JUNE - South Pacific to remain active.....

June gloom along the coast will hang around.  The week ahead will feature mostly windswell events with an uptick in swell from the southwest probably late Sunday, early Monday, lasting into mid month as a series of storms down by New Zealand ramp up and send swell north.  Still early, but forecast models look promising for a pretty decent run of swell.  Until then, get some work done, you might find some windswell windows now and then.  Cya in the water.

LATE MAY

Unseasonably strong low pressure system dropping south into northwest CA today - rain showers north of Cape Mendo and some high elevation snow.  Strong north to northwest winds are howling and water temps are tumbling again as a result.  49 degrees at Pt Arena and near 50 at the SF buoy.  Look for northwest winds most of the next week with medium size windswell.  Some background south swell will work in through the period - best at summer breaks.  Only three more months to go until September.   Cya in the water.

END APRIL/EARLY MAY FORECAST

Water temp at the SF Buoy this morning is 48.6 degrees.  Almost two weeks of on and off northwest winds have the upwelling machine running - with no relief in sight through most of the weekend as strong winds over the outer waters will continue to howl down the northern coast.  Big wind swell the result - at 12-13 at 9 seconds - but we also have a long period northwest swell building in with 14 second periods.  South facing breaks will be the only call due to the winds - but much smaller overall.  The South Pac has been active for the past two weeks as well with decent pulses of south to southwest swells propagating north - but for us - due to all the wind & angle of approach - those swells are getting hammered as they move into our local waters.  Some of the more favored locations for south to southwest swells may pick up some of these swells as we move into early May, but your best option will be south of our region in fact as far south as you can go.  Lighter winds forecast from Sunday into early next week - might be some windows for surf.  Until then - take what you can get, where you can get it.  Cya in the water.

MID APRIL

Large off season swell winding down through tomorrow - swell is 11 ft at 14-15 sec from 295 plus.  Look for northwest winds to blow for the next few days over the outer waters - could see possible offshore flow morning sessions this weekend - as high pressure builds some to our north and east and winds switch.   Northwest swell will stay in the 6-8 ft range through Sunday.  Dry conditions to prevail, maybe another chance of rain late next week.  Not much incoming from the southern ocean, NPac remains fairly active for the time of year sending in pulses of west/northwest swell.  My reports will be less frequent as we move into late spring and summer, the official off season in Nor Cal.  Cya in the water.  

APRIL

Hope you got some of that southwest swell that came ashore the past few days.  Certainly were some moments if you were in the right spot.  Northwest winds are blowing and look to blow all week.  Small pulses of mid period northwest swell and wind swell will be the primary source of surf.  Forecast is calling for an early spring heat event mid week with offshore winds - but not sure if these winds will transfer all the way to the coast just yet.  If they do, Wednesday looks like the best morning with this pattern.  After that, low pressure moving up from Baja will merge with a low pressure system in the Gulf and bring us a chance of showers from Friday through the weekend - along with southerly winds as the Baja low moves up towards So Cal.  Not much swell in the long term from the south or north.  Keeping an eye on the Southern Ocean for hints of south swell events to come.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast 3-27

Water temps have tumbled to 51 from 56 deg last Thursday.  Result of 72 hours of howling northwest winds.  Ah, spring in Nor Cal.  Junky north wind swell the rule through mid week - then by late next week a new northwest swell will arrive along with a series of southwest swells that will get larger as we move into April.  Winds forecast to mellow some by next Thursday or so.  Next couple days will be good days to get stuff done.  Weather models are hinting at a slight chance of rain by next weekend - will see if that happens.  Cya in the water.

Northwest Winds to blow

The last storm in the recent series is moving through the Bay Area today with rain, wind and scattered thunderstorms.  Northwest swell is building at 10ft @17 from 300.  Swell will peak tonight and slowly fade tomorrow.  Swell will stay elevated from the northwest the remainder of the week - combination of northwest swell and windswell.  Deepwater heights to remain in the 9-12ft range.  Northwest winds will really ramp up blowing 15-25kts for the remainder of the week as high pressure takes control.   Spots protected from the winds should be fun.  Cya in the water.

And Just Like That......

