UPDATED FORECAST - 12-26

Light winds and moderate northwest to west swell should continue Christmas week.   Buoys right now are 6-7 ft at 13 from 295 plus.   Reinforcing shot of west swell rolls in starting tomorrow and Thursday -that should take surf heights back up some to 6-7ft at 15 seconds.   Slow fade into the weekend.   The persistent ridge blocking all storms from the west coast as well as shunting a lot of swell producing storms way up into the Gulf of AK is showing signs of breaking down.   If you read the NOAA forecasts on this page you will see that we're starting to see signs of things changing around the first week in January.   Hopefully that comes to pass and we will start getting some rain - which is also good for many local beaches and spots along the Central CA Coast during the winter - opening up river mouths, sandbars and other locations.  

UPDATED FORECAST 12-17

On track for one of the driest Decembers on record.   Small storm system due to drop in Tues/Wed time frame but don't expect much rain south of SF and very light amounts.   High pressure will regain control right after.   North winds blowing 15-25kts with gusts to 30 - northwest swell is 7ft at 12 seconds.   Look for winds to gradually wind down tomorrow - swell to range 6-10ft at 12 seconds.   Winds remain light until Wed when northwest winds ramp up behind front passage.   Swell to range 6-9ft through Thursday.   Long term weather models suggest a wet pattern might take shape from the end of Dec thru Jan 13th - by then we will really need some weather around here.   If the pattern doesn't show more promise in January we could be in for a very dry winter which wont bode well for CA.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 12-2

December.   Large back to back northwest swells have been rolling in.   Swell is down a tad from the past two days but still 10-12ft at 15-17 seconds this am.   Quite solid.   Winds are generally light and variable with a bit of an offshore component in some spots.   Solid swell looks to stick around at least through Monday - decreasing by a foot or so each day while the period drops.   Chance of rain from Marin north tonight into Sunday, then we're high and dry for the remainder of the week as a more continental airmass will arrive from the north giving us some very cold nights during the first part of the week, moderating some from mid week on.   North winds will pick up early in the week, then turn light to offshore from about Wednesday on.  So it could be a nice run of days once we get through this weather.   Keep an eye on the winds, plenty of surf on tap.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST 11-25

Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.   Early this morning winds are fairly light and northwest swell is 5.9 at 12 sec from 310.  Look for light winds today and a good part of Saturday before the next series of storms takes aim at Central/Northern CA.   In addition, building northwest swell Saturday night - 4-6 ft at 19 seconds, will build even more on Sunday at 10-13ft at 17 sec, and Monday jumping up to 13-15 ft at 14-15 sec.   Strong south winds will ramp up Saturday night and blow all day Sunday, switching to southwest direction at 20-30kts.   Winds will shift to the northwest on Monday behind the front and blow fairly strong at 20-30kts.   Rain on and off from Saturday night into Monday.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - 11-11

Super fun late season south/southwest swell hitting our shores - 3.2 at 15 sec @190.  North Pac swell is 4ft at 10 sec from 305.   Look for this south swell to stick around through Monday night - staying in that deepwater zone of 3ft as period drops.   Northwest swell will stay small (ideal for not harassing the vibe of the south) - at least thru Sunday - then the northwest will jump up to around 8ft at 12 seconds on Monday night.   Most likely to remain elevated through next Thursday as as series of Pacific storms come ashore - first one late Sunday, another mid week and then another next weekend.   Winds will fluctuate between south as front come onshore and west to northwest as they pass.   So, plenty of swell - just check the winds and know your spots and you'll find good waves. Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 11-6/STORMY PATTERN

We are in between systems today and tomorrow while a large low pressure system is dropping out of the Gulf of Alaska, due to hit us starting Wednesday and Thursday.   This will bring a period of very strong south turning west winds, larger southwest storm swell.   In the meantime, smaller west swell

around today and Tuesday - deepwater 4-6 ft at 14 seconds, with fairly light north winds forecast at 5-15kts.   After the mid week storm, winds and swell should decline as we head into Friday.    Unsettled pattern looks to continue on and off through next weekend as the Pacific is active for early November.   Keep an eye on the winds and you'll find some good windows for surf.   Cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST - 10-26

