Forecast Through New Years....RIP Sean Collins

Sad to hear that Surfline founder Sean Collins passed away this week at 59.  Despite what many have said about his website, as well as forecast sites, the fact remains he was an amazing resource for weather and surf information and revolutionized surf forecasting.  He will be missed for sure.  The thing about surf forecasting, you can provide all the info you want to the masses - it still requires a brain, local knowledge and the ability to interpret information on the part of each individual surfer to "know when to go."  Even on our crowded coast, there are plenty of spots that will always remain uncrowded for that reason.

For us, large back to back northwest swells will continue through the weekend - getting extra large again by late Friday into Saturday (double/triple overhead).  Zonal flow is sending rain into the Pac NW, but we're on the wrong side of the jet stream and look to stay dry through the period.  In fact we're not forecast to have any rain near our region now through about Jan 10.  This is not good at all for Cali, with 38mil plus people and high water needs - we need snow and rains.  December will go down as the 3rd driest on record in San Francisco (going back 160 plus years) - so the situation is not a good one.  Many spots that need rain to turn on - are quietly  sleeping - yet we've had epic day after day at other locations.  It's a mixed bag.  Winds look pretty good through the weekend - especially for AM sessions.  Tides will mellow out some as well.  Plenty of size.  Happy New Year and cya in the water.

Big Swell for Christmas

Long period waves hit the Papa Buoy last night - peak at 22 ft, 19 seconds. Swell is inbound and will fill in late tonight through Saturday - good for double to triple overhead waves again through the weekend at north/northwest facing spots.  Winds will continue offshore, especially mornings.  High pressure looks to finally break down middle to late next week with a slight chance of rain starting Thursday.  No big soaking rains forecast, just systems brushing to our north.  Happy Holidays and cya in the water.

Forecast & Pics from Saturday, Dec 17

Doesn't get much better around here than this past Saturday.  Solid swell, off shores.  All photos courtesy of Sean Shafer.

As for forecast - solid WNW swell continues through most of the week with offshores forecast to kick back in tomorrow through Friday.  Swell today is still in the 10-12ft range at 14 sec from 300.  Plenty of surf all week.  Cya in the water.

Andrew Kidman

Andrew Kidman - InnerViews from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.


Thanks to Seekfind for posting on his blog.  Could totally relate to this tonight.

Weekend looks offshore and larger swell arrives Sunday

Back to back WNW swells will arrive starting late Friday - through Monday.  Should see some deepwater swell heights of 6-7ft late Friday - jumping up to 5-8ft Saturday - with bigger sets at northwest facing breaks.  By Sunday - double to triple overhead sets common at northwest facing breaks - with larger sets at times.  Could be offshore all day Saturday - for sure offshore Sunday morning.  High pressure is locking down the region again - and looks to stay dry through Christmas.  Right now we're running far below seasonal norms for rainfall and snow in the Sierra so it's a good time to remind everyone to conserve water.  We have a couple more months of winter left so let's hope the pattern changes.  In the meantime - just ideal surfing weather ahead.  Both swell events from nw at 280-300+.  cya in the water.

Good surf on tap all week

Weekend was epic in spots.  In fact, looks damn fine right now with offshore winds and solid swell in the 6-7ft range.  Look for surf all week - smallest day Wednesday - then creeping back up again Thurs/Fri into next weekend with overhead surf at top breaks.  Offshore winds certain on Thursday/Friday.  Looks like light winds mornings otherwise.  Storm track stays north and east of us.  Cold temps.  Enjoy it.  Cya in the water.

7ft at 20 seconds

Clean, long period wnw swell just starting to hit - 6-7 ft at 20-22 seconds.  Swell will continue to fill in all day - growing larger towards sunset.  Saturday will feature large, powerful surf at north facing breaks - size down a bit on Sunday, but still quite solid.  Wnds are offshore right now.  Should stay light to offshore both Sat/Sun mornings - really an ideal wind/surf forecast for the weekend.  It doesn't get much better for an incoming, long period event.  cya in the water.

Tracking Large Swell for the weekend

Winds have shifted to onshore tonight.  High pressure stays in control the rest of the week.  We have a new WNW swell due in Friday/Saturday - probably bumping up in the 6-10ft range deepwater.  Mornings should still feature light to offshore winds.  No pattern change until perhaps middle of next week.  Cya in the water.