First day of Spring is this coming Saturday.  Strong storms of this past weekend already a distant memory as we are under warming high pressure with fairly light northwest winds for the next couple days.  North/West swell continues to drop, but still decent size this morning at 9ft @14 seconds from 300-310.  Swell will continue to fade into the weekend offering fun size surf with morning sessions probably featuring the best winds or places out of the northwest wind flow.  By the weekend, low pressure in the Gulf of Alaska will push the high pressure off to the east - bringing us a chance of rain from Friday through Monday.  Far north will likely see rain as early as Saturday night - Bay Area by Sunday.  Not a big storm and part of the weekend might be rideable.  New swell will build in from the west for Saturday and Sunday - offering deepwater swell in the 6-8ft range.  Beyond that - high pressure regains control and it's starting to look like this El Nino might be on it's last legs with the signal fading in the West Pacific and the season transitioning to Spring.  Then the focus will turn to the long term - whether this will be a multi year El Nino event or a one and done - sending us back into La Nina.  Let's hope it's the former.  Cya in the water.

El Nino Rules

Heavy rain, strong south winds and large surf (even larger on Sunday) the rule through this weekend. There are a few spots on our Coast that will work if you know them - otherwise - everything else will be a total mess.  High pressure forecast to make a return next week and dry us out and hopefully give us a few clean days of surf.  Time to grab it when you can because the northwest wind machine could be lurking around the corner as we move towards April.  The South Pacific has already fired a southwest swell in our direction (lost under the dominant west energy) - so let's hope El Nino still has the legs to give us a good summer.  Cya in the water.

MARCH - EL NINO WEATHER BACK FOR A RETURN ENGAGEMENT

If you like big surf, south winds blowing sideways - the next few days or longer will be for you.  The Pacific storm machine has set up again similar to what we saw in January - storms across the Dateline - with the first one impacting us today with mainly light rain and then the main event comes in late tomorrow on and off through Monday - with heaviest rain and wind SF north.  Large west swells will propagate through the waters for the next week as the ocean is quite agitated with all of the energy blowing from west to east.  So if you know those spots that like south winds and large swell - plenty to ride coming up.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast, March Looms, Where is El Nino?

I think by now everyone knows the surf has pumped this week.  Just as one swell was fading out today another new, long period west/northwest swell is pumping up and will peak tomorrow.  Saturday look for deepwater swell 12-14 ft at 17 seconds.  Rain is falling north of Sonoma as a front is passing thru - but we won't get any of that precip.  Wind on Saturday looks light northwest 5-15kt - perhaps fairly light in the AM.  Sunday, swell winds down to 8-10ft at 15 seconds.  Still good for double overhead at the north facing breaks.  Similar wind forecast for Sunday.  Swell looks to stay elevated thru next Wednesday as more, smaller west swells roll thru - keeping things in the 8-12ft range deepwater.  March 1st is usually the official end of the winter surfing season - but i think this year things are going to keep churning out in the Pacific well into spring.  El Nino is fading - but it's not dead and there is still plenty of warm water out in the Pacific to fuel storm and swell.  Longer term models hint we may see a pattern change late next week into the middle of March.  March can be a fairly wet month in a normal year - so let's hope we get some good rain events.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Large and stormy today with the next Pacific weather system making shore with rain and wind to come later.  Swell is about 11-12ft at 14 seconds from 295+.  Large storm driven wind swell is hitting far northern waters.  Things will begin to calm down overnight with lighter north to northwest winds forecast until Sunday.  Swell is going to stay elevated this weekend - 10-12 ft deepwater forecast - but with the lighter winds - especially mornings there should be some windows to ride.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast 2/11

Much hyped Mavericks swell is starting to show at the buoys - 9 ft at 20 seconds.  Winds are offshore at OB - it's big, clean and there for the taking.  Swell will build all day into the evening - peak tomorrow at 12-14ft at 18 seconds (deepwater).  Winds are forecast to remain light but might be a touch of northwest in it as the day goes on tomorrow.  Winds pick up further from the northwest on Saturday - 15-25kt range, turning more north on Sunday.  Swell will remain very solid all weekend - deepwater heights 12 ft @15 sec on Saturday and 9-11ft on Sunday.  Plenty to ride the next few days. No rain in the forecast for the extended.  El Nino has left the building it appears.  Very odd.   Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast/Swell Upgrade for Thursday

XXL swell due in now on Thursday.  Hurricane force winds of 50-70kts from a large storm in the Gulf of Alaska are whipping up a large swell train with confirmed seas right now 40-45ft way out in the Pacific.   Really good winds are forecast for Thursday and Friday.  Thursday in fact could be pretty epic for the regions premier big wave breaks.  Size will gradually fade into the weekend but remain solid in the 6-10ft range both Saturday and Sunday.  One more bout of rain on Wednesday and then we stay dry into next week.  Long range forecast models forecast a return to a stronger El Nino infused wet weather pattern around mid month.  So get some now.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast/Feb 1

El Nino takes another break this week with only two weak weather systems due in Tuesday and then again Wednesday.  Winds are easing after the huge event yesterday which saw a wind gust at Pt Reyes of 74 mph late afternoon, as the low pressure system that dropped down the coast has moved off into the southwest.  Large wind swell is winding down but still about 16ft at 11 seconds from 310 this morning.  Winds don't really look to improve until Thursday when light offshore flow is forecast for the morning. The two incoming weather events will bring south to southwest to west winds Tuesday and Wednesday.  West swell will jump back up on Thursday - deepwater heights forecast 11-14ft.  Smaller Friday, 8-10 ft.  Cya in the water.

