First major winter storm of the year is approaching OR/CA this afternoon. This weather system is essentially going to "bomb" off the North Coast late tomorrow, with perhaps all time low mb pressure for the date of 978mb set back in 2010. Forecast calling for 975mb. Given the winds, close proximity of the storm center - look for giant surf late Tuesday into Wednesday night - wave heights approaching 30-35 ft Mendocino County north. Deepwater will be 23-25ft at 17 seconds - quite impressive. Swell will stay on the XL side until Thanksgiving, then things will fall back to more mortal heights 9-11 ft on Turkey Day, 6-8 ft on Friday. Lots of crazy wind coming, from all directions. Badly needed rainfall will be a welcome sight and should be heavy at times. Might be some spots to surf but don't look for anything very clean until later this week. Happy Thanksgiving and cya in the water!
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