TS Fernanda, TS Greg and more southerly swell

3.0 at 17 from 160 today - steep angle of approach - but some spots are bringing sets in.  This swell is from a storm that formed off Chile around Aug 7th.  Winds are lightest at protected breaks.  Tropical Storms Fernanda, Greg are tracking in the East Pac.  Fernanda is moving wnw towards Hawaii - could see some swell from her over the weekend.  Greg just became a TS today - tracking off the Mexican Pacific Coast.  Forecast to move out and wnw under Baja later in the week.  Not quite in our swell window just yet - but he may move into it by the weekend.  Definitely keep an eye on these two storms - most forecasters dont pay much attention to swells from tropical storms/hurricanes in the East Pac - but they do get in here (as Eugene did a week or so back).  They can have some good punch given their closer distance to our coastline.  More by Friday - keep an eye on the winds - might be light the next two mornings - with coastal fog.  Waiting for the North Pac to really wake up and give us a shot of something decent.  cya in the water.

Early Signs, Week Ahead

Long period, small wnw swell from former Typhoon Merbok hitting our shores tonight - around 2ft at 17 from 290-305 - first long period stuff we've seen from the wnw in a while.  Small southwest energy continues - also around 2ft at 14-17 sec.  In the North Pacific, a strong early season jet stream will start pushing fronts into the Pacific Northwest this week - a good sign that we're starting to move towards Fall.  All we need now are for some of these fronts to push into the Great Basin and give us some offshore winds - nothing like that forecast yet, but the pattern is encouraging.  We'll probably see some windswell later in the week from these early season storms.  Fog and onshore winds look to continue this week - protected spots are going to be cleanest.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Been down in LA for the past two days - be glad you don't live and surf here.  Crowds, insane traffic.  It's a damn shame too, Malibu on a good south/southwest is a thing of beauty - just wish i didn't have to share it with 500 guys.  For us, some of this south is making it up - but smaller than So Cal - in the 2ft 14/17 sec range (deep water).  Small northwest swell from Typhoon Muifa around - but in the 1-2ft range.  Onshore winds continue to plague our region.  Fog, cool temps.  Who's ready for that first storm of the year to barrel into the Great Basin and give us some nice offshore winds?  We continue to move closer to September - just grit your teeth and get what you can.  Look for this small mix of swells through Sunday.  Cya in the water.

Run of SW swells ahead - plus more West Pac Typhoon action

A bit warbled but fun shot from the weekend - Hurricane Eugene pushed up more swell than expected Saturday - still some traces around today from the south - but probably just blending in with the incoming new sw swell.  We also have traces of swell from Typhoon Muifa - but quite small and background at best.  We will see a building trend of sw swells for about the next 10 days.  The best days look like Aug 12-16 when we could see some plus size sets at south facing breaks.  We have another typhoon, MERBOK - out in the West Pac - which could potentially send us another small WNW swell (290-300) around Aug 15-16.  A sure sign that Fall is just around the corner with typhoons turning extra tropical.  Winds/ fog - continue to bog the coast down - sw/west onshore winds the rule - lightest in the morning hours.  There are some spots that have been cleaner - but you have to know where to look.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Swell from Hurricane Eugene - showing at 1.8 at 14-17 from 165.  Not many spots will pull that in - but there may be a few.  Winds suck - ssw - fog, onshore - just miserable.  WNW windswell in the mix - and there might be some longer period typhoon swell from Muifa in the mix - but barely noticeable under the wnw windswell.  NO relief in sight from this wind pattern - will remain onshore through the next 7-10 days - maybe some breaks here and there - surf early, know your coastline and you might find something, somewhere, rideable.  cya in the water.

August

August is a transition month for us on the Central/Northern CA Coast.  The N Pac begins to wake up (as it is now with typhoons curving east and headed into the northern latitudes).  By mid month and beyond those of us living in the coastal valleys and hills start to see trees getting some early Fall color, nights and mornings cooler - all positive signs of the change to come.  As for the week ahead - Typhoon MUIFA should send a long period pulse of WNW (285-300) for around Aug 7-14.  May see a few plus sets at north facing breaks.  CAT 2 Hurricane Eugene was 580 miles south of Baja - and if he is to send any swell our way - it would come in around the 8-9th of Aug.  Probably more of a So Cal event.  Background pulses of small SW swell will go through the middle of the month with a lot of storm activity around New Zealand.  I think the best run of SW swell will be around Aug 11-17 - so i'll update on that later.  Winds are still an issue - as a trough of low pressure continues to stay offshore - keeping the onshore push going.  No real relief in sight at the beaches this week.  Best bet is to check early and you might find something rideable.  September 1 is gonna be here before we know it.  Until then - enjoy August, look around, notice the subtle changes and i'll cya you in the water.

Weekend Forecast and beyond....

I'm off to Ireland later today - so won't be updating this forecast until next Wed or Thurs.  NW Windswell is the primary source for surf through the weekend.  Today the windswell is actually decent size 8ft plus - but winds are hacking it up at most spots.  Small pulses of west/northwest groundswell and a new south/southwest groundswell fill in the background.  Winds continue to be the issue - and will fluctuate back and forth between onshore and northwest.  Lightest winds will probably be found early mornings - but dont expect super clean conditions.  You'll probably find shoulder to head high waves at northwest facing breaks - small at protected breaks.  Good luck hunting.  Dont think i'll be getting any surf in Ireland either - as late July for them is much like late July for us - only it rains a lot more.  cya in the water.

Oh so subtle signs of change.....???

Small northwest swell showing late today - 2.2 at 14 from 285.  Windswell hanging around too.  Former Typhoon Ma-on has kicked up a very small northwest swell that may roll in here around Wed/Thurs (shoulder to head) of next week and perhaps a bit bigger push of north swell behind that - late Thurs into Friday (shoulder to head high +).  As we're moving towards the end of July and early August - it's not unusual to start seeing small pulses headed our way and this is a positive sign.  Next decent run of anything from the southwest looks like the first week in August.  More on that over the next few days.  Winds still remain an issue at the coast - south to southwest - forecast to change back to west/northwest over the next couple days.  As always this time of year - surf early.  Cya in the water.

Meager offerings for the Weekend

Windswell and small background southwest swell.  That's all we get.  West to southwest winds as well - so not sure how clean any spot will be.  Best bet is to surf early and maybe you'll get lucky.  cya in the water.

Old School Shred

Hot Generation from Mollusk Surf Shop on Vimeo.

Week Ahead -

Small southwest swell filling in this afternoon - 1-2 ft at 17 sec from 230.  Mix of north windswell underneath.  Was actually pretty clean and fun this morning.  Fog is rolling in right now as we have a low pressure trough dragging across the northern part of the state.  Keep the small southwest swell in the picture most of the week - but the key word is small.  Might see an uptick in the size of the windswell from Wednesday on.  You might find mornings best for wind - and northwest wind will certainly pick up as we go through the week.  Hang in there - it's mid July - change isn't too long from arriving - hunker down and be happy with what you get.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Outlook

Decent run of back to back southwest swells will end over the weekend - and miserable onshore winds will continue at most spots through the period.  No warm up really in the cards for us until perhaps mid next week - and only then modest warming inland.  Background south swell and nw windswell over Sat/Sun - staying small - waist to maybe chest high.  We have another run of southwest swell lining up next week - but this event will be much smaller than this past weekend due to shadowing from New Zealand as the storm developed and evolved.  Deepwater swell this AM wasn't looking horrible - 3.2 at 17 from 175 - however, a bit on the inconsistent side.  Have a good weekend - as always - surf early this time of year and you might find conditions a bit "cleaner." cya in the water.