Small surf through week, offshore winds continue

Surf should stay on the small side through the week - then jump up into the large category by weeks end.  Offshore winds look good for Tuesday, likely to continue each morning at least.  Very cold air temps tonight.  We're in a Rex Block pattern as the weather guys like to call it - blocking high pressure sits out in the Pacific along 135-140w - pushing the jet stream up and over the West and into the Great Basin.  This is the reason for these back to back offshore wind events - but not great for swell production.  We don't get any rain either - which isn't good.  Right now the pattern looks to stay in place until Mid December - then perhaps break down.  The active phase of the MJO is trying to fire up in the far West Pacific (the active phase of the MJO increases the energy in the Pacific and thus storms and swells) - once that takes hold we'll probably see a prolonged period of bigger swells, more weather headed our way.  That's usually the case at least.  Still, pretty nice conditions for surfing, so go get some.  Cya in the water.

Offshore Winds through the weekend

Reinforcing shot of offshore winds start up late tonight -- will last through Sunday.  WNW swell is peaking tomorrow - deep water in the 6-10ft range - bigger to the north.  North windswell is also in the water - so beach breaks facing north/northwest will be a bit bumpy at times. Plenty to ride.  cya in the water.

Big Offshore Wind Event

Looks like solid surf through the week - with overhead to well overhead waves at north facing breaks forecast as back to back to back northwest swells keep the energy going.  The big news is going to be the wind - for a few days now NOAA has been forecasting a super strong wind event which is due to start during the day on Wednesday and last through Thursday night.  This is due to a weather system dropping into the Great Basin while as the same time high pressure builds in along the coast.  Could see winds in the coastal gaps as high as 50kts and spots like Mt Tam, Diablo etc could see gusts as high as 80kts.  So look for some hefty paddling into the face of waves with all that wind.  Cya in the water.

Nice conditions!

Large NW swell fading late today - still showing in the 1.5x to 2x overhead range at top spots.  Winds are blowing east and offshore.  Swell will drop fast tonight, but still be 1-2 ft overhead on Sunday at top spots.  New NW swell fills in late Sunday, not as big as yesterday and today.  Winds should stay offshore on Sunday, perhaps into Monday morning.  Good end to the long weekend.  cya in the water.

Hello Orion!

Ah, winter is close.  Caught Orion rising in the Eastern sky tonight on my walk over to feed some horses.  Always a welcome sign.  Feels like winter too, cold temps, cold ocean - big swells on the way for the Thanksgiving weekend - along with wind, rain and storm.  Look for small surf Tuesday, rising south winds later in the day.  New storm hits Wednesday and Thursday with rain and strong south/south east winds.  Surf 6-10 ft deepwater Wednesday, heading to the 8-10 ft range (deepwater) on Thursday and Friday with west/northwest winds due as well.  So not very clean, but plenty of swell.  If you know where to look, you'll find surf.  Happy Thanksgiving.  Cya in the water.

17 ft at 15 seconds.....

Buoys to the north are showing next swell train inbound with deepwater in the 17ft range.  Closer, Pt Reyes, 10ft at 14 seconds - solid.  Winds are light this morning, from southwest to northwest depending on your location.  Swell will fill in today - peak Saturday with deepwater swell in the 8-12ft range.  Steep angle (320+) as all our recent storms and swells are originating high in the eastern Gulf of Alaska - as high pressure is controlling the Central Pacific and pushing the storm track up into the Bering Sea, down into British Columbia.  This pattern is still very typical of La Nina which appears to still be in control of our weather and waves this winter.  Winds are forecast to be out of the northwest most of the weekend - probably lightest in the mornings and/or find places sheltered from the wind.  Plenty of surf on tap for sure with chance of light rain on and off until Sunday.  Cold temps as well mornings and overnight.  Cya in the water.

New Swell - 8ft at 14 sec from 330

Steep angle north swell filling in this evening.  Winds are blowing north/northwest.  Pretty much looking for north/northwest winds all week - lightest in the AM each day with a decent mix of northwest swell in the water throughout the week.  By Friday, the storm door will open again brining us a chance of rain, cold temps through next weekend.  Definitely waves to ride, just keep an eye on the winds and you'll most likely have to find protected places to surf and/or surf early mornings.  Cya in the water.

