strong this morning and will peak later today.   So Cal deepwater a solid 4.5@17 from around 185-190 - Nor Cal is 3-4@17 from similar angle.  Winds will stay down for the next two days before turning stronger northwest again for the weekend.   Another pulse of south will fill in over the weekend, smaller than our current swell at 2@17 from 200-205.  Because this swell formed further east of New Zealand, good angle of approach for many spots in CA and sets at times might be bigger.   Go surf, cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST 4-11

Last day of high pressure in control and then winter returns for the weekend.   Storm system will drop down Friday bringing rain and wind, first for far Nor Cal and then moving down the entire State through Sunday.  Mix of swells in the water today, decent size late season northwest swell around 7-9ft at 14sec from 300-305 and some local wind swell around 4-5ft@9-11 seconds.   Will have another shot of swell for the weekend from the current storm now churning in the N Pac and also watching an early season South Pacific swell inbound for the weekend.   Nothing major, but perhaps deepwater around 2@17 sec from 187 or so.  Fairly steep angle.   Winds will be tricky over the next three to four days.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 4-5

Storm system moving through CA this morning dumping heavy snow in the Sierra as well as local mountains in Central/Nor Cal.   Storm is moving south and east today and will exit tonight.  Behind it, strong north to northwest winds are howling as high pressure fills in.   Large, steep angle northwest swell has filled in - 15-17 ft @13 seconds from 310 far northern areas - showing 11@12 from 300 all the way down to Pt Conception.    Winds will remain strong all day, fading some for Sat/Sun and then ramping back up from north next week as high pressure builds further, temps warm and we get a good shot of Spring weather.   Beyond the weekend - surf will stay small to mid size with a mix of smaller mid period northwest swells and some chunky wind swell from all the wind scheduled to blow.   I   won't say winter is over yet, but the pattern is certainly slowing down as we move into the 2nd week of April.   Good chance we see some weaker systems on and off for the next month or two as the N Pac still has some decent energy in place.    Not tracking any systems from the Southern Hemisphere for the upcoming week.  Cya in the water.    

UPDATED FORECAST 3-30

 Another round of winter storms impacting the state - last in the series moving through So Cal today and exiting the region.    Behind the low pressure, high pressure will quickly build in and bring strong north winds for the next few days down the coast, further tumbling water temps in the process which are hovering around 50 in far Nor Cal and about 53 Bay Area.   Pulse of west swell is in the water around 8-10 ft @12 seconds from 280 degrees.  North to northwest winds all week, it will feel more like spring as well.   Next chance of rain appears to be late next weekend, but very light amounts.   Don't think we are quite done with the rainy season so expect some April showers.  Swell will gradually fade into mid week, with a very small south swell mid week as well - likely 2 ft @14 sec, and probably lost under all the chop from the upcoming winds.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 3-24

 Storm system sweeping through and out of CA today as winter keeps rolling on.   Expect a couple more systems to come in for the upcoming week, especially Central CA to Oregon border.  Steeper angle northwest swell in the water at 9-10ft@12 sec from 300.  Biggest north of SF.  Northwest winds will really ramp up today as the front moves out - winds 15-25knots gusting to 30 knots.  Lighter northwest winds Monday/Tuesday, then turn southwest ahead of a weather system for Wed/Thurs.  Swell fades into tomorrow then a pair of west swells come in for Tuesday and Wednesday, getting XL by Thursday when we push back up to 14-16ft.  Biggest swell north of SF as usual.   No south swell in the water this coming week but keeping an eye on storm activity in the Southern Hemisphere.   Plenty of waves, check your winds and cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST 3-18

 Mostly light winds this week as high pressure remains in control through today.   Starting tomorrow and into mid week, high will push off to the east as the N Pac and Jetstream begin to re organize, bringing wet weather back to the West Coast starting Thursday for parts north of Sonoma County, and Bay Area Friday into Saturday.   Cooler temps will accompany a series of systems.   Surf wise, it's staying small for the most part - smaller long period northwest swell rolls into tonight into Tuesday - 2-4@18 sec - fattening up some for Wednesday, around 5ft @15 sec - this is deepwater swell.   Small early season south swell in the water Wednesday and Thursday - at 2ft@17 seconds.   Little tease from Down Under.  Winds turn more southwest for Thursday/Friday once the rain starts up.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 3-13

Storm track is pulling off CA - should give us a break for the next 7-10 days, as high pressure builds in over the NE Pacific, with low pressure in the Desert Southwest - forming what weather experts call "a rex block pattern" which is a very stagnant set up.   N Pacific still active but most of the energy now moves west of the Dateline.   XXL swell is hitting far Nor Cal this morning - buoys were 15-17ft @15 seconds from 305 degrees. Much smaller Central and So Cal - around 8ft@13 sec.   North/offshore winds will ramp up on Thursday due in part to the gradient difference between the low/high pressure - swell will gradually wind down into the weekend and winds will become much lighter Sat/Sun.  For sure looking like a springtime set up.   Get it while you can.   We do have some activity Down Under from the Southern Hemisphere - but much of that energy will focus on So Cal and Santa Cruz - and pretty small for the most part.   El Niño is fading, La Niña on the horizon for late year into next year - but it will take a while for all the energy created by this strong El Niño to dissipate - so some swell production in the N Pac into April/May very likely.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST FOR MARCH 7TH