Powerful new NW/WNW swell will plow into N Cal late Friday into the weekend from an intense storm and remnants of Typhoon Lan that cranked out huge surf near the Aleutians for the past 36 hours or so.  Probably see some forerunners very late Friday in far Nor Cal - game on everywhere else by Saturday morning - showing biggest late afternoon and evening Saturday.   Probably looking for double and triple overhead sets by dark on Saturday and possibly larger and best north/northwest facing breaks.  Swell will peak Sunday morning with continuing double to triple overhead surf. Swell direction about 290-310.   Decent southwest swell will roll in at the same time from 205 to 220 - good for chest to head high sets at south facing breaks but mostly lost under the more dominant northwest swell.   Looking for pretty ideal winds the next few says - especially for AM sessions with no wind or light offshore wind.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST - OCT 14TH - LARGE NW LATE WEEK

Light winds continue through mid week with small north/northwest swell along with an incoming southwest swell starting Tuesday.  Then our first large northwest swell of the season comes in (along with weather) - starting Thursday.  

Breaking things down like this:
Today - light north winds most of the day - deepwater swell about 3-4ft at 9-10 sec
Tues - NW winds 10kts - deepwater swell 4-5 at 10-12 and new south showing 3ft @18 sec
Wed - NW winds 10kt - deepwater swell from northwest about 5ft at 13 and south 3ft at 18.
Thursday - southwest winds, chance of rain - winds 10-20kts - deepwater 9-12ft from northwest.
Friday - NW winds 10-20 kts - northwest swell 13-16ft.
Northwest swell will begin a slow fade into and through next weekend.   Good chance of rain Thursday into Friday - for sure the North Bay will get a decent hit which will help the fires and lesser amounts Bay Area south.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - OCT 10TH

Decent run of surf should continue through the weekend.   Current NW swell is easing out today but still good for head to overhead waves at northwest facing breaks today.   A new mid period NW swell will show mid week - pushing surf back up to overhead range at NW facing breaks.   Meanwhile, southwest swell trains look to continue towards the weekend with a fun size SW (200-220) from the 13th to 15th and then another pulse for the 17th to 19th.   North to northwest winds will increase again mid week and last through the weekend - strongest over the outer waters and far north.   Around the Bay Area these winds could take a more NE or offshore component some mornings.   The increase in winds will not help all the wildfires burning around Northern California.    We could use some rain to help firefighters and nothing really on the horizon for the next 7-10 days.   Cya in the water.  

OCTOBER

Calendar says Oct 1, but the conditions look a bit more like late April or May.   Strong, gale force winds are blowing down the coast from Cape Mendocino south, making a general mess of everything.  Short period windswell the rule and that looks to continue into the week.   I'm not seeing much hope for anything until next Friday (forerunners Thursday) when a steep angled south swell comes in from down under.   This swell is the result of a strong storm last week and should have some decent size (deepwater 3-4 ft with long periods), but the angle of approach might limit it's solid impacts 190-195 degrees.   However, south facing spots should have size and if all goes as forecast this could be a pretty solid swell event.    No major swells of interest from the North Pacific forecast, however we could see some energy middle of the following week - as things remain fairly active in the Gulf, but most of the energy has been pushing into BC.   Winds might get lighter towards Thursday of next week which would limit it's shredding impacts on the incoming south swell train up the coast.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - SEP 25

Fall conditions to start the week with light to offshore winds and small windswell in the water - 2-4ft from 315-320.   We will see in increase in short to mid period west/northwest swell/windswell starting Tuesday lasting through Thursday - deepwater heights about 2-5ft thru that period.   Steep approach at 310, periods 9-11 seconds.   Beyond that - no swell expected into the weekend and beyond.   Just windswell if we're lucky.   N Pac is not fully online yet as we really wait for the pattern to set up and more frequent swell producing storms develop.   On the upside, winds look relatively light most of the week, at least until Thursday.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST SEP 18/SOLID SWELL IN THE WATER

