What appeared as a rather insignificant south swell on the models a week or so back turned into a nice size south over the weekend, which is continuing today. Buoys still showing deep water heights around 2.5 - 3ft @15-17 seconds from 190-200. Swell will begin to wind down tomorrow, but still have some energy now and then at south facing spots. There is another NZ swell inbound for Wednesday/Thursday, models might have this one under sized as well, we will see as it comes into range. For now - expecting deep water heights around 2-3 ft @ 15-17 seconds from 195-200 deg. Nothing on the books yet from the N Pac. Waiting for fall to start. There is a vast pool of warm water throughout the Pacific right now, a very strong El Niño continues to build and from all indications will rival or surpass the strongest El Niño events on record. What that means for our weather in CA and beyond, remains to be seen once fall rolls into winter. No two El Niños are alike, but the biggest events tend to bring a lot more precipitation into CA and the Southwest. All will be revealed soon enough! Cya in the water.
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