Thursday, November 24, 2022

THANKSGIVING FORECAST

Happy Thanksgiving.  Northwest swell left overs today 4-6 ft at 13 sec and some south in the water 2ft at 15.  Northwest swell direction about 295.  South 185.  Large long period west swell has been hitting the Papa Buoy since around 9pm last night.   Looks like it peaked around 20-23 ft at 17 sec - quite solid.  That is the swell for late tonight and Friday - which will equal double overhead and bigger waves at north/west facing beaches, reefs and points.  Winds pretty light today and tomorrow - then might pick up strongly though the weekend as a few weak weather systems move through the region as high pressure exits.  A week ago it looked like we might get a lot of rain and snow this coming week - but models have trended drier with each run.   Probably going to see some rain - especially north of the Bay Area - Sunday night into Monday and then again mid week.  Either way - plenty of surf on tap for the next 4-5 days.  Biggest wild card through the period will be wind direction.   Get some and cya in the water.  

Thursday, November 17, 2022

UPDATED FORECAST - 11-17

Mid size long period swell filling in today - 5-8ft at 15-16 seconds.  From around 295 deg.  Mostly clean conditions and small to mid size swell through Monday.   Bit of an uptick in winds tonight into Friday - might be offshore at the coast - light winds through weekend.   Could be transitioning back to a wet period early next week so get on it while we have this nice break in the weather.  Cya in the water.   

Sunday, November 6, 2022

NEXT LARGE SWELL IN THE CUE....

Papa Buoy showing 15-16 ft with long periods this AM - (Oregon Buoy even bigger at 18-20 ft) this is the next swell set to come ashore late today/tonight and be in full force on Monday.   Storm door is open with rain, wind, mountain snow will to accompany the swell making for pretty challenging conditions from SF to the Oregon border.  Nooks and crannies might have some windows for the next few days as the XL swell looks to stick around.  Improving conditions around mid week with smaller swell and lighter winds.   Cya in the water!