AUTUMN TOMORROW

Autumn Equinox tomorrow.  Fall officially arrives.  Swell this week from a few sources.  New Zealand southern hemisphere most of the week.  Size will be between 1.5 and 2 ft - periods 15-17 seconds.  Most lost under the more dominant north swell and local wind swell.  Look for wind swell Monday from 8-10ft at 11 seconds.  Period and size to increase Tuesday at 9-12 ft at 12 seconds and a larger shot by Wednesday, 13-15 ft.   Most if not all of this energy will be due to ferocious north to northwest winds over the outer waters and well to our north - with winds 20-30kt and 40kt gusts.   Fire danger will elevate mostly in Mendo and Sonoma counties.  Further north, less extremes due to wetting early season rains.  Will get hot again at least until late week, then another low pressure system will drop down from the north cooling things off and increasing our chances of rain again.  Plenty of swell on tap, plenty of wind too.  Cya in the water.

SMALL SWELLS UPCOMING WEEK, CHANCE OF RAIN

Early season storm is dropping south out of BC this morning and will bring rain to most of Northwestern CA through tomorrow.  Rain may not make it all the way to the Bay Area, but points from Marin north should see some beneficial early season moisture.  Swell should stay small to mid size this week with mid period northwest swells the predominant source of energy.  Winds may be problematic shifting between south/southwest and northwest before and prior to front passage.   By mid week, rain chance will end and we will dry out.  No large swells on the horizon yet, but the storm track is getting busy and low pressure systems are moving through.   Check the winds, should be some swell around - cya in the water.

RUN OF SMALL SWELLS THIS WEEK.....

Couple of swells in the water this AM.  Swell from former Hurricane Jeanette is 3ft at 11 sec.   Forerunners of a couple New Zealand swells are showing - 2-3 at 18-20 seconds.  Small wind swell 3 at 9 sec.  The NZ swells will fill in today and tomorrow and hang around a good part of the coming week - joined by another NZ swell mid week to reinforce.  Should also see a shot of northwest wind swell around mid week - 5ft at 9-10 seconds.  The NZ swells are all approaching from around 210 degrees plus.  North swell will be from 310.   Northwest winds look likely for most of the upcoming week - but early morning sessions might have some moments at the right spots.   Basically small scale surf all week, but something to ride.   Cya in the water.

SEPTEMBER

Welcome to the 2019/2020 season.  Made it through another summer.   Couple swells in the water this AM.   Small southwest swell with periods 15-17 secs, around 2-3 ft.  There is also a small west/northwest swell from 300 degrees in the water - about 2ft.  Small wind swell at 2-3ft.   SW is certainly the dominant swell in the area.   Looking ahead to mid week, have our first northwest swell of September on the horizon for mid week.  Forerunners Tuesday night at 2ft at 20 seconds.   Filling in Wednesday at 3-5ft at 19 seconds.  Period should start to drop Thursday into Friday and fade out.   Good sign however that the N Pac is already starting to wake up and come online.  Winds are light this am with fog along the coast.  May see an up tick in northwest winds over the next couple afternoons.   But strongest over the outer waters.   cya in the water.