Updated Forecast

Large long period northwesterly swell is filling in this afternoon - right now 10-12 ft deepwater - at 17 sec from 285.  Swell will peak overnight and remain large tomorrow.  Winds are light right now but picking up from the northwest as the weak front that gave us some additional rain has pushed through.  Look for a break in the weather the next few days and then a renewed chance of rain about Thursday lasting until Saturday.  Better chance of rain in the North Bay.  Swell to stay elevated most of the week ahead as the North Pacific remains very active pumping out weather and swell for the remainder of the period.  Winds are going to be highly variable - s to sw when fronts come ashore, changing to west or northwest with each passage.  Very active October - so stay tuned.  Cya in the water.

Some rain, more swell

A series of Pacific Weather Systems set to impact our Coast starting today - south to southwest winds will be up - with another solid west/northwest swell lining up for Wednesday and Thursday - pushing deepwater heights back up in the 8-12 ft range Wed - 10-15ft Thursday - biggest north of the Bay Area.    Another round of shorter period west swell due in for the weekend - which will push heights back into the 6-10ft range on Saturday, easing some on Sunday.  Light rain tonight - then a break - next chance of rain comes in Friday and then again next Monday.  So we're in an unsettled pattern for the next five days at least.  Winds will vary based on incoming fronts - s/se winds to start, shift to north/northwest after front passage.  Cleanest day of the week looks like maybe Thursday morning.  But with these patterns - always worth checking the winds each day.  Plenty of swell in the water that's for sure.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

SE swell from Hurricane Simon in the water at 2ft 11-12 sec from 160.  Most spots will not see this energy.  Small northwest swell at 2-3 ft at 12 seconds - just a degree up above windswell.  Long period northwest swell should start to show far north Thursday night - 3-5ft at 19 seconds, followed by a larger swell this weekend which will push deepwater heights back up into the 10-13ft range.  Northwest winds are forecast to increase towards week's end, while also turning offshore inland.  So morning sessions might see good wind conditions from Friday through Sunday.  Certainly check the winds and know your spots.  Pattern begins to break down middle of next week as the storm door looks like it might open and bring badly needed precip back to the region.  Cya in the water.

Hurricane Simon & Updated Forecast

Extreme angle SE swell from Hurricane Simon is in So Cal waters this am and moving north.  Angle of approach is 155-165 so it will miss most spots up here - except those with the best window to that swell direction.  Swell that does show will begin late tonight into tomorrow and fade late Wednesday.

New pulse of west/northwest windswell due Thursday/Friday (280-300) which will be good chest - head high + surf at winter breaks in the Bay Area.  Larger north.   Larger west/northwest ground swell (290-305) due to show this coming Friday, lasting thru next weekend and into the following week.

Winds look light northwest early in the week - stronger nw winds due from Wednesday thru Friday.  Forecast calls for another offshore wind event by next weekend - but not as strong or hot as this past event.

**Scripps Deepwater/Pt Reyes buoy has been offline since the 3rd.  Hopefully they will get that resolved today.

cya in the water.