Week Ahead -

Good size south/southwest swell filling in - 2.8 at 17sec from 195 +.  Swell should peak later today and stick around through Wednesday.  Should be some background south swell through the remainder of the week and then all of next week - more southwest swell due.  Winds/fog will continue to be the fly in the ointment.  Just lousy weather at the coast with mostly onshore winds.  You might find a few spots protected - if you do there will certainly be something to ride.  Northwest windswell remains in the picture as well - no groundswells on the horizon from the North Pacific at this time.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

New southwest swell just starting to show - 2ft at 17 from 230 - look for a building trend through the weekend - and then another sw swell to roll in early next week.  The 2nd swell should be a bit larger.  Fog, onshore winds will continue to be an issue at the coast - probably through next week - as high pressure has moved off and has been replaced by an upper level trough over the  northwest.  This will keep temps cool coast side - and in many cases those of you at the coast won't even see the sun. June/July gloom - pretty typical.  Not watching much else right now - the N Pac is asleep - except for our summer windswell.  There is a tropical depression down by Acapulco but it's not forecast to enter our swell window when it gains strength.  With this pattern in place - best bet is to always surf early, check the winds.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead -

Not much to speak of for the rest of the week - windswell is the primary source of surf waist to head high at times, onshore winds the rule.  The next shot of anything interesting appears to be around July 11-12 - when a pair of southwest swells begin to roll in.  I'll update that by the weekend.  Until then - good week to get caught up on stuff.  You won't be missing anything.  Cya in the water.

Holiday Weekend Forecast

Mix of windswell and nw groundswell should keep surf in the waist to head high range through Monday at west/north facing breaks.  Bigger sets certainly possible - as we have deepwater in the 6 ft at 12 range - with some larger surf up north.  Southwest swell is minimal through the period.  Winds aren't that bad, even this afternoon - light onshore right now.  I'd say early mornings will still be your best bet with variable winds forecast - then turning stronger onshore for the PM sessions.  High pressure building from the desert southwest - if it makes it all the way to the coast it should wipe out the marine inversion - however - super tricky to pinpoint - so you might run into patches of fog/low clouds for those morning surfs.  Have a great holiday weekend - cya in the water.

Week Ahead - Rain!

Yep, rain in the forecast for Tuesday into Wednesday as a strong system is dropping down from the Gulf of AK.  Highly unusual - but that's what we got.  Small southwest swell at 2.9 at 17 today - should stick around most of the week along with northwest windswell.  Could see an increase in northwest groundswell (small swell) later in the week.  Winds - mix of onshore to west to northwest most of the week - once high pressure builds in strongly on Thursday/Friday we might see light to variable winds for the morning sessions.  So worth checking how hard it's blowing both mornings.  We will see much warmer temps later into the weekend - just a question of how hot in does get and if it's enough to wipe out the marine layer near the coast.  More on that mid week.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead/Summer Arrives

Summer solstice is tomorrow.  It's going to feel like summer with very hot temps inland and warm temps forecast to make it to the coast, especially Tuesday.  High pressure is moving right overhead - squashing the marine inversion for now - although we'll probably see a return of a strong seabreeze later in the week.  Today and tomorrow, and possibly Wednesday morning - winds might stay light for AM sessions - otherwise - best bet will probably be protected spots as west/northwest winds will likely pick up each day.  Check the winds - very hard to predict the wind flow when we get these type of patterns in the summer - especially with cool water temps still offshore - fog can form quite easily.  Swell wise - northwest windswell to stick around all week - and a new southwest swell starts to show late Tuesday - through Thursday.  Could see some fun waves at south facing breaks mid week.
**I'm out of town Wednesday to Sunday this week - so I won't be updating the report later in the week.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Windswell and fading south swell forecast. Saturday look for south to southwest winds with low clouds and fog. Sunday, high pressure builds to the north and east to ramp up north winds. Fog should clear Sunday but conditions for the whole weekend just don't look that great. Look around and you might find something to ride. Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast -

Windswell on the rise all day - as gale warnings are up in the outer waters.  Should top out in the 8-12ft range at 10-11 seconds on Thursday.  New south swell mixes in for the rest of the week - however i think the size is going to get the piss knocked out of it as it rounds Pt Conception and comes up the Central Coast.  South facing spots will be your best bet - as winds are going to howl from the northwest.  If you know where to look you might find something to ride.  Cya in the water.

June Gloom

This is a good week to get caught up with work, your kids, wife/girlfriend etc.  It's June, probably one of the worst months for surf in Nor Cal - and this week will be no exception.  Background south swell most of the week - maybe a "tad" bigger later in the week - but nothing to get all excited about.  And then we have that famous summer windswell - you know the stuff in the 7-9 second range?  Short period slop.  Northwest winds the rule, fog.  Grim.  However, if you have a longboard, patience and a smile - you might be able to find something to ride at south facing breaks.  Only two more months until September.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Fog and onshore winds will continue all weekend. Our current sw swell is winding down and will be joined by a new sw for Sat/Sun. Look for waist to chest high waves at the better south breaks. Just windswell in the water from the North Pacific. Surf early and check the winds. Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Thanks to the proximity of the storm system that brought us heavy rain yesterday, winds stayed pretty light this AM - in fact blowing east early - with a fun mix of southwest storm surf and north windswell.  Waves will wind down as we go through the afternoon.

Mainly light winds possible for morning sessions this week and look for northwest or onshores most afternoons.  Certainly check the winds early - as things dont look all that bad for June. Only swell of mention will be a decent southwest (205-220) due in here Tuesday through Thursday.  Could see a fun run of waist to head high surf - perhaps a tad bigger at best breaks during the peak of this event.  Also look for some inconsistency with this swell - it's coming from a long way down under.  Not much of anything expected from the North Pacific for the upcoming week.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - More Rain!!

Another late season storm about to roll in - it's going to rain on and off until Monday.  South to southeast winds - small mix of west windswell and south.  Find some place that likes south winds and you'll have small waves to ride.  Cya in the water.

It's going to rain most of the week.....

Rain on and off through the week - potentially heavy rain next weekend.  There is some precedent for this much weather in June - but you have to go back to the 1960s to find it.  Unusual to say the least.  No big warm up or high pressure in sight.  Just on and off rain showers with s/sw/west wind.  There will be swell - mix of northwest and south swell mid week (from fairly extreme angle 175-190) - but you'll have to find some place that likes onshore to south winds to ride anything.  No tan for you.  Cya in the water.

Memorial Day Weekend Forecast

Ongoing mix of west/northwest wind/mid period swell - (right now 5-6 ft at 9-11 seconds) plus a small pulse of south (2 ft at 17).  Another front is dragging through the region with very light rain today north of the Golden Gate.  Winds are southwest/west - and look for a return of northwest winds through the weekend.  Temps forecast to stay well below normal - and it's going to get quite windy on Sunday.  West/northwest swells will keep up through Sunday - with background southern hemi energy.  So, upshot - waves to be had - but you need to find someplace clean to enjoy them.  Cya in the water.

