Strong storm system will move across Central and Nor Cal later today producing 1-3in of rain and heavy snow in the Sierra before exiting sometime late Sunday. Mix of long period south swell in the water (2.5@17 from 200) and north west swell (5.6@14 from 300). Winds are south and will get stronger as the day goes on and the front moves through. This storm will bring a shorter period, larger, west swell in on Sunday - likely 10ft@11-12 seconds. More rain, bigger waves north of the Bay Area for the next few days. That west swell will gradually fade into next week while pulses of south swell continue at 2-3ft @14 seconds. Winds will begin to ramp up again from the northwest once this storm system moves out of the region. Cya in the water.