Buoys in the Gulf of Alaska reporting swell of 17-22ft at 14 seconds this morning depending on location.   That's our swell in the water heading this way.   Surf will be on the rise Tuesday far north and Bay Area overnight - then quite solid for Wednesday & Thursday when deep water heights will be in the 8-12ft/Wed, 6-10ft/Thurs range - from 305-320.    Look for decent size to hang around through Friday.   Early season storms hitting WA, OR and far Nor Cal, will actually bring a chance of rain as far south as Sonoma County tomorrow and then exit the region mid week - leaving us with northwest winds behind the fronts.   Winds will be the issue the next few days, no real clean conditions but best bet will most likely be for the AM sessions.   Winds might lighten up a bit towards the end of the week.   With regards to buoys, the CA Buoy remains adrift but still reporting.  The Papa Buoy is no longer reporting wave heights.   Oregon Buoy, Mendo Buoy and Pt Arena Buoy best window to incoming swell trains.   I've also added the Stormsurf/Gulf of Alaska Buoy link which gives you a good look at swell much further out.   No idea when these broken or out of commission buoys will be retrieved and redeployed.   With the Useless Idiot in the Whitehouse trying to cut NOAA programs as well as claiming climate change is a hoax, might be a while before we get operational buoys again......cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST/SEP 14/First large NW swell next week

Northwest winds are blowing hard over outer waters - fading, meager sw swell still around but limping out of here tonight as another equally impotent s/se swell moves in or misses the Coast entirely.   Windswell will be the rule through the weekend - and wind.   Things look to improve by Tuesday/Wednesday when a longer period, northwest swell, a real swell, moves into the region.   More on that by Monday - storm has not come together yet in the N Pac, but models are forecasting deepwater heights in the 8-12ft range during that period.   So it should have some size and power.   Until then, get what you can.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST SEPT 7TH

Long period forerunners will come in overnight from an extra tropical storm that developed last weekend.    Look for deepwater 4-5ft at 19 sec tonight into the morning.   Period will drop to 18 sec then 16 sec by Saturday afternoon.   Decent size through the weekend.  Could be a bit lully at times, these longer period extra trop swells tend to come from far away and this one is no different.   Swell direction plus 290 degrees.  Meanwhile, mid period Gulf swell is fading out today - 4-5 at 12-13 seconds.   This one came in smaller than forecast and inconsistent as well.   Winds are still south to southwest today - which kick over to light north overnight into tomorrow.   Then stronger northwest wind for the weekend.   Long term into September looking pretty promising and active in the N Pac.  Cya in the water.  

SEPTEMBER 4TH/UPDATED FORECAST

Nice SSW swell peaks today - long period swell is 2.7 at 15 from 185 plus.   Swell fades tomorrow and then we have our first fall swell due to arrive Wed/Thurs.  That swell from 290-305 will be good for overhead surf at winter breaks, smaller at south facing breaks.   Western Typhoon Sanvu is the next system behind this one - that will generate swell after recurving in the Pacific, for around the 13th - 15th.   I'll dial in that swell later in the week.   As for winds, southeast to south winds first part of the week due in part to the upper level pattern and remnants of former Mexico TS Lidia which is moving overhead this morning bringing increasing clouds and a chance of thunderstorms.   Once Lidia moves out - winds might switch briefly to west then northwest late in the week.   No huge northwest wind blow in the forecast, just highly variable.   Morning sessions might be best bet.   Plenty of swell on tap this week - certainly looking like September.   Cya in the water.  

SEPTEMBER 1!!!

Welcome to the 2017/2018 season.   You made it through another summer, a particularly lousy summer for surf around these parts.    Extremely hot conditions exist today and will stick around over the weekend.   As such, high pressure has crushed the marine layer leaving us with fairly light winds today and through the weekend.  Perhaps an afternoon sea breeze each day.   Not much swell to talk about - small windswell and a fading steep angle south swell which didn't make much noise the past few days.  Look for a better angled sw swell (200-210) to move in around Sunday afternoon - maybe chest high sets at best by Monday/Tuesday.   Our first swell from the N Pac looks to head in here around Sept 6-7 - as models forecasting a storm to develop in the next couple days.   That swell, from around 300 will be good for head/overhead surf, possibly larger at times.   Behind that, another swell is forecast for Sept 8-10.   I'll be watching those lows develop this weekend and update late weekend or Monday.   Good sign however, with some solid surf (finally) on the way.   Cya in water.
***CA BUOY is adrift but still reporting.   No idea when they will get it back to it's original position.