NW Winds, rain, swell

NW winds howling and will do so most of the week.  We have another storm coming in on Wednesday - winds will turn southerly ahead of that front - and then shift back to westerly to northwest - late Wednesday through Friday.  Long period west swell in the water today - 6ft plus at 17 seconds - and we will have another pulse of more southwest swell showing Tuesday - through Thursday.  Not as big as this past weekend - probably in the 2-3 ft range deepwater.  We will continue to see pulses of west/northwest swell/windswell all week - the key will be finding spots clean enough to surf.  Memorial Day weekend looking windy and on the cool side - but more on that late in the week.  cya in the water.

South Swell Update

Probably dont have to tell you there is a big south swell hitting most of CA tonight - plenty of frothing surfers running about.  Spots to our south like Santa Cruz and Malibu are macking.  But like so many (hyped) long period/very southerly swells - up here on the north/central coast it can be a very shifty event.  Because the angle is so steep - 175-180 degrees, some places may be missing the energy completely, or just getting sideband wrap.  Pretty impressive deep water buoy readings as well - 8-10 ft at 17-20 seconds is a big south swell.  Look for this swell to continue through the weekend - and we have a mix of northwest windswell with decent size too.  Conditions aren't that clean - with fog and west/northwest winds - best bet will be protected spots.  Plenty of swell if you know how to look.  cya in the water. 

Winter returns - Mix of North/South swells this week

Very strong late season storm ramping up offshore and about to bring some decent rains to our region starting this afternoon.  Showers will last on and off into Wednesday.  Winds are light s/se right now - but forecast to really blow out of the south later as the front comes in.  We have northwest windswell in the water - 5-6 ft at 10 sec (deepwater).  Look for swell to increase from the south Wednesday - forerunners in the 2-3 at 21 sec range - from about 180.  Many spots will not gather this swell due to the angle of approach - so keep that in mind.  Swell will really start to fill in on Friday/Saturday - Friday look for 4-5 at 17 from 180 - Saturday 3-4 at 16 from 180+.  South on tap for Sunday and Monday - but fading.  At the same time - we'll have a north swell in the water - starting Friday 6-7 at 13 from 298 - continuing through Sat/Sun at 4-5 at 13 from 291.  Winds are going to be highly unpredictable most of the week - varying between south and west/north/northwest.  My advice is to check daily and see what's on tap.  We're in a pretty dynamic weather pattern at the moment and there will be windows for good surf. Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - Stormy

Interesting weather this weekend for Mid May - strong storm dropping down out of Gulf of AK will bring a good shot of rain and thunderstorms Saturday night - through Sunday.  Cold temps forecast as well.  NW windswell will come in with the front - winds probably going to be an issue all weekend - so not sure how clean any spot will be.  Best thing to do is check it early and see what the winds are doing.  System sticks around through next Monday/Tuesday - high pressure rebuilds late next week.  Still tracking a decent southwest swell for late next week - probably late Thursday through Sunday.  Size is still tbd - but if we dont get hammered with northwest winds could see some decent swell.  More on that early next week.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Light north winds this AM - mix of north windswell and small southwest swell in the water.  Look for this mix of swells to continue most of the week.  Best bet is going to be sheltered spots as winds will be a problem most of the week with continued onshore/northwest flow.  By the weekend - a very deep, unseasonably cold low pressure system is forecast to drop down out of the Gulf of Alaska and bring us a chance of rain - and temps will be much cooler by late Friday into Sunday.  I am tracking a pretty significant sw swell for around May 19-22.  A big storm is just getting started east of New Zealand and will track north and east over the next few days with very strong winds.  Most of the energy will hit South America, Central America and Mexico but plenty of swell will make it to the West Coast. More on that late in the week. Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - Lower Your Expectations.....

Waist to shoulder high windswell through Sunday (bigger at north facing breaks, head +)  - with onshore winds.  That's what we got.  MAYBE - early mornings will be best when winds are light - but it's not going to be very groovy at the coast.  Fog is going to be on the move in Friday - pretty extensive Saturday - our warm weather of the past two days is pretty much over for now.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

High pressure gave us a decent Sunday - better than forecast with offshore to light winds most of the day at many spots.  Winds have turned weekly onshore this morning as a low pressure system well to our north pushes fog and low clouds to the coast.  Look for cooler weather still on Tuesday then a brief warm up Wednesday with offshore winds forecast and temps in the 70s at the beach.  Wednesday looks like the best day of the week - with more cooling expected for Thursday through next weekend. Surf remains small - 1.6 at 12 from 310 (deepwater height) and 1.3 at 14 from 180.  Look for surf to pick up Wednesday as a new nw swell fills in - shoulder to overhead sets at northwest facing breaks.  That swell will linger into Thursday, fade Friday.   Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - ugh

Well Spring is finally upon us.  Water temps around 49 - steady nw winds and meager swell offerings.  We do have some north windswell in the water - at around 7-9 ft at 10 sec from 280+.  No south to speak of. There is a CHANCE winds turn a bit more offshore over the weekend as high pressure strengthens over the region - best bet is to check it early when the winds will probably be the lightest.  Windswell pretty much the rule this weekend - and actually fading after Saturday.  Really nice weather with sunny skies - so that's at least something.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast & Rip Curl Search Comes to SF

The Rip Curl Search comes to Ocean Beach this November.  Let's all hope for 14 ft at 17 seconds or so - since they've indicated the pros won't get PWC assist out to the line up.  Should be fun to watch Slater, Parko, Fanning and the boys paddle out.  Until then - we have rain, we have onshore wind and we have some small swell in the water as our soggy spring continues.  SW swell is hanging around but fading.  North windswell at 2.4 ft at 10 from 285.  Look for a bump up in north swell Tuesday into Wednesday with shoulder to head high surf at north facing breaks.  Another pulse of north swell rolls in Friday which will probably keep up through next weekend.  Similar size - perhaps a touch bigger.  Northwest winds all week - lightest in the mornings - so it's not going to be very clean.  Maybe early mornings are the best bet.  It looks like we'll finally see warmer temps next weekend as the storm track shifts north and high pressure begins to build in along the West Coast.  Cya in the water.

Mix of south and small northwest for the weekend....

South swell showing 2.5 at 14 from 195 - small pulse of northwest swell at 2.8 at 11 from 290.  The winds are the issue - been blowing west to northwest all day messing everything up.  The main energy in the jetstream is just to our north in Oregon - keeping this moist/cloudy airmass around, even though were on the southern extent of the storms.  We have a chance of rain again tonight, through the weekend and on and off again most of next week.  In short, no big warm up, no high pressure (but then again, no HOWLING nw winds either) - just murky weather.  Look for s/sw winds Saturday/Sunday.  The sw swell is suppose to pulse up a bit more over the weekend - northwest swell will probably stay around the same size.  Best bet is to probably surf very early before the winds gain speed later in the day.  Cya in the water.

