BACK TO BACK TO BACK LONG PERIOD SWELLS

First in a series of large west swells hitting the outer buoys at 15ft @14 seconds.  Swell will fill in all afternoon and overnight and be quite solid in the am.  Next swell will quickly follow on New Years Day, 11-13ft @ 21 seconds - very solid with a reinforcing shot New Years Night at 14-15ft @19 seconds.  Swell will stay solid through Friday, fading some Friday into the 8-10 ft range.  Wind forecasts are still predicting strong north to northwest winds, but feel the majority of the wind will be in our outer waters.   Near shore could see lighter winds each morning this week.  Keep an eye on it.  Plenty to ride, not much rain this week as high pressure holds on.   Most rain should stay north of Cape Mendo.   Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST, CHRISTMAS EVE

Small northwest left overs today, surf running around 8ft at 12 seconds from 310.   Winds are light northwest and will switch to southwest this pm as a new front comes ashore bringing rain.   New swell will arrive tomorrow and be quite solid from the get go - 8-10ft @19 seconds.  Pulsing up further on Thursday at 12-14ft @17 seconds.  Size will then drop Friday, 6-8ft.  Tomorrow should be pretty epic at certain breaks that like northeast winds and large swells.  Classic December day.  North winds forecast Thursday and Friday.   Light west winds next Saturday.  Chances of rain here and there through the week.  Happy Holidays to all.   Cya in the water.  

LARGE AND STAYING LARGE

Our current west/northwest swell is maxing today at 14-15ft @15-18seconds from 290.  It will stay large into tomorrow and Sunday before a gradual fade Monday and Tuesday.  Storm track is just to the north of Sonoma County which will bring bouts of rain through Saturday along with south to southeast winds.  Winds may change to the northwest on Sunday and then blow from the east Monday and southeast for next Tuesday.   In short, winter in Nor Cal - plenty of surf, some tricky winds but plenty of spots rideable if you know your locations.  Cya in the water.

UPDATED FORECAST

Stormy pattern about start up again Friday and last through Sunday.   Winds are clean this morning as they have been the past couple of mornings with east to southeast flow.  Mid period WNW swell peaking today at around 6ft 13sec from 310.   New, larger long period swell will start to build into Friday and peak overnight at 10-12 ft @17 seconds.  This swell will have a more westerly direction.   Plenty of size around Saturday as period drops to 13 seconds.  Swell slowly fades Sunday into Monday.   Winds will remain southeast to south through Saturday.  Changing to southwest Saturday night and light northwest for Sunday.   More rain forecast for perhaps Tuesday of next week.  Go surf and cya in the water.