Sunday, September 17, 2023

UPDATED FORECAST 9-17, FIRST REAL NW SWELL THIS COMING WEEK

 Some south swell left overs today 2ft @15 from around 200.   This will be the last day of south swell and then focus turns to incoming northwest swell train for Tuesday-Thursday.   A decent size low pressure system in the Gulf of Alaska has been creating a good fetch of winds.   Swell will build overnight Monday at 8ft @16 seconds, solid on Tuesday at 8-10 ft @16 seconds as well as Wednesday 9-11ft@14 seconds.  Size holding Thursday before fading out Friday into next weekend.   Winds won't be ideal for this swell - northwest winds forecast Monday night through Thursday, veering more northerly Wed/Thurs.   Nearshore winds might not be as strong or have more of an offshore component given they will be a result of an Inside Slider type system diving into the Great Basin.   It is close to meteorological Fall - and the time of year for wind events like this.   The Pacific Jetstream is active and energetic - and we also have some chances of rain mid week next, as well as the possibility of a stronger rain even for next weekend.  So here we go!  Cya in the water! 

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