10,001

Just crossed 10,000 visits today for this little blog.  Thanks to everyone for reading and supporting.  It's much more exciting than our current wind/surf forecast - which is junky winds turning onshore tonight/west Thursday.  There is a nice sw swell running in the 3ft at 15 sec range - but good luck finding some place clean enough to ride it.  Maybe cleaner Friday morning - more on that tomorrow.  Thanks again for visiting my blog.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

**My blog got a facelift - hope you like it.  Photo credits to Hawk (i'll be adding new photos on a regular basis so feel free to send me interesting pics).  Small surf looks the rule most of the week.  Mix of windswell and south/sw swell events on and off through the period.  The southern hemi is getting more active, so you might find something to ride at breaks with a good window to that direction.  I'd recommend a big floaty board too. Winds are problematic all week with a front moving past today and another on Wed/Wed night - bringing another chance of rain.  Check the winds early/surf early/be happy with what you get. Only five months until September.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

On again off again chances of very light rain through Sunday/Monday.  But places south of the Bay Area probably won't see any precip at all - and likely not much past SFO.  WNW windswell the rule through the weekend - pulsing up a bit on Saturday - but staying in the head high (touch bigger at times) at breaks that face northwest.  Could see light morning winds both Saturday and Sunday - so check it early and you might get lucky.  Not much else - it's Spring, it could be blowing 50kts and it's not - so let's all consider ourselves lucky.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Northwest swell filled in last night - deep water is 5 ft 11-13 sec from around 305.  Some bigger energy still moving down the coast and will show up during the afternoon.  Winds are quite light at the moment but will pick up from the northwest as the day goes on.  Should have moderate amounts of northwest swell all week - with deep water heights in the 5-8ft range, head to a few feet overhead at times at breaks with a good window to the northwest.  Two fronts passing through this week - one right now which probably wont give us any rain - and another on Wednesday with a better shot of precip.  By Friday, winds look the lightest for the morning sessions.  Check the winds and surf early - always a good rule in the Spring - and you might get lucky.  I'd like to give a shout out to the Marine Mammal Center - they came out to West Marin last Thursday and rescued a very young seal pup who had lost contact with it's mom.  Hope she/he makes it back to the ocean very soon.  There are many organizations in the Bay Area that provide wonderful service to all sorts of wild animals in distress and most of the people volunteer their time to help. It's a really cool thing about where we all live and surf. cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Mix of NW windswell at 10ft 11 sec from 305 and small south - 1.7 at 17 from 165 this am.  Windswell the dominate source for the next two days.  By Sunday - we might see another shot of west/northwest swell - but smaller than the event that just hit mid week.  Winds are actually blowing east/northeast this am - look for them to shift to northwest later today.  Look for variable winds Saturday morning and then winds shift to wsw for Sunday morning as the tail end of a front sweeps to our north.  Sunny skies, high pressure builds in - cold water (48-49).  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Lightest winds of the week appear to be tomorrow AM.  Large windswell is winding down and that trend will continue through the first part of the week.  Next large swell event looks to arrive Wednesday through Saturday with well overhead to double overhead waves at north facing breaks.  Unfortunately, onshore/nw winds will be the rule most of the week - plus we have a cool weather system coming down bringing a chance of rain from Thursday to Saturday.  Welcome to April.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

NW winds blowing this morning with fairly steep angle northwest windswell.  Look for that windswell to continue through Thursday (perhaps lighter nw winds Thurs morning) and then a couple larger more powerful west northwest swells due to arrive Friday through Sunday.  This will push surf heights back into the overhead to double overhead range at breaks with good northwest exposure.  Friday might have the lightest winds of the next few ways, but models are also hinting at a southerly surge of fog - so check it.  Saturday we have a small storm coming in giving us a chance of rain - and then high pressure builds back in on Sunday.  So, surf on tap for sure - but spring time winds basically - check it daily and know your spots and you might find some waves.  cya in the water.

The Up Side Of A Wet Spring....

Normally we hang our heads low when Spring arrives on our Northern Coast.  Windswell, northwesterly winds, super cold water, south swells at 1.5 ft at 17 sec.  But this year, all this late season rain is creating some sandbars at spots that normally start to go pretty quiet right about now.  So rejoice and go hunting you might just find some nuggets.  I'd also like to give a shout out to Danny Hess, Ashley Lloyd, Gary Hanel and Bob Mitsven.  Great board builders/shapers and i am lucky enough to have a board from each in my quiver.  If you ever get a chance to buy a board made by one of these folks do it - used or new.  You won't be disappointed.  I've been on their boards since late last Fall, changing it up as conditions warrant - just stoked to be catching tons of waves and really enjoying each go out.  As for the rest of the weekend and into early next week - Sunday will feature light winds early - but changing to s/sw late morning as our next (and last!) front arrives bringing rain - mostly from San Francisco to points north.  This will be a light rain event - and move out of here by Monday morning.  Looks like high pressure will take control for most of next week - with temps hitting the 70s by late week - in the inland valleys.  Northwest winds will probably be the rule - but lighter wind speeds - no full force blows.  Swell is going to stay large Sunday/Monday, at north facing breaks, then a gradual fade mid week.  Look for swell to jump back up next Friday through the following weekend.  More on that mid week.  Cya in the water.

29ft at 15 seconds

CA Buoy off the hook today.  Big West coming in tonight from this powerful storm that just roared ashore.  Look for 15-20 ft deepwater swell around here Friday. Fading some Saturday.  West winds (perhaps still some southwest) the rule - for the next 24-36 hours - then we might see a more southerly turn in the winds on Saturday when the next storm comes ashore.  Sunday winds in the AM might be light/variable - high pressure begins to build in next week which may give us a number of dry days - but also probably northwest winds.  Plenty of swell through the weekend.  It's Spring, Orion is setting - but the North Pac isn't done serving up swell yet.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Large swell through the rest of the week - but the winds out of the s/sw are making a mess of pretty much everything.  Another storm comes ashore Thursday - and then possibly yes another Friday into Saturday.  First real break looks like Sunday and then high pressure to finally build in next week for a return to dry weather.  You might find some moments at protected spots - but it's pretty ugly most places.  cya in the water.

3 Boards for Sale

 Board for sale.  Left to right:

Channel Island Even Keel - 6.1 - $350.00

CI Flyer - 6.4 - $300.00

CI Dumpster Diver - 6.2 - $350.00

All three boards in killer shape - i'm making room for some new additions to the quiver.

Post your interest in the comments section with info and i'll get in touch with you.  Comments are moderated and not posted unless i choose to do so - so your email and/or phone number will not be made public.

Wasabi.

Week Ahead

Big storms will continue to roll in through next week. Expect strong winds, large storm surf on and off through next weekend. Winds are going to switch from south to southwest to west/northwest depending on systems as they come ashore. Heavy rain on and off looks the rule. You might find a few windows now and then but otherwise looks like a good week to get some work done. Cya in the water.

Hey Mr Lopez - why screw with Punta Mita?

Report from Punta Mita - shoulder high and getting bigger. Surfed today with "mr Pipeline" Gerry Lopez who locals say is starting a biz down here in Punta Mita - many unhappy locals and for us traveling surfers - be prepared for clowns on longboards and SUPs in the line up with no courtesy towards anyone and very little skill. Thanks Gerry. How about you stay in Bend and try not to destroy the vibe at one of the coolest regions in Mexico. Very uncool. I hope the locals drive you out like they did Terry Sims.

