Saturday, December 19, 2015
Frontal passage early this morning with widespread rain throughout the region. Northwest winds are already blowing early as the next large NW swell begins to roll in. Already showing 12 ft at 14 seconds far north - will be in later today and hang around through tomorrow. Swell peaks tomorrow at 10-15 feet. SW winds tomorrow as another system comes ashore with rain in the afternoon. Winds go NW again on Monday behind that passing front - swell remains 9-12 ft at 14 seconds. NW winds will blow through Wednesday as we remain in a low pressure influenced environment - enhanced by El Nino - with storms lined up across the Pacific and dropping north to south along CA bringing rain, winds, mountain snow through Christmas. By now you can probably see the pattern for the winter - rain, swell, wind. Repeat. We still have the heart of winter to come and i expect January thru February to be very active. No shortage of waves to ride - just need to find places tucked in from whatever wind direction is active each day. Cya in the water.
at 7:57 AM