South winds blowing on most of the Coast today as a storm system is circulating just off the West Coast due to move south and inland starting Friday. Minimal rain chances except along the immediate coastline as the main movement of the storm will be to the south. New long period swell will build overnight 4-6 ft @ 19 seconds while an older northwest swell fades 3-4 @12 seconds. Swell direction around 300 degrees. Winds will shift strongly to the north through the holiday weekend - creating large windswell of 11-13ft by Monday/Tuesday. Background, smaller northwest swells linger through the next five days or so. These will all be longer period northwest swells. Late next week, pattern could see a major shift out in the Pacific as the jetstream looks to get robust coming off Japan at 200kt - this should support storm development as well as a rainy pattern again potentially for CA. La Niña has faded, we are in ENSO neutral now moving towards El Niño later this year (summer). Will be interesting to see if we have a late winter run of weather and swell that holds into April and May. All will be revealed over the next couple weeks! Cya in the water.
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