Sleds for Sale

Parting ways with a few boards to make room for some others:

(2) Firewire Daniel Thomson Vanguards.  Both 6.2 stock dims.  both have deck pads.  $275 each.  

(1) Daniel Thomson Vader.  6.1 stock dims.  Deck pad.  $400.00

(1) Channel Islands Black Beauty - custom with no black band.  6.6 by 20 1/2 by 2 3/4 with 5 future fins, no dings, deckpad, leash, fins.  Like new.  $475

The Vanguards are in Marin.  If any of my readers are on the North Coast above Sea Ranch this weekend  - i'm in Gualala and the Vader and CI Black Beauty are with me.  email me at bnovick@mac.com if you're interested in any of these boards.  

As for the updated forecast - it's big and stormy!  Swell will begin to subside over the weekend to more mortal heights - keep an eye on the winds and you might be able to get a session or two in.  

Cya in the water.  

Updated Forecast/1-26

El Nino is taking a brief break leaving us with east winds this morning and probably tomorrow as well.  Fun swell in the water today - 5ft @10 seconds from 295.  That will increase late today as a new swell is already showing in our far northern waters at 6-8ft at 17-19 seconds seconds.  Solid swell tomorrow at 8-10 ft at 16 seconds.  Weather wise - that's all we get - then it's back to rain and southwest winds Thursday late thru the weekend - heaviest wind and rain north of Marin.  A much larger swell train hits Thursday and Friday - deep water heights back up in the 12-15ft range.  Get it the next two days.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast - More of the same

New storm system came ashore with one more on it's heels tonight into Saturday.  Swell is back up - 14ft at 15-17 seconds from 280 - big west swell.  Winds are south at 20kts plus.  Look for this large swell to persist through Saturday - then begin to subside Sunday & Monday.  Winds look like crap for Saturday sessions - west 15-25kts - a few nooks and crannies might be sort of rideable.  NW winds on Sunday, but light - might make things a go for the AM sessions.  Smaller surf to continue into next week with potential offshore/northeast winds forecast by about Tuesday as high pressure builds in and gives us a few days of dry weather and a break from the rain.  Won't last long - weather models suggest the ridge will break down and rain will return by about Thursday of next week.

On a personal note - very sad to hear about Marin Local Dan Dafoe who went missing this past Wednesday in the water off Fort Cronkhite.  I did not know Dan personally, but remember seeing him in the water over the years.  Prayers to his family, friends and all the surfers that knew him.

No break in the weather or swell ahead.....

Storm systems are lined up all the way across the Pacific to Japan.  Look for rain to continue through next week - on and off - a day or two between storms.  As such - winds will fluctuate between south as the systems come ashore switching to the southwest/west/northwest as fronts pass.  Rain and mountain snow to keep going.  Large swell events to continue on and off - with the next bigger swell event slated for this weekend - with deepwater heights going back into the 14-18ft range far north - a bit smaller Bay Area Saturday/Sunday.  Check your winds - protected spots will be best - in fact Santa Barbara is probably your best option this year - most of the swell and not as much weather.  Cya in the water.

El Nino Rules

As forecast months ago and fully expected - January arrived and El Nino is in full control of our weather and swell.  Pacific storms continue to line up across the Pacific - all the way back to Japan fueled by an ocean/atmospheric connection that in many ways has now even eclipsed the 1997 El Nino in terms of strength.  Remains to be seen if we see the same copius amounts of rainfall we had with the 97' event - but if we stay at our current pace no reason that won't happen.  Deep water heights running around 16-20ft today at 15+ seconds.  Heights will dip for the weekend - back into the 8-12ft range mostly - but still large.  Swell looks to run back up starting next week.  Winds are going to be north/northwest/some east (fairly light) the next few days - so spots sheltered from the wind, and can shape the swell will be best.  South to southeast winds will return late in the weekend as another storm system takes aim on the West Coast.  That system will be more organized - until then on and off chances of rain with weaker impulses moving through the flow towards the West Coast.  Cya in the water.