Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Stubborn Marine Layer - Typhoon Choi-Wan Weekend Swell

Evening - marine layer refuses to budge. When high pressure set up in the Great Basin and a thermal low set up in the Central Valley over the weekend - we didn't get enough movement West from the Central Valley thermal low to essentially squash the marine air and allow the offshore flow to migrate all the way to the ocean. So we have cool air, dense fog, light south winds nearshore - but inland temps are soaring. We might get a north gradient late in the week - if this ramps up - it could be strong enough to scour the low clouds and fog out. As for the weekend - Typhoon Choi Wan merged with a frontal low in the Gulf of AK - and turned into a super system - pumping out long period WNW swell (285-305) for the upcoming weekend. Swell will be on the rise Friday night, with head high to well overhead surf Saturday afternoon and overhead to double overhead + for Sunday (for NW facing breaks like Ocean Beach). Early buoy readings from the Western Aleutians were showing deep water swell at 22ft 17 seconds. Between now and the weekend - we still have a small WNW swell in the water and some pulses of SW. So still plenty of surf to ride. Cya in the water.

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