Yesterday morning the PAPA Buoy peaked with a reading of 20ft@17 seconds - biggest so far in this early season of north swells. This morning, Pt Arena showing 19ft@16 seconds. A very large, N Pacific Low has occupied the Northeastern Pacific for a few days now and will continue to send large waves to the West Coast. Very low pressure combined with strong winds - all of it moving in our direction creates a very dynamic wave scape in the ocean. Ongoing rain and mountain snow for most of N Cal through at least Saturday, then the skies clear, winds turn more offshore and we dry out. Winds will really start to nuke on Sunday and then we will also have a very large steep angled north wind swell in the water too. So if you like big, next few days for you. Otherwise, find spots that are sheltered from all this massive energy and you'll probably score. Cya in the water.