Updated Weekend Forecast

Crazy day yesterday with all the destruction in Japan from the earthquake and tsunami - as well as a fair amount of damage in Santa Cruz Harbor and Crescent City.  I got out in the water around mid day - up in Marin - and it was quite dynamic as the ocean was still feeling the effects of the waves of energy coming from across the Pacific.  Tsunami Advisories are finally over - and we have large back to back wnw swells inbound for Sunday and Monday.  Unfortunately winds look pretty problematic on Sunday as a front is also dragging down from the northwest - should kick up strong se winds.  You might see some light to variable winds on Monday with xxl surf at north facing breaks.  Certainly will be plenty of swell over the next 2-4 days - just check the wind reports and if you know where to go on certain wind directions - you'll have plenty to ride. It's going to be on and off rain chances most of next week as well - so keep that in mind when planning your session.   I won't update this blog from March 16-20 - going down to Mexico to chase inbound early season sw swells.  cya in the water.

Tsunami Warning

8.9 earthquake off the coast of Japan has generated a tsunami due to arrive our shores around 8am -(Ft Point) - be careful and alert. Deepwater height is projected at 2-5 ft but keep in mind this is deep water height and tsunamis are powerful and travel much deeper than the longest period swells. more info as it becomes available

**UPDATE

New wnw swell will get in here tomorrow afternoon - with some rain and light winds.  Probably look for double overhead sets late in the day at north facing breaks.  Friday, winds look light in the AM - and swell will pump up a bit more - likely see double to triple overhead sets at the better breaks.  Again, with light morning winds.  Keep an eye on the winds, know your spots and you'll find some surf.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Onshore/spring time winds the rule for the next five days.  Probably lightest for the AM sesh Wednesday - otherwise - pretty messy at most north facing/west facing breaks.  Main source of swell will continue to be the northeast Pacific - with shoulder to head high + waves (at north facing breaks) the rule until Friday when a bigger pulse of WNW swell is due - at that time we may see deep water swell back in the 8-12ft range.  Small storms forecast for tonight and Thursday - but rain stays mostly in the North Bay region.  Minor chance of rain over the weekend - but it's looking more and more like the storm track is getting ready to pull out of here for the season and retreat to the northern latitudes until next Fall.  Southern Hemisphere is starting to show some early signs of life - but a bit too early yet to really focus on it.  Make the best of what you can get.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Fun mix of SSW swell from our storm this week and northwest windswell - 5ft at 10 from 220 and 4.8 at 12 from 315.  Should be a fun mix at the more protected spots.  Winds today have been light to variable to a touch of south.  Look for light winds again Friday morning, and probably Saturday as well.  SSW swell should fade some on Friday.  But look for size to stay around waist to head high - a tad bigger at times until Sunday - when a new pulse of west swell bumps heights up in the head high to 1ft overhead range at north/west facing breaks.  Weather should be an issue on Sunday as well as our next storm comes ashore with sw winds eventually turning wnw later in the day.  So get on it Friday/Saturday.  cya in the water.

CATCH A WAVE FOR MOLLY from Joe Carter on Vimeo.

From Endless Bummer in NY (and thanks for posting guys).  Really enjoyed this film.

March Arrives - Week Ahead

Well, March 1st is officially the start to the spring surfing season on our north coast.  However, winter is still very much in charge.  Large storm is forecast to roar ashore late Tuesday through Wednesday with high winds and plenty of rain.  In fact south winds look the rule from Tuesday afternoon until probably Thursday when things will turn west/southwest - then perhaps light to variable winds on Friday.  Swell wise - new pulse of northwest swell if filling in tonight - 5-6 ft at 14 from super steep angle - 320 plus.  Swell will quickly top out tomorrow afternoon.  Back to back westerly swells look to come in Wed/Thurs - probably biggest Thursday - with well overhead waves at the north facing breaks.  That swell will drop out quickly on Friday.  Another big storm is due in here next weekend.  So, for the next couple days find spots that like south winds.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - No Snow for you!

Winds kicked around to the northwest this afternoon - mid period windswell the rule for the weekend - overhead at north facing breaks - could still be a sloppy mess as well unless you find some place protected.  Freezing temps overnight - winds might lighten up by daybreak, so worth checking.  The big SNOW was a big hype fest by NOAA and our friends in the national weather service - although if you live in the Santa Cruz or Santa Lucia Mtns - you might see a dusting of the white stuff tonight.  Otherwise - probably looking at a sunny, chilly weekend - with spring time type windswell/mid period swell from a steep northwest angle.  Check it and you might get lucky.  cya in the water. 

Week Ahead - Snowboard Nob HIll

Very cool to surf this weekend in West Marin with snow capped peaks in the background.  If you like cold, snow and wet - then the end of this week could get very interesting - with a very cold low forecast to drop down out of Canada bringing us a chance of snow at sea level Thursday, Friday.  It's happened before during strong La NIna winters - so it will be interesting to watch things develop. Between now and then - small surf pretty much the rule with perhaps northeast winds on Tuesday - then the flow turns onshore Wednesday-Friday as the weather turns cold and showery.  Steep angle northwest swell will pick up from Wednesday on with head high and overhead surf (especially Friday) at northwest facing breaks.  Just check the winds as i think it will be hard to find many places clean.  How i miss those balmy days in January....cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

cold, wet weather to continue through the weekend - maybe a break Sunday.  Back to back, smaller west/northwest swells should be good for head to overhead surf at north facing breaks - smaller at protected spots.  Winds do look light for morning sessions - so might be worth a look.
cya in the water.

STORMY

Was up on the North Coast this weekend - way north - amazing weekend and let's just say conditions on that part of the coast are rarely that sunny Mid February.  It's all come to a crashing stop today - as the first in a series of pacific systems come ashore this week.  At this point - it looks nasty right through next weekend.  There will be periods of good size swell, plus plenty of south winds.  Might see some breaks later in the week with some potential east/northeast winds by Thursday/Friday - but my best call would be to check the winds daily and know which breaks will work on different wind directions.  There will certainly be something to surf each day- you just gotta know where to look!  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

We should have one more morning of decent winds and might get lucky for Sunday morning with light/variable winds.  West swell winding down through tomorrow and then a new, bigger pulse of WNW comes in - pumping things back up in the 6-10 ft range - double overhead at the north facing breaks on Sunday.  After Sunday - low pressure will take center stage pumping waves of showers/rain into California for most of next week.  Much cooler temperatures as well - especially by Friday - and most likely unfavorable winds on and off.  So get out the next two mornings and enjoy - then winter will make a return next week.  cya in the water.

New swell overnight - winds are offshore

New west swell is showing - 6-10 ft at 15-16 seconds.  Bigger further north you go.  Swell will be in here AM - winds should stay offshore.  Look for overhead surf at north facing breaks Thursday/Friday.  Winds look decent for the next few days - our brief Spring time blow has come to an end - but it's a harbinger of things to come my surfing friends.  So make sure to get out and enjoy the good days.  We also have a major pattern change taking shape for next week with rain expected to return as early as Monday - lasting through the entire week if the forecast holds up.  cya in the water.

Feels like Spring, looks like Spring.....

North winds howling offshore - buoys showing winds in the 29-35kt range - steep/short period windswell as a result in the 7-10ft range at a lovely 8 seconds from 330.  Look for winds to continue overnight - and then start to calm down as we move through the week.  In fact we may see a return to light morning winds starting Wednesday and lasting through Friday.  So don't panic yet.  We are looking at back to back small pulses of WNW swells starting late tonight and lasting through Friday.  Nothing huge, probaby in the 4-7 ft range (deep water swell heights) - with a bit more size Thurs/Fri.  By the weekend - and into early the following weekend - high pressure moves off - and low pressure move in - with a decent storm forecast next Tuesday, chance of rain this weekend.  Still way early to call - but something to keep an eye on.  We need more rain and snow in the mountains before the rainy season shuts down - so that is not all together a bad thing.  Keep an eye on the winds this week - know your spots and you might find a few waves here and there.  cya in the water.