UPDATED FORECAST 8-22

There is a small touch of hurricane swell showing from Kenneth tonight - running around 2-3ft at 12-13 secs from 220.   Just building and will be in the water tomorrow into Thursday, possibly some left overs into Friday am.   Winds were light most of the day - starting to pick up from the northwest tonight.   NW winds will pick up the rest of the week - hard to say if they will mix in right along the coast - good chance AM sessions might be ok - but expect winds for the PM sessions.   High pressure is setting up shop and it all depends on the location of the high.   Seas will build offshore the rest of the week in response to the winds, so nearshore wind swell will increase as well.   No long period swells from the south or north forecast for at least the next seven days or so.   September is almost here.  I am keeping an eye on the N Pac for some signs of life and the first swells of fall.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - AUG 13

Poor surf and conditions look to continue, some swell on the horizon from the south and southwest late next week and into the following.   Until then, not much to talk about other than short period windswell, fog and onshore winds.   I'd look for an increase of swells from the south around Aug 18-21.  Watching the N Pac for signs of life as we get closer to September.   Hang in there.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST 7-28 - ACTIVE TROPICS ** New forecast links

Just need to get through the next couple days and then we should start seeing some swell from tropical systems to our south as well as southwest swell from way Down Under.   Tropical Storm Irwin and Hurricane Hilary are both about 900-1000 miles off Cabo.   Irwin is not going to be a swell producer, in fact will get sucked up into Hilary over the next few days and orbit each other in a rare event called a Fujiwhara interaction.   Swell from Hilary should start to show Sunday 7-30 at 3-4ft deepwater at 13 seconds (maybe longer period forerunners of 17-18 sec before) and peak Monday 7-31 with deepwater swell at 4ft 13 seconds.   Very steep angle at 165 - so it's going to miss a lot of our coast as it comes in.  At the same time two longer period fetches from the south will arrive - both will max out at about 2-3 ft 15-18 seconds but a better swell direction with both of these events at 175-180 - which is still rather "south" for our area.   Winds are going to be an issue as the northwest wind machine will be ramping up with the normal Pacific high pressure/thermal low pressure inland deal that is so common up here during the summer and has been quite persistent this summer.   There is a West Pacific Hurricane called Noru that has brought surf to Kauai today and tomorrow - an early sign of things changing as we move towards August.   Redwoods are also starting to get some brown brambles which is also a good indicator.   One more month to go until Sept 1 and right on cue - the patterns out there - both on land and in the ocean are following suit.
Note - i've added two links in the forecast section.   CDIP All Pac Buoy link gives you a look at deepwater swell around the Pacific Basic and even points beyond.   Stormsurf/Quik/CAST - these guys are the best in my mind at predicting weather, swell, wind and everything else as it applies to surfing on our coast or anywhere for that matter.   This is a summary page for Nor Cal - I've used for years when i want a quick look at what is going on.

UPDATED FORECAST - 7-20

It's pretty ugly friends.   No swell from the south to speak of - dribble from the northwest and day after day of winds.   Water is cold too.   Looks to stay this way for the remainder of the month up here - a few background pulses of south now and then.   Things might improve as we start August - but that's way out there.   Best bet is to travel south - anywhere but here.  Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - JULY 8TH

Long period forerunners tonight of a series of south swells due for the region.  Deep water swell is 1.3ft at 18 from a steep 175.  Swell looks to be around all next week - with deep water heights around 3ft - forecast to increase Wednesday and Thursday 3-5ft.   So it should be a pretty good run of south swell.   Winds - you know the deal - it's July - northwest winds will be the norm - lightest morning and late afternoon/early evening.   Spots protected from the northwest winds will be best and those spots tend to be south facing and will pick up all the swell.   Cya in the water.

