West swell in the water this AM 5-6 ft at 10 from 280. Winds are light, should pick up a bit this pm when the front pulls through. High pressure will build back in today pushing the storm track to the north until mid next week. We SHOULD see light/variable/offshore winds the next 3-4 days in the mornings. But check the wind links each morning as the forecast is highly variable at the moment. Mid period swell around today and fading tomorrow into Saturday. Sunday, new pulse of West swell rises up from 260-290 with deepwater in the 4-7ft range. Good for overhead waves at north facing breaks. By Monday, deepwater will be 6-10 ft with double overhead sets at north facing breaks as the swell peaks. Good run of weather/surf coming up. Cya in the water.
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