North Winds kicking up

quick update - north winds are blowing hard at the buoys offshore and look to continue overnight.  Check winds early - as north facing breaks may be a mess.  Otherwise - fading west swell and short period windswell the rule - along with a small pulse of south - for Sunday.

8ft plus at 14 seconds

WNW swell filling in today - will peak overnight and start to fade some Saturday. Double overhead at north facing breaks today.  Down to 6-8 ft deepwater Saturday morning - and fading further on Sunday.  Weekend looks really nice - light winds/offshore at times.  Doesn't look like we'll have any fog - certainly no chance of rain.  cya in the water.

February - More good weather/waves on tap

Fog hanging around inland and at the coast today - fading west swell at 4-5 ft.  Look for surf to stay small the rest of the week - heading back up Thursday/Friday - which will feature deep water swell in the 6-10 ft range.  Offshore winds will kick up tonight and remove the fog - Wednesday morning should be really good at north facing breaks.  Swell moves in late Thursday and tops out on Friday.  Decent morning winds (if not most of the day) look to continue through the weekend.  Right now no rain is forecast through mid February - long range models are hinting at perhaps a significant pattern change around Feb 12-15 - to a wetter regime - but that's a long ways off right now.  Enjoy another fine run of weather.  February is considered the "last" real month of winter waves in Nor Cal - and with La Nina still in control - we could be in for a very windy, small wave spring.  So get it while you can.  cya in the water.

Back to some rain, onshores this weekend....

Our nice run of high pressure induced offshores - will come to an end Friday through Sunday.  Low pressure currently out in the Pacific will bring rain by Sunday.   Winds will be out of the west on Friday (maybe variable in AM) and then WSW on Saturday and WNW on Sunday.  Deepwater swell will come up again Sat/Sun in the 10ft range.  Surf is on the larger side today at north/northwest facing breaks - 8-10 ft deepwater swell.  Look for surf to fade just a bit tomorrow and then go back up.  cya in the water.

More of the same really......

Surfed out yet?  Well maybe by the end of this week.....Super clean conditions to continue through the end of January.  Offshores, above normal temps and swell.  Current WNW is winding down today - but plenty of size still about at north and west facing breaks.  Slow fade tomorrow before the next WNW winds up to close out our week.  Look for building overhead sets during the day Wednesday - and then double/triple overhead on Thursday into Friday - maybe down a notch on Friday.  High pressure in full control - it's been almost a month without rain and no change expected for the next 10 days.  We have a summer time high pressure dome over us and it's going to take a huge amount of energy to displace.  cya in the water.

12@20!

IT'S MACKING.  Swell has come in big, long period.  Winds are offshore.  Grab the jet skiis and head for the Outer Bars! Ha!  Anything protected will be sick all day.  Tomorrow looks just as big - maybe bigger.  Ditto for Sunday.  Offshore winds look the rule.  Tell the wife/girlfriend you'll see her Monday.  cya in the water.

Winds turned offshore - Big Swell for the Weekend

Quick update and more detail tomorrow - large XXL swell inbound for us this weekend.  Keep an eye on what it does in Hawaii today and tomorrow - extra, extra large for them.  Swell is coming a long way so there will be lulls and early on, very long period stuff.  Looks like the bulk of it hit will hit Saturday/Sunday.  Winds have been very hard to nail - but offshore today and that trend (at least for the AM sessions) should continue.  Warm temps, high pressure, La Nina.  Plenty of swell still around today from our prior event - building long period energy tomorrow.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Complex weather pattern overhead - east winds advecting Tule Fog from the Central Valley into the Bay Area - and n/northwest winds blowing further offshore.  Look for more dense fog the next morning or two - and then by mid week high pressure will grow stronger, and move into the Great Basin which should mix out the junk.  Large west swell charges in here on Tuesday with surf in the double/triple overhead range (10-15ft deepwater) - at northwest facing breaks.  Fading a tad Wednesday, down to 8-12 ft and fades further on Thursday/Friday.  Sheltered spots are probably going to be the cleanest with this weather pattern we're stuck in.  No rain in sight - high pressure in control and looks to stay that way through the week.  Enjoy your day off - cya in the water.

Good Times Ahead - Plenty of Swell

West swell filling in - presently at 3.4 at 14 at 290.  Size will continue to increase through the weekend - with Saturday and Sunday featuring overhead waves - double overhead at times at the north facing breaks on Sunday and into Monday.  The rain is over, and it looks like it wont rain again in the month of January.  La NIna is in full control - and a dry January is very typical of a strong La Nina pattern.  Good for surfers - offshore winds/light morning winds look the norm for the next seven days or more.  The swell machine is positioned out in the West Pacific - low pressure pumping out longer period west swells for the next few days.  So definitely a good time to get some. **UPDATE FOR WINDS - could see some very light west/northwest winds the next couple mornings - so i think protected spots might be cleanest - but certainly check winds in the AM before you go out.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Northwest winds never fully developed at the coast over the weekend and remained well offshore.  Winds this morning are still blowing from the east as a new, long period west/northwest swell fills in at 4-6 ft at 17 from 310.  Conditions should be clean this morning.  We do have a weak weather system moving in for Tuesday into Wednesday with very light rain forecast.  Look for decent conditions all week with small surf on tap.  Next decent shot of swell will be Friday when things will move back into the head to overhead range as a new swell comes in with really fine conditions forecast.  All n all - looks like a nice run of small surf and favorable winds.  cya in the water.

10ft at 17 from 300 - Weekend Outlook

Powerful, long period west/northwest swell charging tonight.  Filled in all afternoon and will peak tomorrow with overhead surf at most spots while top northwest facing breaks will go triple overhead at times.  Winds are still offshore, but i think tomorrow morning will be our last offshore AM for a few days as northwest winds are expected to come up in the afternoon as the ridge of high pressure that has given us all these great days at the beach breaks down and the storm track starts to take a more zonal approach to Northern/Central CA.  No rain over the weekend, but it's in the forecast starting again next week.  Look for our current swell to wind down on Saturday (still size in the AM) and also look for rising short period windswell as northwest winds will blow Saturday/Sunday.  Sunday looks pretty iffy with fading swell, windswell and northwest winds.  We might see a return to offshore winds early next week until the pattern breaks down and rain develops.  So, i'd say get out tomorrow morning and find some place protected on Saturday morning.  Watch football on Sunday.  cya in the water.

Great Week of Surf Ahead

High pressure covers the region - and we'll stay dry right through next weekend.  Look for offshore winds each morning.  Old WNW swell is winding down as a new swell is starting to show way up north.  Look for solid double overhead sets by tomorrow afternoon at northwest facing breaks.  This swell from 285-310 will peak Wednesday with even bigger sets at northwest facing breaks.  Swell will fade a tad on Thursday, as morning conditions remain ultra clean - and then another WNW swell will begin to charge in.  This swell will be a bit bigger, especially on Friday with double/triple overhead sets.  This looks like the best run of weather and waves we've had in quite a while - so get out and enjoy it.  cya in the water.