JULY 4TH WEEKEND

Good weekend to mountain bike, play golf, travel to Mexico for waves etc....It's not really happening around here.   The good news?  It's July - we're closer to September 1, and perhaps we might be closer to some decent waves at some point in the near future.   There is a chance we may see a good run of southwest swell starting around the 7th, lasting through next weekend - with lighter winds forecast starting tomorrow.   Don't expect epic non wind conditions mind you, but better than it's been.   Until then - get what you can or do something else.   On another note - i've added another link in the forecast section of the blog - NOAA Pacific Viewer - this will give you the global view of significant wave height in both the N Pac and S Pac.   Enjoy.   Cya in the water.  

END OF JUNE - UPDATED FORECAST

Had a pretty nice run of south swell since late last week.  That event is winding down with some left overs today at 2ft @14 from 190.   Northwest winds will be on the rise and stay elevated through the weekend.  North windswell will develop and be largest north of the Bay.   Background southwest swells will come in through the end of the week - waist to maybe shoulder high at the best summer breaks.   Spots protected from the northwest wind will be the call all week long and into the holiday.  Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - JUNE 19

Not much change anticipated over the coming week, but we will see some pulses of back to back small southwest swells in the water, with the first one slated to arrive late today, followed by two others throughout the period.   Nothing epic mind you, small, probably waist to chest high at times at the best facing south breaks.   Windswell will continue and winds will ramp up to near gale force again as the week goes, with high pressure in the Pacific interacting with low pressure over land.   Know your spots and you'll probably find something to ride - keep your expectations in check.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST JUNE 5

North winds all weekend have dropped water temps back to 49.   Unorganized windswell in the water - 7-10ft depending on location.   Southwest swell continues through Thursday this week, but really only showing a south facing spots protected from the winds.  We have a solid chance of rain coming this week - unseasonable for June - Thursday into Friday.   Look for the most rain Sonoma County and points north as a fairly strong late season storm comes ashore.   The official end of the rainy season is June 30 with new season starting July 1, so it is quite rare to get an organized system this late into the year.   Take what you can get this week, waves round to ride if you know where to look.   Cya in the water.

Few Boards for Sale.....

If anyone is interested, selling a couple boards:
6.6 Hypto Crypto with fins - $250.00 - thruster, round pin - great condition.
6.6 Fowler Fountain of Youth with fins - $250.00 - squash tail, thruster, great board to gravel in small waves and goes solid in bigger surf.   Also in great condition.
email me at bnovick@me.com

UPDATED FORECAST 5-16

You'll notice my reports getting a bit stretched out.  It's spring in Nor Cal - so not much to report.   Winds are blowing from the west/northwest and a storm system is diving down from BC that will bring rain to far northwest CA and maybe some showers are far south as Sonoma/Marin late today.   Windswell is our primary source of waves and looks to stay that way through the week.  Looking ahead we might see a better run of south swells as we start the month of June.   Until then, get what you can when you have an opportunity.   Should be enough windswell around to get wet somewhere. Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST 5-8

As noted this morning by the SF NOAA forecaster - Bodega Buoy reporting water temp of 47 degrees (almost hit 46) - coldest since June of 2013.  All the wind over the past weekend has the upwelling machine in full motion.   Nothing that exciting on tap this week - mid range windswell and northwest swell thru the period - winds will continue to blow over the outer and northern waters all week - lightest day looks Thursday - nearshore winds harder to forecast so might be worth a look through the week.  Could also be a good week to get some work done too.   Cya in the water.

MAY 1 - UPDATED FORECAST

Northwest winds continue to blow over outer waters this am - but near shore, winds are light and variable.   This has been the pattern the past few days.   Forecast calls for very warm temps and offshore winds mid week - with those winds making it to the coast - will see if that materializes.  We have a small southwest swell in the water today (1.6 at 18 sec) and north windswell continuing.  The evolution this week of waves and weather goes like this:   new pulse of southwest swell fills in Thursday and peaks Friday.   Deepwater swell is forecast at 3ft from 195-200.   At the same time, a storm system in the Gulf of Alaska is going to develop and kick up a northwest swell event which by Friday is forecast to be running 8-10ft.    There will be slight chance of showers late in the week into the weekend, and northwest winds will pick up strongly after that low pressure system ejects off to the east.    Winds are going to be highly variable all week - so check it.   Should be something to ride each day at the right spots.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - END OF APRIL

