Friday, January 20, 2017
PAPA Buoy - 42ft at 17 seconds
All my years doing this blog and before - i can't remember seeing a buoy reading that big at our far offshore buoys. 42ft at 17sec. That's deepwater swell. Think about that for a few moments. Think about that size wave at Mavericks - hitting the reef coming out of deep water. How big the face? 80, 100ft? 125ft? Swell will decay as it starts to hit the next buoys - but it's going to be pretty friggin large late tomorrow and Saturday throughout the region. NOAA still saying 25ft deepwater or so - pretty damn big. Unfortunately it will be a a complete turd fest with ongoing rain, southwest to west winds - howling rain. Big, large unruly surf. Will be fun to watch.
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