XL Swell North, Smaller South

Large swell continues to impact spots north of Bodega Bay, buoys reading 12-13ft@11-13 seconds from around 310,  It looks like most forecasts have missed how big this swell would be.  It's actually two swells combining, a new Gulf Swell at around 6 ft@12 seconds and bigger wind swell.   Surf looks to stay on the larger side through the weekend and into early next week.  Winds are not ideal, mix of south to southwest wind for Bay Area and north to northwest wind Jenner to Cape Mendocino.  High pressure will be the dominant weather system for the next week - with much warmer temps again and possible offshore winds early next week.   Out in the Pacific, season is in swing with weather systems coming across the upper latitudes.   We remain at the tail end of our dry season but that will change later in October.  Plenty to ride the next few days, just keep an eye on the winds.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAT 9-22, N PAC TO STIR

Good size wind swell in the water today hitting best SF north - northern buoys showing this energy well at around 8-10ft @10-11 seconds, steep angle, 315 plus.   Winds are light, southerly for the majority of the central and northern coast.  We have our first decent longer period swell coming in mid week - should peak around 7-8ft@14 seconds.   This is from a gale moving through the Northern Gulf of Alaska.   Swell will build in Tuesday night, peak Wednesday and slow fade Thursday.  Biggest waves SF to the north.  Winds not bad, as we would expect in late September, should remain fairly light.  Until that swell rolls in, wind swell will hang on for at least another day.    Storm track looks to remain active, but displaced up in the N Pac as high pressure dome sits off and over the West Coast for a few more days.   The pattern is looking better for late September.   For those up early, Orion, the winter constellation, is up in the morning sky now around 5am, always a great sign fall is arriving and will continue to be higher in the sky, earlier each night, as we move into October and beyond.   Cya in the water.   

UPDATED FORECAST 9-14, WAITING ON FALL

Not much going on the next 7-10 days - mostly fluctuations of wind swell from the north and minor south and southwest swells hovering around 1-3ft (deepwater).   Models hinting at the potential for more northwest swell around mid month, so hang in there.   Until then, get what you can!  Cya in the water. 

UPDATED FORECAST SEP 4, NW SWELL FOR THUR/FRI

 Quick update this morning - first northwest ground swell of the early season due in tomorrow and Friday - looks like we can expect deepwater heights 4-6ft@15-16 seconds from 295.   Might come in a touch bigger north of Bodega Bay.   Winds look fairly light the next few days as well as high pressure sits overhead.   Cya in the water.  

SEPTEMBER 1!

Welcome to the 2024/2025 season!  Made it through another summer and for the most part a very wave starved one at that.   Early season is already showing signs of life in Central and N Cal - small nw swell has been moving through the waters since early yesterday, peaking around 5@13 from 310.  Smaller today - 3-4ft @11 seconds.  Another similar size swell will build in Monday night and run for a couple days.   Background southerly swells look to continue through next week - nothing bigger than 2ft.   Winds:  Not that bad other than Monday night into Tuesday when high pressure starts to build again.  This will be mostly over the outer waters.  Beyond, winds look to remain relatively light which is normal as we start meteorological fall (Sept 1).   Very weak La Niña for the season ahead, depending on what long term sources you read, CA looks to be in for an average wet season which will probably deliver the same for swell production.   Cya in the water.