It would appear that the record breaking winter of 2017 is finally over, high pressure, specifically the spring/summer East Pacific High Pressure ridge has arrived and should keep the storm track well to the north for extended period.   Could still see a chance of rain during the month of May, but climatology doesn't favor much.   Along with the high, north to northwest winds have been blowing the past few days and will continue to do so - especially over the outer waters and far northern waters.   As a result, SST's (water temps) have dropped to 50 at Bodega Buoy and 49 at San Francisco Buoy.   So if you like cold water and junky windswell this weekend is certainly your time to hit it.   Pretty much look for winds and short period windswell through next week.   Windwell will be 7-10ft at 8, 9,10 seconds.   Good times.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 4-22, SOUTHWEST SWELL

SW swell in the water this am - 3-4ft at 17-18 seconds from 195.   Small north swell continues as well.   Winds are generally east or non existent as a weak front is moving through Northwest CA - actually bringing rain north of Jenner at present.   Crazy swing from the great day yesterday.  Winds will most likely pick up behind the front tonight and tomorrow and west swell will increase back to 9-10 ft at 14 seconds and that swell will pretty much hold through Monday, back off some Tuesday and then increase again on Wednesday as the Pacific remains very active for this late in the season with more rain forecast on Monday/Tuesday - heavy rain in fact far north, with much less around the Bay Area.   Southern Hemisphere season has started at this point and is also pretty active.   The current sw swell will probably be lost in the more dominant energy tomorrow, however spots that like swells from that direction will be fun.   Check the winds - plenty to ride for the coming week.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST - EASTER WEEKEND

With this past week's storms Nor Cal just broke the all time wettest season on record surpassing 1982-83 (which was a strong El Nino event).   The eight station recording index now shows a cumulative total of over 90 inches of rain for the year.   Surf wise, not bad to start today, winds are light northeast and surf is overhead at west/north facing breaks.   North swell is 5-7ft at 10 sec, very small background SSW swell in the water too - but mostly lost under the northern energy.   There is a new northwest swell filling in today - deepwater should stay in the 6-7ft at 14 sec range.  Winds will turn south overnight as the first in a series of weaker storm systems comes ashore bringing more rain. Easter Sunday should feature south winds - swell 4-6ft at 15 with rain becoming likely during the day.  Two more systems slated to come through until next Wednesday, then high pressure will build once again.   Winds don't look that heavy for the first part of the week - fluctuating between south and west as systems come and go.   Check the winds and you'll probably find a spot to ride.   Swell will stay in the small to medium size range through the period.  Cya in the water.

JANUARY IN APRIL - UPDATED FORECAST

More rain today as another short wave pinwheels at the bottom of a low pressure trough located in the Gulf of AK - brief high pressure should build later today - into tomorrow, but another spoke of energy is going to rotate in on Sunday - best chance rain North Bay.   Another break and then models are hinting at another very significant storm mid to late week - like the system that came through a few days ago bringing high winds, heavy rain and very large swell.  Surf is 11ft at 12 sec from 300.   Winds are west/southwest and water temps 50 degrees in the Bay Area - colder further north.   Might not be a surf day unless you like the junk.   Not seeing a real break in winds over the next week - will fluctuate between south/southwest as systems come through and then northwest behind front passage.   Plenty of swell on tap as more swell trains will move through the waters.   Check the winds each day and you'll probably find spots to ride.   Climate models are saying La Nina is over and El Nino is already starting to show signs of coming back to life for next winter.   I'm not sure what that is going to look like, given we are about to break the all time record for wet weather (1982-83) during a season that i don't think any of the experts predicted would happen.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 3-29

