Big Offshore Wind Event

Looks like solid surf through the week - with overhead to well overhead waves at north facing breaks forecast as back to back to back northwest swells keep the energy going.  The big news is going to be the wind - for a few days now NOAA has been forecasting a super strong wind event which is due to start during the day on Wednesday and last through Thursday night.  This is due to a weather system dropping into the Great Basin while as the same time high pressure builds in along the coast.  Could see winds in the coastal gaps as high as 50kts and spots like Mt Tam, Diablo etc could see gusts as high as 80kts.  So look for some hefty paddling into the face of waves with all that wind.  Cya in the water.

Nice conditions!

Large NW swell fading late today - still showing in the 1.5x to 2x overhead range at top spots.  Winds are blowing east and offshore.  Swell will drop fast tonight, but still be 1-2 ft overhead on Sunday at top spots.  New NW swell fills in late Sunday, not as big as yesterday and today.  Winds should stay offshore on Sunday, perhaps into Monday morning.  Good end to the long weekend.  cya in the water.

Hello Orion!

Ah, winter is close.  Caught Orion rising in the Eastern sky tonight on my walk over to feed some horses.  Always a welcome sign.  Feels like winter too, cold temps, cold ocean - big swells on the way for the Thanksgiving weekend - along with wind, rain and storm.  Look for small surf Tuesday, rising south winds later in the day.  New storm hits Wednesday and Thursday with rain and strong south/south east winds.  Surf 6-10 ft deepwater Wednesday, heading to the 8-10 ft range (deepwater) on Thursday and Friday with west/northwest winds due as well.  So not very clean, but plenty of swell.  If you know where to look, you'll find surf.  Happy Thanksgiving.  Cya in the water.

17 ft at 15 seconds.....

Buoys to the north are showing next swell train inbound with deepwater in the 17ft range.  Closer, Pt Reyes, 10ft at 14 seconds - solid.  Winds are light this morning, from southwest to northwest depending on your location.  Swell will fill in today - peak Saturday with deepwater swell in the 8-12ft range.  Steep angle (320+) as all our recent storms and swells are originating high in the eastern Gulf of Alaska - as high pressure is controlling the Central Pacific and pushing the storm track up into the Bering Sea, down into British Columbia.  This pattern is still very typical of La Nina which appears to still be in control of our weather and waves this winter.  Winds are forecast to be out of the northwest most of the weekend - probably lightest in the mornings and/or find places sheltered from the wind.  Plenty of surf on tap for sure with chance of light rain on and off until Sunday.  Cold temps as well mornings and overnight.  Cya in the water.

New Swell - 8ft at 14 sec from 330

Steep angle north swell filling in this evening.  Winds are blowing north/northwest.  Pretty much looking for north/northwest winds all week - lightest in the AM each day with a decent mix of northwest swell in the water throughout the week.  By Friday, the storm door will open again brining us a chance of rain, cold temps through next weekend.  Definitely waves to ride, just keep an eye on the winds and you'll most likely have to find protected places to surf and/or surf early mornings.  Cya in the water.

Papa Buoy 30ft at 14, CA Buoy 19 ft at 15 sec

New west swell is hitting outer buoys bigger than forecast.  Peaked last night at Papa with 30 ft at 14 seconds.  OB is going off right now with offshore, dropping tide and solid 6ft sets.  This is just the early stages, real swell won't get in here until late today.  Tomorrow AM should be quite solid (double overhead plus) and if we're lucky, still offshore.  Dust off that rhino chaser.  Cya in the water.

Offshore storm winding up, east wind all day

Small and clean with gentle east winds all day.  Surf will stay small through morning/mid day Thursday - then things should start to come up late PM.  SE Papa Buoy is showing 21 ft at 9 seconds with winds at 35kts gusting to 43kts - that will generate large short period swell.  Given the proximity of the storm - only 600 miles or so offshore - this upcoming event won't feature long periods - everything will be in the short to mid range.  Friday could be pretty epic - 6-10 ft deepwater with more east winds forecast.  Saturday should be good as well, as the swell drops out fast.  Rain chances have been downgraded for Thursday, but likely see some rain on Friday - especially near the coast.  Weekend right now looks cool and dry.  Plenty of surf, check the winds.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Tuesday looks pretty damn fine with offshore winds forecast and fading northwest swell in the 4-7 ft (deepwater) range.  Swell will continue to fade Wednesday, but feature fun size waves at north facing breaks.  Weather through Wednesday looks cold in the mornings, clear skies, light winds AM.  By Thursday, next storm system drops down from BC/Gulf of AK - bringing rain late Thursday.  Then a chance of rain on and off through about Saturday.  This storm is going to get cut off from the jet stream (a cutoff low) and meander, and while it does that it's going to pump in swell for the 2nd half of the week - from various angles as the storm moves down the coast of California.  It's going to be close, so expect the swell periods to be short to mid.  Friday morning looks fun, with east winds forecast and a sizable mix of nw/w swell jumping back up in the 5-8 ft range (deepwater) - good for 1.5x at best facing north breaks.  So, plenty of swell all week - probably decent conditions on and off depending on location/wind direction.  Check it, know your spots and you'll find something to ride.  Cya in the water.

Surfboards for Sale

Selling some boards -
5.8 McCallum Mini Simmons/light blue with marine ply keels - *SOLD*
6.6 Fletcher Chouinard KMRP (Keith Malloy) - 5 fin FCS set up - *SOLD*
6.2 Channel Island Dumpster Diver - $250.00 *SOLD*

6.4. Rusty Piranha - $225.00
6.5 Channel Island Flyer - $275.00

If interested, leave a comment with your email address (i won't publish the comment, but can respond direct to your email).  I can take some pics, send you additional dims etc.   All of these boards are in super nice condition.  A few surface heel dents etc - but most have been sitting in my garage unridden for quite a while.

10 ft @17 from 305

Solid northwest swell filling in - peaks mid day.  Winds are light onshore/northwest.  Swell will continue through Sunday - a bit smaller tomorrow and Sunday.  Winds an issue - as we have another cold storm coming down for Saturday, which will linger into Sunday.  Winds should stay light onshore/northwest through the weekend.  There might be moments, so check your usual spots and you might get lucky.  Plenty of size.  Cya in the water.

Offshores 7.5 at 14 sec

Photo:  Colin Drake

Winds blowing straight offshore this morning setting up a fine Fall day at Ocean Beach.  Swell had cleaned up as the windswell dropped out and the northwest swell filled in.  NW swell will be on the way down all day and winds should stay offshore until the afternoon. Things will change Thursday, through the rest of the week as a series of storms drop down from the Gulf of Alaska bringing a chance of rain, nw winds and very cold temps through Saturday.  Today is a good day to get wet - otherwise you'll need to find protection from nw winds the rest of the week.  Swell will increase again late Thursday into Friday.  Cya in the water.