Happy Thanksgiving. Northwest swell left overs today 4-6 ft at 13 sec and some south in the water 2ft at 15. Northwest swell direction about 295. South 185. Large long period west swell has been hitting the Papa Buoy since around 9pm last night. Looks like it peaked around 20-23 ft at 17 sec - quite solid. That is the swell for late tonight and Friday - which will equal double overhead and bigger waves at north/west facing beaches, reefs and points. Winds pretty light today and tomorrow - then might pick up strongly though the weekend as a few weak weather systems move through the region as high pressure exits. A week ago it looked like we might get a lot of rain and snow this coming week - but models have trended drier with each run. Probably going to see some rain - especially north of the Bay Area - Sunday night into Monday and then again mid week. Either way - plenty of surf on tap for the next 4-5 days. Biggest wild card through the period will be wind direction. Get some and cya in the water.
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