Wednesday, July 3, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST FOR 4TH OF JULY

Large dome of high pressure is parked over CA which will continue to bring record high temps to the Central/Northern part of the state through the weekend and beyond.  Meanwhile, near the coast, very shallow marine layer should keep things cooler through the period and bring the masses to the ocean to beat the extreme heat.   Large northwest wind swell has filled in since yesterday - peaking right now at Pt Arena Buoy at 14ft@11 seconds from a very steep 330 degrees.   Should continue through the day, start to fade the rest of the week.  From the south, we have a couple of southwest swells inbound - the first a "primer" swell for Thursday into early Friday - likely to peak around 2ft@17 seconds from 190.   The 2nd swell, which is the main event - fills in slowly Friday into the weekend - likely peaking around 3ft @17-18 seconds - also from 190.   The northwest wind machine is being shut down from the extreme high pressure ridge - so after today winds should be light through the extended period - ideal for an inbound south swell to move up the coast and fill in without northwest wind or swell reducing the size.   Should be a decent weekend for south swell fans especially if you live or frequent a summer swell spot.   Happy 4th of July, be safe out there and don't be a kook that starts a fire somewhere.   Cya in the water.  

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