Papa Buoy 27 ft at 15 seconds - Happy New Year

Papa Buoy peaked last evening - 27 ft at 15 sec - that's Sunday's/Monday's swell inbound.  Winds are east - southeast - with more rain forecast tonight.  Winds should remain east/southeast on Sunday.  Expect double/triple overhead tomorrow at northwest facing breaks as the first significant swell in a while churns ashore tomorrow.  cya in the water.

New Years Weekend Forecast

Current short/mid period windswell will ease into Friday.  Winds are suppose to turn offshore Friday morning - but not sure that will completely happen.  Still have a good push of northwest flow in the upper atmosphere.  Saturday looks like a better bet for really clean offshore conditions and a new west/northwest swell on the rise late in the day.  Looking for 8-10 ft sets at northwest facing breaks late Saturday.  Sunday and Monday that west/northwest swell will peak in the 8-12ft range with double/triple overhead sets at northwest facing breaks.   Winds are forecast to remain light/offshore both Sunday and Monday mornings.  We do have a weather system inbound New Years Eve into New Years Day - but it's not suppose to change the wind pattern and only bring us light rain.  So  - plenty to ride the next couple days - just check your winds.  cya in the water.

18ft at 10 from 310

Swell has jumped way up - but remains only a big windswell event given last night's and today's winds.  Should subside overnight.  Protected breaks might hold some options tomorrow - check the winds and buoys early.  cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST

Major winter storm about to slam the region tonight.  Winds are ramping up and will be blowing gale force from the south/southeast overnight.  By the time the storm exits tomorrow - winds will shift strongly to the northwest and should blow from that direction all day Wednesday and Thursday.  Look for conditions to improve Friday and into the weekend with northeast winds Friday morning and "variable" winds on Saturday.  Swell wise - 6ft at 10 sec from 290 right now - basically windswell and that will jump up overnight into Thursday in the 5-8 ft range (deepwater swell).  Friday and Saturday actually look pretty clean - with smaller surf.  Probably some left over storm sickness on the surface Friday - however Saturday should feature pretty nice conditions.  Get through the next couple days and things should be good after.  cya in the water.

Christmas Eve/Day Forecast

Winds remained pretty calm today - very light south to southeast flow.  Mix of SW windswell and NW windswell in the water - about head high - a tad bigger at northwest facing breaks.  Look for one more morning (Friday) of light winds and then a strong, fast moving storm comes ashore for Friday night to Saturday night with heavy rain and strong S/SE winds.  I think Friday looks good - Saturday probably a bust.  Winds turn W/NW on Sunday - with increasing swell - but not certain it will clean up that fast - still worth a check.  Merry Christmas and cya in the water.

Week Ahead & Happy Winter Solstice!

Another storm set to come ashore this afternoon - lasting through Wednesday.  Great time to hit the Sierra if you board or ski - huge amount of snow up there and that will continue most of the week.  As for the surf - deep water is running 7ft at 12 from 295 today with strong SE winds 20-25 kts already blowing in advance of the surface front.  As for winds - look for variable winds potentially tomorrow morning - and then things should stay out of the south/southeast the rest of the week as more fronts move through.  Look for a mix of west/sw swell all week with most days overhead at north facing breaks - smaller elsewhere.  By Saturday should see a larger west swell come ashore with a big storm system.  More on that mid week.  So, Wednesday looks possible in the morning and then find spots that like south/southeast winds and you'll have something to ride.  cya in the water

Updated Forecast

As predicted the north pacific storm door has opened and looks to stay open through most of next week. Up here in Tahoe it's dumping snow above 7000 ft - rain below. Look for south winds through at least Wednesday. Bigger surf 8-12 ft deepwater looks likely for Tuesday and Wednesday but don't count on it being that clean. In short, these are stormy times my friends. Keep an eye on winds and you might find some moments here and there. Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

New west swell filling in today - 6 ft at 10 from around 240.  Should stick around through Tuesday with a bigger west/northwest swell to show on Wednesday with surf back up in the 6-10 ft range (deepwater) - pushing to double overhead at north facing breaks.  Winds looks to turn onshore overnight into Tuesday as a storm system comes ashore.  Thursday looks nice with east winds forecast and probably shoulder to head high surf.  More swell for the weekend forecast but looks like the North Pacific is gonna unleash a can of whoop ass on us with rain, south winds, copious amounts of snow in the Sierra starting as early as Friday night and lasting well into the following week.  I'd say get somewhere protected on Wednesday (northwest winds due) and then hit it Thursday.  Keep an eye on the winds over the upcoming weekend and you might see a few windows.  Forecast still needs to iron out the details.  I'm in Tahoe Dec 17-20 and won't be updating this forecast.  Have a great week, cya in water.

Weekend Forecast

Down in Los Angeles - actually caught uncrowded Malibu this morning with some small West swell wrap. Not sure where everyone was - i did expect a cast of thousands and was quite happy to be alone with my thoughts at 3rd point. For Nor Cal - weekend looks like smallish swell - with light winds - potentially pretty nice weather. Probably waist to chest high with some bigger sets possible at north facing breaks. Enjoy it - because models are hinting at perhaps a very unsettled pattern starting next Tuesday and lasting through the following weekend. cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Unsettled weather to continue through most of the week. Look for a window Tuesday morning - but then more southerly winds should be the norm for Wednesday, Thursday with more rain/storms until Friday. Possibly easing off as we go into the weekend. Swell stays small tomorrow as we have a mix of small northwest windswell and mid size southwest remnant storm swell which was generated by our weekend storm. New, much larger northwest swell looks to come in Wednesday to Friday - biggest Thursday with swell jumping back up in the double and triple overhead range and good northwest facing breaks. So, mid week on - plenty of surf - just check the winds and you might find a few windows. cya in the water

Quick Update for Sunday -

forecast is now calling for fairly heavy rains Sunday and high winds - especially near the coast. so keep an eye on it.