Papa Buoy 30ft at 14, CA Buoy 19 ft at 15 sec

New west swell is hitting outer buoys bigger than forecast.  Peaked last night at Papa with 30 ft at 14 seconds.  OB is going off right now with offshore, dropping tide and solid 6ft sets.  This is just the early stages, real swell won't get in here until late today.  Tomorrow AM should be quite solid (double overhead plus) and if we're lucky, still offshore.  Dust off that rhino chaser.  Cya in the water.

Offshore storm winding up, east wind all day

Small and clean with gentle east winds all day.  Surf will stay small through morning/mid day Thursday - then things should start to come up late PM.  SE Papa Buoy is showing 21 ft at 9 seconds with winds at 35kts gusting to 43kts - that will generate large short period swell.  Given the proximity of the storm - only 600 miles or so offshore - this upcoming event won't feature long periods - everything will be in the short to mid range.  Friday could be pretty epic - 6-10 ft deepwater with more east winds forecast.  Saturday should be good as well, as the swell drops out fast.  Rain chances have been downgraded for Thursday, but likely see some rain on Friday - especially near the coast.  Weekend right now looks cool and dry.  Plenty of surf, check the winds.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Tuesday looks pretty damn fine with offshore winds forecast and fading northwest swell in the 4-7 ft (deepwater) range.  Swell will continue to fade Wednesday, but feature fun size waves at north facing breaks.  Weather through Wednesday looks cold in the mornings, clear skies, light winds AM.  By Thursday, next storm system drops down from BC/Gulf of AK - bringing rain late Thursday.  Then a chance of rain on and off through about Saturday.  This storm is going to get cut off from the jet stream (a cutoff low) and meander, and while it does that it's going to pump in swell for the 2nd half of the week - from various angles as the storm moves down the coast of California.  It's going to be close, so expect the swell periods to be short to mid.  Friday morning looks fun, with east winds forecast and a sizable mix of nw/w swell jumping back up in the 5-8 ft range (deepwater) - good for 1.5x at best facing north breaks.  So, plenty of swell all week - probably decent conditions on and off depending on location/wind direction.  Check it, know your spots and you'll find something to ride.  Cya in the water.

Surfboards for Sale

Selling some boards -
5.8 McCallum Mini Simmons/light blue with marine ply keels - *SOLD*
6.6 Fletcher Chouinard KMRP (Keith Malloy) - 5 fin FCS set up - *SOLD*
6.2 Channel Island Dumpster Diver - $250.00 *SOLD*

6.4. Rusty Piranha - $225.00
6.5 Channel Island Flyer - $275.00

If interested, leave a comment with your email address (i won't publish the comment, but can respond direct to your email).  I can take some pics, send you additional dims etc.   All of these boards are in super nice condition.  A few surface heel dents etc - but most have been sitting in my garage unridden for quite a while.

10 ft @17 from 305

Solid northwest swell filling in - peaks mid day.  Winds are light onshore/northwest.  Swell will continue through Sunday - a bit smaller tomorrow and Sunday.  Winds an issue - as we have another cold storm coming down for Saturday, which will linger into Sunday.  Winds should stay light onshore/northwest through the weekend.  There might be moments, so check your usual spots and you might get lucky.  Plenty of size.  Cya in the water.

Offshores 7.5 at 14 sec

Photo:  Colin Drake

Winds blowing straight offshore this morning setting up a fine Fall day at Ocean Beach.  Swell had cleaned up as the windswell dropped out and the northwest swell filled in.  NW swell will be on the way down all day and winds should stay offshore until the afternoon. Things will change Thursday, through the rest of the week as a series of storms drop down from the Gulf of Alaska bringing a chance of rain, nw winds and very cold temps through Saturday.  Today is a good day to get wet - otherwise you'll need to find protection from nw winds the rest of the week.  Swell will increase again late Thursday into Friday.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Run of back to back swells will push in here starting tomorrow.  North facing spots should be a few feet overhead on Tuesday (perhaps sets to 1.5x) and Wednesday.  Winds look cleanest Wednesday morning with offshore flow forecast.  Steep angled north windwell will be in the water underneath the groundswell - which will make for sloppy conditions on Tuesday.  We have a series of "insider slider" type cold fronts coming down from BC on Thursday and next weekend.  The Thursday system will bring a chance of rain and much colder weather.  Northwest winds are also forecast to blow hard on Thursday and Friday.  Swell will build back up on Thursday in the afternoon - pushing up more on Friday.  So, plenty of waves around - but not ideal November type conditions in terms of weather.  Sorry Kelly.  Cya in the water.

