Friday, September 23, 2011
First day of Autumn officially. Northwest swell at 7.7 ft at 12 seconds - light winds (fog winds) at coast - blowing northwest at the outer buoys. Reinforcing shots of northwest swell will keep waves head to overhead at north facing breaks through the weekend. Mid period, not long period stuff like yesterday morning. Complex weather pattern above - low pressure rotating around by Pt Conception will drag moisture and possible thunderstorms up from the southwest today. By Sunday, a low pressure system dropping down from the Gulf of Alaska - will give the northern 2/3 of CA shots of rain or showers - probably a chance all the way down to the Golden Gate. Winds look suspect all weekend - could vary between w/sw. Check it early for best conditions. Waves on tap if you know where to look. Next northwest swell looks to show next Tues/Wed. More on that Monday. Cya in the water.
at 10:40 AM