Weekend Forecast

New NW swell is peaking overnight - presently 9.9 ft at 14 sec from 310 - pretty solid but a steep approach. Look for this swell to wind down overnight. Friday should feature light to variable winds - could fluctuate between northeast/east/southeast during the day as we have a weak front moving through the region tonight. Rain chances look to pick up again Saturday/Sunday - but winds are really forecast to remain light - directionally speaking could see a wide range of wind directions given the wind movement in the upper atmosphere and low pressure systems diving through. Key word is light - so check the buoys/local wind models each morning and you might score. Swell looks to wind down Friday/Saturday - pick back up again on Sunday in the overhead range. So nothing major - but certainly waves on tap. cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Super clean conditions today with east winds and fading northwest windswell. North facing breaks were still overhead. Air and water temps are very cold and look to stay that way. We have a weather system inbound for mid week - but rain chances look slim. Better chance of rain for the weekend - but that event is also a bit up in the air at the moment in terms of timing. For Tuesday, look for offshore winds in the morning with northwest windswell fading further. Should be very clean and up to head high. Could see an increase in south winds tomorrow afternoon as the front approaches. Wednesday winds (in the am) look light and variable. Next swell is due in on Wednesday/Thursday and that will push north facing breaks back up in the overhead range. Steep angle 300-330 - which has become somewhat of a fixture of our La Nina influenced Fall. No large swell forecast for the next seven days - yet plenty of waves to ride. Keep an eye on the winds through the weekend as these weather systems coming along will keep conditions highly variable. Know your spots and like always you'll score. Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Happy Thanksgiving. Beautiful day with offshore winds, cold temps and very small waves. Look for a repeat tomorrow, even smaller surf (if it can get much smaller). Storm system drops in late tomorrow, moving north to south overnight and through the day Saturday. Saturday will feature south to southwest winds and small waves. Sunday we'll see the swell kick back up into the head-overhead-double overhead range as a new northwest swell moves in on the heels of our weather maker. Northwest winds will accompany the passage of the storm - so anything facing west/northwest will be a mess. I'd get out tomorrow and make the best of the small stuff - and then find some protection from the winds on Sunday. cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Say goodbye to water temps - 40kt nw winds will chill things off quite quickly overnight. That combined with morning temps somewhere between 20 and 30 degrees - break out your big wetsuits boys and girls. Water temp around 50 right now and dropping fast. Winds howling with front passage - Sierra is getting even more snow - will have a 10-12ft base probably by late Wednesday. Winds are forecast to subside, and turn northeast over the next two days. Surf will stay on the small windswell size. Although i am tracking a new pulse of north windswell that might give us a bit of a bump over the next 24-48 hrs. A bit uncertain if Wednesday will clean up much. The hope is that by Thursday morning - we'll have some fun conditions (very cold!) especially at northwest facing breaks. Weekend is still looking pretty small right now with another weather system due in late Friday into Saturday. cya in the water.

Holiday Week Forecast

Record cold temps headed our way mid week - with morning lows in the 20s in many of the wind protected valleys. 9ft of snow in past two days in the Sierra with more pounding them today. Who says La Nina can't bring a can of whoop ass? For us - NW windswell/short period stuff looks on tap - which has been the case now for a week or more. One of the unfortunate side effects of La Nina is the extreme northerly swell events as storms develop in the far upper north/east reaches of the Gulf of Alaska as they navigate the blocking high pressure that is set up in the Pacific. This trend most likely to continue all winter - with bouts of warmer/mid latitude storms/swell events with the high retrogrades far enough west to open the corridor. For this week - looks like the best swell/wind days will be Wednesday and Thanksgiving day with light winds/offshore and small NW windswell. Things to get really small by Friday - but then potentially pick up again next Saturday/Sunday as a new storm system comes ashore. Not really ideal conditions - but I do think Wed/Thurs are the days to chase it. Happy Thanksgiving and cya in the water.

Updated forecast

Pretty strong storm moving through tonight - nw winds will pick up hard and will blow all day Sunday making a mess of most spots. Should be plenty of swell in the water but hard to find clean spots to ride. Not an ideal few days coming up so make the best of what you can get. Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Our nice Fall weather exits by late tomorrow - incoming low pressure system swirling down the coast out of the Gulf of Alaska will bring on and off again rain, wind (snow at higher Bay Area peaks) and swell through Sunday. Not huge amounts of rain as this system doesn't have a lot of moisture to work with - but much much colder temps on the way. Expect steep angle (310 +) NW swell/windswell to kick up Friday and last through Monday. Probably on the ugly side with onshore winds likely for most of the period and swell of the shorter period variety. Look for solid size at nw facing breaks - especially Friday to Sunday - double overhead sets look likely at times. We might catch a break and get some lighter winds for the morning sessions - so keep an eye on the buoys and you might find some breaks to get wet. Bottom line is very cold weather on the way and unsettled conditions. Not ideal surfing weather - but if you know where to look - you can find some waves. cya in the water.

Hello Orion

Winter constellation Orion visible tonight in the eastern sky. Always a nice sight. Fall. Offshore winds are blowing 20-30kts at higher elevations. This should mix down to the surface overnight - lasting through Monday. Big shot of NW swell winds down overnight quickly. Probably look for deepwater heights of 6-7 ft at 11-13sec by sunrise. Windswell is on the rise too - given the strong north winds over the outer waters - so that might mix up the nw facing beach breaks. Look for consistent, but smaller nw swell most of next week with very clean conditions - especially mornings. Next chance of rain now looks like next Friday - as this high pressure ridge will move to the west and allow a low pressure system to drop down out of Alaska. Could be cool, wet and windy next weekend. Until then - enjoy the conditions. cya in the water.

Offshore winds/chilly nights & swell

Thanks to our girlfriend La Nina - look for offshore winds for the next 6-7 days with cold nights as high pressure clamps down on the West Coast and East Pacific/Gulf of AK. Current WNW swell will wind down overnight (from 290-310) and be replaced late Friday into Saturday by a new pulse of WNW swell (from 290-310) - pumping surf back up in the double overhead range at northwest facing breaks. Could see some bigger sets. That swell will fade out Sunday. More swell on tap for next week. Storm door is open - we're going to get the swell just not the weather with the blocking high pressure over us. Next hint of any rain would be around 8 days out from now - but that is quite uncertain at this point. So enjoy the run of nice days coming up. cya in the water.

Week Ahead

I love November. The surf, the sun angle, the lighting, the tourists are gone which makes driving to your favorite surf break more fun. If I could have one month all year in Nor Cal - it would be November. However, it most certainly isn't all dreamy today. NW winds chopping the hell out of things behind our rainy front which exited to the east overnight. Another storm is making it's way towards us - and rain should start in the north bay tomorrow afternoon. Small storm - out of here on Wednesday. Could see some really nice days starting around Thursday and lasting through Sunday. Back to back wnw swells should last through the week. Should see overhead to well overhead waves all week at north facing breaks - with smaller surf in the protected spots. Get through tomorrow and part of Wednesday and get some work done. Have dinner with the girlfriend, wife. Call your mom. Then go surf. cya in the water.

**LA NINA NOTE - after tonight's storm - high pressure to take up residence in the Gulf of Alaska and East Pacific - it's been expected and quite typical of a La Nina enhanced winter. So we can look for perhaps a prolonged period of offshore days coming up for the remainder of November. Any storms that do come along, will have to go around the high and down through BC and the Northwest. Good surfing weather - bad for snow pack and rainfall.

Weekend Forecast

Larger wnw swell moves in tonight - should push northwest facing breaks back into the well overhead to (occasional) double overhead range for Friday and Saturday. Swell will fade somewhat on Sunday but still be on the larger side for stand out breaks. New run of northwest swell inbound for Monday/Tuesday - from 290-310 - kicking back up into the double overhead range again. Weak weather system coming in Friday/Saturday - chance of rain south. Stronger storm for Sunday should bring us light rain. Winds Friday and Saturday look light - a bit more onshore push on Sunday with the storm coming ashore. plenty of swell - nothing like November in Nor Cal. cya in the water.

RIP Andy Irons

Just heard the shocking news that Andy Irons died. So sad - my thoughts and prayers to his family. Such an amazingly talented, gifted surfer. Loved to watch him ride waves.

17ft at 17 sec from 295

Doesn't get much bigger around here. Huge swell with offshore/clean conditions today and tomorrow. Epic. Get some if you can. cya in the water.

BOOM -33ft at 17- Papa buoy

Forerunners of tomorrows huge swell showing at Papa Buoy - 29-33 ft with long periods in the 17-20sec range. That's huge. It will be here tomorrow. Cya in the water and GO Giants!