Strong northwest winds are blowing this AM after passage of a cold front overnight which dropped some rain throughout the region.   High pressure in control now through the weekend and likely beyond with strong northwest winds forecast.   Decent size swell is in the water and will build through the weekend - 10-13ft on Saturday, 15-18ft on Sunday, fading some on Monday.   Spots protected from the northwest winds will obviously be cleaner.   Anything facing west/northwest will be shredded from the wind.   Water temps will likely begin to cool off with the never ending spring time winds that are setting up.   Long range models still hinting at more rain late next week will see if that comes to pass.   The region is just shy of the all time rainfall record from the 82-83' Super El Nino - we need about 5 more inches to surpass that.   The current rainy season doesn't end until Jun 30.   Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 3-26

Last week of March.   Chance of rain later today (it's raining further north) and then overnight this system will exit giving way to northwest winds on Monday and northwest swell 9ft at 11 seconds.  Expect swell size to continue at 9-11ft with short periods pretty much through next Friday, along with northwest winds 15-25kts most of next week - getting stronger late week as we are seeing the Pacific High start to set up for Spring.   Could see a minor system brush the region mid week with chance of rain, beyond that - dry weather will prevail.   Spots protected from the northwest wind will be your best shot at anything clean and rideable.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST 3-17

Storm door opens this weekend with rain on and off forecast through next Friday.   Strongest storm of the cycle will be next Thursday to Friday.   Looking for mainly south to southwest winds through the period as well with small to mid size west/northwest swells propagating through our waters.   Should be waves to ride - just check the winds.   Winter is not done with us yet.  Cya in the water.  

MARCH 11, UPDATED FORECAST

Spring ahead tonight and set your clocks forward.   Winds are light near shore at the moment but that will change later as northwest winds are blowing offshore around 15-18kts.   Steep angled swell - 5-7ft at 10 seconds from 315.   Looking a lot like spring.   Small west to northwest swell forecast through the period at 4-6ft 10-12 seconds along with northwest winds pretty much through next Wednesday.   Winds might be lighter for AM sessions - doubtful for PM sessions.   Next chance of rain might be mid week - north of Marin - but the North Pacific Spring High Pressure is looking to set up and might put an end to what has been a very historic rainy season in CA.   Cya in the water.

MARCH 1ST

Generally nice conditions expected through Friday with lighter morning winds and small west to northwest swells.  While northwest winds will blow over the outside waters, AM sessions like this morning should feature northeast to offshore winds, although a small change in the pressure gradient could bring the northwest winds closer to shore.   Afternoons will for sure see an increase in winds.  Swell should stay around 5-7ft through Saturday.   The high pressure ridge will begin to break down by the weekend with rain returning to the north early in the weekend and through the Bay Area by Sunday.   Longer range models continue to show a wet pattern returning for next week.  So get these nice days while you can.  As we are starting March, you can generally expect an uptick in northwest winds in general as we move through the month and the East Pacific high tries to establish itself for spring/summer.   Remains to be seen when that happens and I think we could be in for a fairly wet spring given the winter we've had.  Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST, 2-25, MARCH LOOMS.....

Mid period northwest swell rolling in at 6ft 14 seconds.   Winds are blowing offshore - east to southeast as a storm system off our coast is dropping down from south of Oregon.  Cold rain showers and low elevation snow will be possible over the next 36 hours or so.  South winds will blow tonight giving way to north winds on Sunday.  Thereafter, it will start to look a lot like Spring with northwest winds and smaller northwest swell through next Wednesday.  Swell will hover around 4-6 ft.   March 1st is the official end of the "good" surfing season up here, but I suspect we will plenty of decent days in the weeks ahead as the Pacific isn't done with CA yet.  Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - 2-18

Northwest winds are howling - big chunky northwest swell/wind swell at around 12-14ft with 11-12 second intervals.  Winds may drop down some tomorrow but another very strong storm will be knocking on our door late Sunday, south winds will ramp with heavy rain through Tuesday.   Looking beyond the next 4-5 days - might see high pressure re-establish itself around next Wednesday or Thursday.  We are moving towards March 1, the traditional end of the "good" wave season up here and the start of northwest winds and diminishing swell.  However, this has been anything but a normal winter and we could be in for a very wet spring and more swell than usual.  In the meantime - always spots along the coast to ride no matter what the wind and swell is doing - as well as how desperate one might be to get wet (i happen to be very desperate for surf today, so i'll probably hit it somewhere).   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST 2-13

Few more days of dry weather until the next cycle of winter storms slams into California.  Fairly light winds and small/mid size surf as well.  Look for the winds to pick up from the south/southeast through the day on Wednesday.  Then it stays unsettled through early next week.  Get it while you can.