North Pac Loads Up for the ASP Boys

Upcoming run of back to back to back northwest to west swells in our future.  First swell is running down the coast tonight - deepwater in the 5-6 range at 14 seconds to our north.  From 305-320.  Swell will fill in on Friday, biggest in the PM.  Overhead surf for sure at the north facing breaks.  Surf will hold into Saturday.  Next swell due in Sunday, a tad smaller than the first swell - strongest Sunday - from 300-320.  Last swell rolls in next Tuesday - (first day of the contest waiting period) - lot of west in this one, from 295 - 320 - good for well overhead to double overhead surf at the best north facing breaks.  High pressure will stay in control right now through mid next week - then the pattern is forecast to break down, storms get closer and the storm track dips south.  Could see much larger surf develop then - but also could see some windy conditions.  More on that late in the weekend.  As for winds this weekend  - light winds forecast most mornings - but could have a very light onshore component both Sat/Sun mornings.  So check it and you might find some clean conditions.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast - Week Ahead

Fog and onshore winds increased overnight - the crisp, offshore conditions of the weekend gone for the moment.  New northwest swell is filling in - deepwater in the 7-9 ft range - short to mid period at 9-11 seconds.  Longer period stuff should move in tomorrow and Wednesday.  Winds will turn back offshore on Tuesday/Wednesday - which should set up pretty nice conditions - especially Wednesday morning.  This wind event not looking as strong as earlier predictions - but still should be good enough to clean things up.  Look for overhead to 1.5x size surf Tuesday/Wednesday at north facing breaks.  Slow fade into Thursday/Friday.  Dry conditions through the end of the month.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Small surf through the weekend - in the 2-3ft range - but conditions should be improving with light offshore forecast for both Sat/Sun.  Swell will pick up next Mon/Tues going back to the head/overhead range at north facing breaks.  Next week looks like a pretty good run of offshore winds as well with high pressure building into the Great Basin setting up a classic October pattern for us.  Cya in the water.

Small surf through the weekend, better winds later

NW winds blowing hard today.  Look for generally messy conditions until probably Friday morning when winds may be northeast in the am - and possibly Sat/Sun as well.  Small northwest pulses will be the norm - through Sunday. Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast - Week Ahead

Sorry for the late update - was uninspired yesterday - however, today was super fun with very clean conditions (still clean as of 2pm) and a fun mix of small northwest and southwest swells.  Surf is in the waist to chest high range.  Maybe a few bigger sets.  Look for small pulses of northwest swell to keep up through the week (3-4 ft deepwater), fading a bit on Thursday.  Light morning winds look possible (NE to offshore) the next three mornings.  So if you can get some before work - probably get clean conditions.  No rain in the forecast for the next seven days.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast - Week Ahead

Solid NW swell filling in tonight - Cape Mendocino showing 15 ft at 15 sec.  Closer to home - Pt Reyes around 6ft at 20 sec from 295 degrees.  Forecast is calling for warm temps and offshore winds the next two days.  Could be pretty epic looking in the morning at many breaks - and manly with double to triple overhead waves at stand out nw facing breaks.  Look for surf to slowly wind down Friday into Saturday.  Nothing like Fall in Nor Cal.  You have my permission to take off work in the morning and go find some surf.  Cya in the water.

So much for that nice run of weather forecast...

Well, mother nature pitched a curve ball today with our coastal weather.  Fog around most of the day - light winds early, but not the clear, offshore day that was predicted.  Tonight - a front is sweeping into our north bringing strong north winds and fog inland.  Look for that to continue overnight and into the morning hours on Sunday.  Chance of rain now for Monday - then rebuilding high pressure mid week.  NW swell dropping tonight - southwest sticking around - look for an increase in nw swell tomorrow - but i'm not expecting it to be that clean.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Hope you got out today - was silky smooth most of the morning with some really fun waves.  Storm door is open - front will drop out of the northwest tonight and we'll see rain develop by tomorrow afternoon in the N Bay.  Swell will be on the heels of this storm - with head to double overhead waves by Tuesday morning.  Light south wind early, increasing during the day.  Tuesday is the break between storms (perhaps lingering showers) continued south wind and plenty of size at north facing breaks.  Tuesday night storm #2 comes onshore packing a much wetter (and windy) punch.  Look for generally messed up conditions all day Wednesday - as another new swell builds in late in the day pushing heights back up in the 6-10 ft range by Thursday (deep water heights).  Winds will shift to the WNW behind the storm on Wednesday and will stay from that direction through Thursday.  By late Thursday or into Friday we might see winds shift offshore as the low pressure system drives into the Great Basin.  More on that mid week.  So, plenty of swell to be around - but wind/rain and less than ideal conditions will be present through at least Wednesday.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Mid period WNW swell will wind down on Sunday - biggest early.  Look for north facing breaks to be chest to maybe head high on the sets.  Winds should be light and variable early (like today) - then may pick up more from the southwest during the day.  No rain Sunday, should stay dry - then we get a shot of rain on Monday afternoon and a much stronger storm on Wednesday. Next decent shot of swell looks like Oct 6-7 - more on that as we start the week.  Cya in the water.

