UPDATED FORECAST FOR NEW YEARS WEEKEND

Storm door is open and going to continue to dump rain on us through first week of January.  Swell has come down but still quite solid this am at 10ft @12 seconds.  Swell will drop further Friday to 7-9ft and then crank back up quickly Friday night into Saturday at 10-13ft at 15 seconds, building further Saturday at 12-14 ft at 14 seconds.  Swell direction through the period mostly west at 280 to 300 degrees.  Winds will go west to northwest strongly over the weekend with rain, heavy at times through Monday.   South to southwest winds the norm until Saturday night.  Spots that like south wind and northwest wind the call.   Plenty of swell around, tricky with all the wind, rain and swell.   Winter!   Happy New Year and cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 12-21 - HAPPY WINTER SOLSTICE!

 Another clean, but small morning - west swell around 2-4 ft at 14-15 seconds.  Winds are light northeast to east.   King Tides coming up this Friday and Saturday so plan your sessions accordingly!   We will see an increase in west swell tonight, 2-3 ft @19 seconds, filling in on Thursday to 4ft@17 seconds.   Bit more swell coming Friday as size gets up to 5-7ft at 14 seconds.   These smaller west swells mostly 270-280 degrees.   The next real swell starts Christmas Day - where we could see swell heights jump back into the 10-12ft range.   If you look at the long range models - all are now starting to lean into a very stormy post Christmas week into the first part of January - as the jet stream is going to do something it's not done in a few winters - consolidate all the way across the Pacific east to west - around 35north - with copious amounts of rain potentially as a atmospheric river sets up somewhere between N Cal and Oregon.   Certainly spots north of Sonoma have the potential to see a lot of weather, but Bay Area/Central Cal should get in on the action as well.   A lot of messy, large storm surf will probably result - so enjoy the next 3-5 days as winds will be relatively light with increasing swell.   We need the rain and high elevation snow so it's good to see on the horizon.  Happy Holidays and cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 12-12

XL northwest swell peaked overnight - around 17-18 ft with long periods at buoys north of Jenner.   Large, at times clean, swell roared in and is starting a gradual downward trend today but still solid this morning at 14ft @14 seconds.  Like many of the swells so far this season - fairly steep angle at 315 degrees which for SF will be shadowed some by Pt Reyes.   North of Pt Reyes, not as much.    The trend this week will be for declining swell - back into the fun zone with ideal winds setting up most of the week up and down the coast as high pressure/blocking high establishes itself over the region.  This will also shunt the storm track to the north through at least next weekend giving us no rain for the next 7 days.   It will be very cold all week, with light winds and water temps will remain on the chilly side.   Cya in the water!  

UPDATED FORECAST 12-2

 Back to back swells through about Monday will keep surf in the overhead to well overhead range.   Bigger north of Bodega Bay.  Tomorrow a new storm system comes in bringing rain and south winds to the region.   SW winds through Sunday turning west on Monday.  Not ideal.  Much lighter winds forecast from Tuesday on - but also not much swell either as we will be between systems and storm producing events in the N Pac.  I'm off next week - back on Dec 10, resume forecasts after.   Cya in the water!