Saturday, March 30, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST 3-30

 Another round of winter storms impacting the state - last in the series moving through So Cal today and exiting the region.    Behind the low pressure, high pressure will quickly build in and bring strong north winds for the next few days down the coast, further tumbling water temps in the process which are hovering around 50 in far Nor Cal and about 53 Bay Area.   Pulse of west swell is in the water around 8-10 ft @12 seconds from 280 degrees.  North to northwest winds all week, it will feel more like spring as well.   Next chance of rain appears to be late next weekend, but very light amounts.   Don't think we are quite done with the rainy season so expect some April showers.  Swell will gradually fade into mid week, with a very small south swell mid week as well - likely 2 ft @14 sec, and probably lost under all the chop from the upcoming winds.   Cya in the water.  

Sunday, March 24, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST 3-24

 Storm system sweeping through and out of CA today as winter keeps rolling on.   Expect a couple more systems to come in for the upcoming week, especially Central CA to Oregon border.  Steeper angle northwest swell in the water at 9-10ft@12 sec from 300.  Biggest north of SF.  Northwest winds will really ramp up today as the front moves out - winds 15-25knots gusting to 30 knots.  Lighter northwest winds Monday/Tuesday, then turn southwest ahead of a weather system for Wed/Thurs.  Swell fades into tomorrow then a pair of west swells come in for Tuesday and Wednesday, getting XL by Thursday when we push back up to 14-16ft.  Biggest swell north of SF as usual.   No south swell in the water this coming week but keeping an eye on storm activity in the Southern Hemisphere.   Plenty of waves, check your winds and cya in the water. 

Monday, March 18, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST 3-18

 Mostly light winds this week as high pressure remains in control through today.   Starting tomorrow and into mid week, high will push off to the east as the N Pac and Jetstream begin to re organize, bringing wet weather back to the West Coast starting Thursday for parts north of Sonoma County, and Bay Area Friday into Saturday.   Cooler temps will accompany a series of systems.   Surf wise, it's staying small for the most part - smaller long period northwest swell rolls into tonight into Tuesday - 2-4@18 sec - fattening up some for Wednesday, around 5ft @15 sec - this is deepwater swell.   Small early season south swell in the water Wednesday and Thursday - at 2ft@17 seconds.   Little tease from Down Under.  Winds turn more southwest for Thursday/Friday once the rain starts up.   Cya in the water.  

Wednesday, March 13, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST 3-13

Storm track is pulling off CA - should give us a break for the next 7-10 days, as high pressure builds in over the NE Pacific, with low pressure in the Desert Southwest - forming what weather experts call "a rex block pattern" which is a very stagnant set up.   N Pacific still active but most of the energy now moves west of the Dateline.   XXL swell is hitting far Nor Cal this morning - buoys were 15-17ft @15 seconds from 305 degrees. Much smaller Central and So Cal - around 8ft@13 sec.   North/offshore winds will ramp up on Thursday due in part to the gradient difference between the low/high pressure - swell will gradually wind down into the weekend and winds will become much lighter Sat/Sun.  For sure looking like a springtime set up.   Get it while you can.   We do have some activity Down Under from the Southern Hemisphere - but much of that energy will focus on So Cal and Santa Cruz - and pretty small for the most part.   El Niño is fading, La Niña on the horizon for late year into next year - but it will take a while for all the energy created by this strong El Niño to dissipate - so some swell production in the N Pac into April/May very likely.   Cya in the water.

Thursday, March 7, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST FOR MARCH 7TH

Looking a lot like an early Spring pattern setting up.  Northwest winds are howling from about SF to Pt Arena. The ocean is responding accordingly with rising, large, short period wind swell and tumbling water temps due to upwelling.  The good news, short lived blow today, should ease off tomorrow (a bit).   Wind waves today north of Bodega/outer waters - 12-14ft, with a very small northwest swell lost underneath at 3-4ft @13 seconds.  Northwest winds 25-30 kts.   Wind drops to 10-15kts tomorrow as a new, mid period northwest swell comes in - but only at 4-6ft @14 seconds.  Rain returns Saturday - mostly north of SF - and will last through Monday.   Southwest winds will be on the rise Saturday/Sunday into Monday - making a mess of things.  Large Northwest swell steams in on Sunday at 12-14ft - but doubtful anything will be manageable with the wind except perhaps for Central Cal and further south.  Swell angle on most of this energy is going to be pretty steep - 300 plus degrees.   Enjoy a couple days of sun and then it's back to the wet this weekend.  Cya in the water.  

Friday, March 1, 2024

MARCH 1

 March 1st is historically the end of the "good" wave season in Northern/Central Cal.   This March, all bets are off - right now we have a macking swell inbound from a huge area of low pressure sitting and spinning in the Gulf of Alaska - which will bring the well advertised heavy snow event to the Sierra and most all higher elevations of Northern California.   Expect to see accumulations of snow even at lower elevations - below 500ft late tonight and Saturday.   Few flakes at sea level possible north of Ft Bragg.  Unfortunately for the inbound swell - brutal sw to west winds are tearing things up, so don't expect it to be clean throughout the weekend.  In fact, not really seeing much improvement in the wind through next Tuesday.  Such has been the story this winter as far as surfing goes.   Swell will stay XXL through Sunday, gradually fade into next week.   More rain on the way on and off next week as well.  Wish i  had a better forecast - but that's what we got.   Cya in the water?