Thursday, September 7, 2023

UPDATED FORECAST 9-7, Hurricane Jova, More South Swell mid Sept.....

 Brief pause after a very strong south swell graced our shores from last Friday through last night.   Still some energy in the water at 2.5 to 2.7 ft @15/17 seconds from 175, but will fade through the day.   Watching the movement of Hurricane Jova now, moving west/northwest underneath and away from Baja.  Storm has moved into the So Cal window and should continue into our window for the next day.    We could start to see swell from Jova as earlier as Saturday.   Right now models are showing the potential for steep angle south 2-4 ft @16 sec late Saturday, pushing up to 4-6 ft@12-14 sec on Sunday.   This will likely be 170 deg or steeper.  Everything depends on the track right now.   Good bet most of the CA Coast will see action and spots with good exposure to the south will obviously pick up the most swell.   One to watch for sure.  Northwest winds will ramp up again over the outer waters for the next 4-5 days, hard to say right now how much mixes into the inner waters, given the fog and ongoing light southerly flow.   Beyond all this - the South Pacific is now very active and looking at the potential for some strong south swells Mid September and beyond while we wait for the North Pacific to really wake up.   El Niño is most certainly having an impact on the S Pac now and the Tropics, we will see what that means for our winter surf.   Cya in the water.  

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