UPDATED FORECAST - 10-26

Powerful new NW/WNW swell will plow into N Cal late Friday into the weekend from an intense storm and remnants of Typhoon Lan that cranked out huge surf near the Aleutians for the past 36 hours or so.  Probably see some forerunners very late Friday in far Nor Cal - game on everywhere else by Saturday morning - showing biggest late afternoon and evening Saturday.   Probably looking for double and triple overhead sets by dark on Saturday and possibly larger and best north/northwest facing breaks.  Swell will peak Sunday morning with continuing double to triple overhead surf. Swell direction about 290-310.   Decent southwest swell will roll in at the same time from 205 to 220 - good for chest to head high sets at south facing breaks but mostly lost under the more dominant northwest swell.   Looking for pretty ideal winds the next few says - especially for AM sessions with no wind or light offshore wind.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST - OCT 14TH - LARGE NW LATE WEEK

Light winds continue through mid week with small north/northwest swell along with an incoming southwest swell starting Tuesday.  Then our first large northwest swell of the season comes in (along with weather) - starting Thursday.  

Breaking things down like this:
Today - light north winds most of the day - deepwater swell about 3-4ft at 9-10 sec
Tues - NW winds 10kts - deepwater swell 4-5 at 10-12 and new south showing 3ft @18 sec
Wed - NW winds 10kt - deepwater swell from northwest about 5ft at 13 and south 3ft at 18.
Thursday - southwest winds, chance of rain - winds 10-20kts - deepwater 9-12ft from northwest.
Friday - NW winds 10-20 kts - northwest swell 13-16ft.
Northwest swell will begin a slow fade into and through next weekend.   Good chance of rain Thursday into Friday - for sure the North Bay will get a decent hit which will help the fires and lesser amounts Bay Area south.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST - OCT 10TH

Decent run of surf should continue through the weekend.   Current NW swell is easing out today but still good for head to overhead waves at northwest facing breaks today.   A new mid period NW swell will show mid week - pushing surf back up to overhead range at NW facing breaks.   Meanwhile, southwest swell trains look to continue towards the weekend with a fun size SW (200-220) from the 13th to 15th and then another pulse for the 17th to 19th.   North to northwest winds will increase again mid week and last through the weekend - strongest over the outer waters and far north.   Around the Bay Area these winds could take a more NE or offshore component some mornings.   The increase in winds will not help all the wildfires burning around Northern California.    We could use some rain to help firefighters and nothing really on the horizon for the next 7-10 days.   Cya in the water.  

OCTOBER

Calendar says Oct 1, but the conditions look a bit more like late April or May.   Strong, gale force winds are blowing down the coast from Cape Mendocino south, making a general mess of everything.  Short period windswell the rule and that looks to continue into the week.   I'm not seeing much hope for anything until next Friday (forerunners Thursday) when a steep angled south swell comes in from down under.   This swell is the result of a strong storm last week and should have some decent size (deepwater 3-4 ft with long periods), but the angle of approach might limit it's solid impacts 190-195 degrees.   However, south facing spots should have size and if all goes as forecast this could be a pretty solid swell event.    No major swells of interest from the North Pacific forecast, however we could see some energy middle of the following week - as things remain fairly active in the Gulf, but most of the energy has been pushing into BC.   Winds might get lighter towards Thursday of next week which would limit it's shredding impacts on the incoming south swell train up the coast.   Cya in the water.