UPDATED FORECAST 2-7

No surf for you this week.   Storms lined up across the Pacific will continue through Friday.  The weekend looks like we might dry out - northwest winds and good size swell so certain spots will work.   Until then, get some work done.

UPDATED FORECAST 2-1

Pretty amazing few days of surf coming to an end.  Storm system offshore is going to bring rain back into the forecast - on and off through about Friday and maybe into Saturday and Sunday.  Unfortunately, south to southwest winds are going to rule the region through Sunday.  For breaks that favor those winds - there will be waves.  Don't see any change in the winds through Monday at this point.  Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST 1-25

The XXL swell from the past few days continues to wind down today but still offering up overhead to double overhead sets this morning at north facing breaks.  Meanwhile, a new, long period swell from the west northwest is already in the water and will move into our outer waters tonight and be in full force tomorrow.  Look for deepwater 12ft (bigger further north) and long periods initially, (20 sec) to start.  Swell will fade out through the week and then we should have mid size surf on tap for the upcoming weekend.  Winds look pretty decent the rest of the week as well.  Might see a slight turn to the south tonight as a very weak system to our north brushes the state with very light showers.  Nothing like we've seen over the past month.  Then winds should stay light for mornings in particular through the period.  Next "pattern" change for rain looks about mid week.   Cya in the water.

PAPA Buoy - 42ft at 17 seconds

All my years doing this blog and before - i can't remember seeing a buoy reading that big at our far offshore buoys.  42ft at 17sec.  That's deepwater swell.  Think about that for a few moments.  Think about that size wave at Mavericks - hitting the reef coming out of deep water.  How big the face?  80, 100ft?  125ft?  Swell will decay as it starts to hit the next buoys - but it's going to be pretty friggin large late tomorrow and Saturday throughout the region.  NOAA still saying 25ft deepwater or so - pretty damn big.  Unfortunately it will be a a complete turd fest with ongoing rain, southwest to west winds - howling rain.  Big, large unruly surf.  Will be fun to watch.

UPDATED FORECAST - MLK DAY

Winds are fairly light today as a new northwest swell has filled in overnight.  Deepwater is around 7-8ft at 15 sec from 295 plus.  This is the last dry day for the weekend ahead as another series of strong storms will come ashore with powerful south winds and very large swell by the weekend.  In fact NOAA forecasting surf heights 20ft plus and even larger the further north you go Friday through Sunday.  Plenty of swell in the water before that - just winds the issue - but there might some spots that light up if you know where to look this week.  Cya in the water.

UPDATE FORECAST - JAN 9TH

Major storm has exited the region with just some scattered showers around the area this morning.  Short lived break as another storm is due to arrive late tonight through tomorrow bringing more heavy rain and wind.  Right now looks like we have to wait until next weekend for a break and high pressure to return.  Additionally, morning winds look like they might be decent Friday and Saturday with swell dropping into the head high to a bit overhead at best winter breaks.  Until then, get some work done.  Swell is going to jump up mid week again but winds will probably thrash it.  Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - BEWARE THE ATMOSPHERIC RIVER

Wet, windy, small, very small surf - unusually so when we have this much storm activity out in the Pacific - but many of these systems are lacking a real core low pressure spinning for days off shore in a favorable location so we're left with smaller windswell.  That won't change much going into the weekend other than we will see an up swing in south to southwest storm windswell as the next series of systems come roaring ashore Saturday into Monday.  This atmospheric river event (which is the new name for "Pineapple Express," is going to point a fire hose of water at some point on the North to Central Coast of CA - still trying to pin point where and timing but wherever it lands over the weekend you can expect plenty of rainfall.  Should be a real shit fest for surf over the weekend - but with south winds and some swell there are spots that will work and you probably know which spots those are.  Cya in the water.