Looking a lot like an early Spring pattern setting up.  Northwest winds are howling from about SF to Pt Arena. The ocean is responding accordingly with rising, large, short period wind swell and tumbling water temps due to upwelling.  The good news, short lived blow today, should ease off tomorrow (a bit).   Wind waves today north of Bodega/outer waters - 12-14ft, with a very small northwest swell lost underneath at 3-4ft @13 seconds.  Northwest winds 25-30 kts.   Wind drops to 10-15kts tomorrow as a new, mid period northwest swell comes in - but only at 4-6ft @14 seconds.  Rain returns Saturday - mostly north of SF - and will last through Monday.   Southwest winds will be on the rise Saturday/Sunday into Monday - making a mess of things.  Large Northwest swell steams in on Sunday at 12-14ft - but doubtful anything will be manageable with the wind except perhaps for Central Cal and further south.  Swell angle on most of this energy is going to be pretty steep - 300 plus degrees.   Enjoy a couple days of sun and then it's back to the wet this weekend.  Cya in the water.  

MARCH 1

 March 1st is historically the end of the "good" wave season in Northern/Central Cal.   This March, all bets are off - right now we have a macking swell inbound from a huge area of low pressure sitting and spinning in the Gulf of Alaska - which will bring the well advertised heavy snow event to the Sierra and most all higher elevations of Northern California.   Expect to see accumulations of snow even at lower elevations - below 500ft late tonight and Saturday.   Few flakes at sea level possible north of Ft Bragg.  Unfortunately for the inbound swell - brutal sw to west winds are tearing things up, so don't expect it to be clean throughout the weekend.  In fact, not really seeing much improvement in the wind through next Tuesday.  Such has been the story this winter as far as surfing goes.   Swell will stay XXL through Sunday, gradually fade into next week.   More rain on the way on and off next week as well.  Wish i  had a better forecast - but that's what we got.   Cya in the water?   

UPDATED FORECAST 2-22

It's been a wild couple weeks and I  for one was not in the water much, just dealing with storm after storm hitting the North Coast.  Finally some nice days, chance to dry out, get in the water and catch some waves.  Surf was mostly fun size today - about 4-6 ft @11 sec from 300 degrees.  New swell is inbound for Friday/Saturday - deep water 8-10ft @14 sec on Friday, gradually fading into Saturday and then another long period northwest swell runs in Sunday, 4-6@18 seconds which sticks around until Monday.   Winds look good through Sunday - light northeast to southeast.   Nice weather for the most part, but then things begin to break down again starting next week - probably about mid week on as the jet stream will once again take aim at CA.   Larger swell also comes in Tuesday at 12-14 ft, but by then the northwest winds will be chugging over the outer waters and potentially near shore making a mess of things.  For now, nice reprieve for a few days, some decent conditions and fun surf.  Cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST 2-10

 High pressure overhead for a few days giving us a welcome break from last week's storms.  Don't get too comfy, as the long term forecast is now showing another potentially impactful series of storms/atmospheric rivers to hit from Feb 17-23.   More on that by the middle of next week.  Surf wise, lingering northwest swell around today - 6-7@12 seconds.   New west swell builds tonight and will be nicely solid Sunday with deepwater at 8-9ft@17 seconds.  Swell direction around 296 deg.   That swell will slowly subside but linger until about Wednesday of next week.  Winds look pretty light through next Wednesday as well.  Good time to get wet if you've been out of the water for a while due to the weather.   My sense is by next Thursday things will rapidly start to deteriorate as the storm door opens and we get hit with another El Niño infused group of storms.   El Niño is on its last legs and we will start to transition back to La Niña by mid spring - but until then, plenty of energy out in the Pacific for the Jetstream to work with.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 2-1, NO SURF FOR YOU!

 In between atmospheric rivers at the moment - strong storm came ashore early Wednesday am packing very strong winds and torrential rain in spots.  Swell has come in behind the storm - running about 14-17ft from 280 degrees.  It's going to stay on the large side through the weekend, very messy with the winds blowing strongly from the south/south east for the most part until next Tuesday.   Chance of rain next couple days and then the 2nd atmospheric river comes in Sunday into Monday.  This one will take a bit more southerly track - so SF, Santa Cruz and points south will see the greatest impacts.  You might find a few moments over the next 5-7 days at certain spots depending on winds, rain, swell - but it sure doesn't look pretty!   Cya in the water.