40 ft at 16 seconds!

Papa Buoy is showing 40ft at 16 seconds - let that sink in for a bit.   That is in vicinity of where our current storm is bottoming out (or bomb cyclone) as the forecasters like to call it - when the pressure drops  24 millibars in 24 hours, which our current storm almost doubled that!   Anyway - that's the swell inbound for tonight and as we start the week.  Not that surfing conditions our ideal - it's a mess out there and probably crazy to drive anywhere on the Coast.   Give it a few days as high pressure looks to re build mid week.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 10-23 - BIG AND STORMY

 Super charged N Pac Jetstream is sending a wave of early season storms to the West Coast.  La Nina is back for year two, but because it's displaced further West this season, the storm track is riding up and over and delivering much needed rain and snow to CA.  It's also delivering XXL surf, south winds and slop.  The next giant swell train lands Sunday night - 18-20ft at 18 seconds with SW winds and an atmospheric river (AR) event, first decent one of the season and best we've seen in a long while - that will deliver copious amounts of rain to the entire region.   Swell will max out Monday - 23-25ft at 18 seconds!  Slow fade into mid week when high pressure finally builds in giving us a break.   Next Wednesday might be the first surf day for many (most likely for me) when we get north winds and more mortal size surf in the 9-11 ft range.  Until then, there are some spots that will harness this kind of size and swell if you know where to look.  Cya in the water.  

UPDATED FORECAST 10-11

It's windy and raw over the open ocean this morning as north to northwest winds drive down CA along with a dry "inside slider" cold front.   Ocean has responded and wind swell has jacked up 10ft plus and water temps are tumbling far north - already back to 52 and falling.   Look for big wind swell and some northwest swell mixed in all week - not clean unless you hit a south facing point that can handle the wind and sort out of the confusion.  Not really seeing any break in the winds the entire week, no rain in sight either as high pressure maintains control over CA.   Cya in the water.