Here comes Fall - busy week ahead. First small pulse of north swell showing this AM at 4.3 ft at 10 seconds. Winds are light/variable - but locally dense fog at the coast. Second impulse of swell behind this one shows late tonight - probably topping out in the 5-6 ft at 12 sec/from 317 range through Tuesday. Wednesday - the real action should start late - as long period northwest swell forerunners will show later in the day. Could see solid overhead waves at sundown on Wednesday at north facing breaks - then double to triple overhead Thursday into Friday (deep water 8-14 ft from 285-315). Lingering through Saturday with another smaller shot of swell (from the same storm) due in Saturday and Sunday. This storm is still still coming together for Wed-Sun - but pretty confident right now with models forecasting our first strong swell of the early season. Winds look lightest for mornings this week - perhaps a bit more onshore push as we move torwards the end of the week and into the weekend. The entire storm complex will finally move towards the northwest coast by late next weekend - and right now we have a very slight chance of rain next Sunday into Monday. More on that mid week. Plenty of swell on tap - check your winds. cya in the water.
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