Large West swell filling in today - in the 8-10 ft range at 15-17 seconds from about 285. This swell event will peak today, be on the downslope tomorrow (but still big at nw facing breaks). Look for another shot of West swell (270-300) to hit Thursday and stick around through Saturday. This will be back in the doubleoverhead range for Thursday and probably Friday, smaller Sat. Wind wise - light winds right now (in fact have turned to the NW at buoys) - and look for light winds Thursday morning before the south winds ramp up in advance of a large storm due to move ashore Friday into Saturday morning. Look for NW winds Saturday afternoon after front passage and probably light NW flow on Sunday morning. Sunday looks dry. Looks like we have more weather headed in next week as we move into March, traditionally the end of the Winter surfing season in Nor Cal. However, this year with El Nino still in force - look for waves to continue as the storm corridor stays open probably well into April. This should also fuel the southern hemi action in April. I've tracked about 26 storm/swell events this Fall/Winter - which is about on par for a mild El Nino year. I think by now we all realize how good any size El Nino is for surf around these shores. Wouldn't it be nice if it keeps our wonderful spring time nw winds in check this year? cya in the water and thanks to Sean for the nice OB picture.
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