Thursday, February 22, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST 2-22

It's been a wild couple weeks and I  for one was not in the water much, just dealing with storm after storm hitting the North Coast.  Finally some nice days, chance to dry out, get in the water and catch some waves.  Surf was mostly fun size today - about 4-6 ft @11 sec from 300 degrees.  New swell is inbound for Friday/Saturday - deep water 8-10ft @14 sec on Friday, gradually fading into Saturday and then another long period northwest swell runs in Sunday, 4-6@18 seconds which sticks around until Monday.   Winds look good through Sunday - light northeast to southeast.   Nice weather for the most part, but then things begin to break down again starting next week - probably about mid week on as the jet stream will once again take aim at CA.   Larger swell also comes in Tuesday at 12-14 ft, but by then the northwest winds will be chugging over the outer waters and potentially near shore making a mess of things.  For now, nice reprieve for a few days, some decent conditions and fun surf.  Cya in the water. 



Saturday, February 10, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST 2-10

 High pressure overhead for a few days giving us a welcome break from last week's storms.  Don't get too comfy, as the long term forecast is now showing another potentially impactful series of storms/atmospheric rivers to hit from Feb 17-23.   More on that by the middle of next week.  Surf wise, lingering northwest swell around today - 6-7@12 seconds.   New west swell builds tonight and will be nicely solid Sunday with deepwater at 8-9ft@17 seconds.  Swell direction around 296 deg.   That swell will slowly subside but linger until about Wednesday of next week.  Winds look pretty light through next Wednesday as well.  Good time to get wet if you've been out of the water for a while due to the weather.   My sense is by next Thursday things will rapidly start to deteriorate as the storm door opens and we get hit with another El Niño infused group of storms.   El Niño is on its last legs and we will start to transition back to La Niña by mid spring - but until then, plenty of energy out in the Pacific for the Jetstream to work with.   Cya in the water.  

Thursday, February 1, 2024

UPDATED FORECAST 2-1, NO SURF FOR YOU!

 In between atmospheric rivers at the moment - strong storm came ashore early Wednesday am packing very strong winds and torrential rain in spots.  Swell has come in behind the storm - running about 14-17ft from 280 degrees.  It's going to stay on the large side through the weekend, very messy with the winds blowing strongly from the south/south east for the most part until next Tuesday.   Chance of rain next couple days and then the 2nd atmospheric river comes in Sunday into Monday.  This one will take a bit more southerly track - so SF, Santa Cruz and points south will see the greatest impacts.  You might find a few moments over the next 5-7 days at certain spots depending on winds, rain, swell - but it sure doesn't look pretty!   Cya in the water.