Storm track is pulling off CA - should give us a break for the next 7-10 days, as high pressure builds in over the NE Pacific, with low pressure in the Desert Southwest - forming what weather experts call "a rex block pattern" which is a very stagnant set up. N Pacific still active but most of the energy now moves west of the Dateline. XXL swell is hitting far Nor Cal this morning - buoys were 15-17ft @15 seconds from 305 degrees. Much smaller Central and So Cal - around 8ft@13 sec. North/offshore winds will ramp up on Thursday due in part to the gradient difference between the low/high pressure - swell will gradually wind down into the weekend and winds will become much lighter Sat/Sun. For sure looking like a springtime set up. Get it while you can. We do have some activity Down Under from the Southern Hemisphere - but much of that energy will focus on So Cal and Santa Cruz - and pretty small for the most part. El Niño is fading, La Niña on the horizon for late year into next year - but it will take a while for all the energy created by this strong El Niño to dissipate - so some swell production in the N Pac into April/May very likely. Cya in the water.
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