Solid Day - Next Swell Friday - Weather Changes Ahead

photo: sean shafer

Man, how good was today?  Ocean Beach was dishing up some large waves - up to double overhead - and if you could make it through the whitewater - damn fine.  Think the ASP boys would like to see this come November?  Swell winding down through tomorrow - but still plenty of size.  Deepwater still at 8-9 ft at 11-14 seconds.  Today was the last real warm day for a while - as we have a major pattern change taking shape with a series of storms that will bring much cooler weather over the weekend and then pretty decent shots of rain next week.  Next swell due in here Friday/Saturday - not nearly as big as today - but good for head to a bit overhead at north facing breaks.  Keep an eye on the winds.  Might get a halfway decent run at it Thursday before the pattern starts to break down and onshore push begins.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead - Another NW Pulse Mid Week

Swell is currently 6 ft at 11 seconds - winds are a mixed bag of sw/nw - but trying to trend offshore at the buoys.  Forecast calls for a hint of light to offshore winds Wed/Thurs mornings this week - we'll see if that comes to pass.  Next strong shot of northwest swell due in here late Tuesday - with double overhead sets likely very late in the day or after sundown.  Wednesday will feature solid DH waves at north facing breaks.  Plenty of size left on Thursday as this swell begins to taper off.  Swell event from 280-310 degrees.  Tracking another swell for late this week into next weekend - but also looking like we'll have another shot at rain next weekend as well.  Plenty of surf on tap all week.  Keep an eye on the weather/winds - there will be good windows for surf.  Cya in the water.

Some shots from our recent run of swells.....

Photo: Sean Shafer

photo: Sean Shafer

Roaming SF photographer and friend, Sean Shafer captured some great shots from our recent run of surf.  Love the different moods of Northern California.  Enjoy.

Photo: Sean Shafer

Photo: Sean Shafer

Photo: Sean Shafer

Autumn

First day of Autumn officially.  Northwest swell at 7.7 ft at 12 seconds - light winds (fog winds) at coast - blowing northwest at the outer buoys.  Reinforcing shots of northwest swell will keep waves head to overhead at north facing breaks through the weekend.  Mid period, not long period stuff like yesterday morning.  Complex weather pattern above - low pressure rotating around by Pt Conception will drag moisture and possible thunderstorms up from the southwest today.  By Sunday, a low pressure system dropping down from the Gulf of Alaska - will give the northern 2/3 of CA shots of rain or showers - probably a chance all the way down to the Golden Gate.  Winds look suspect all weekend - could vary between w/sw.  Check it early for best conditions.  Waves on tap if you know where to look.  Next northwest swell looks to show next Tues/Wed.  More on that Monday.  Cya in the water.

9.5 at 14 seconds

Solid northwest swell filled in overnight.  Double overhead plus at north facing breaks.  Fog sucks - keeping a light south flow going on the surface - might be some glassy spots about if you know where to look.  Look for this swell to stick around through the weekend  (today and Friday morning biggest) - reinforcing shot on Saturday - smaller Sunday - but still decent.  Onshore winds look the problem - increasing as we get to the weekend - so that's the only knock on what would otherwise be a nice run of waves.  cya in the water.

20 ft at 15 seconds.....

Papa Buoy - 600 miles offshore just starting to show our incoming northwest swell - a few hours in so far in the 17-20 ft range (deepwater).  Solid.  Size will degrade on the way in - but still thinking we'll see deepwater swell in the 8-12ft range on Thursday.  Long period forerunners late Wednesday (evening probably).  Fog is returning - today was sick at the beach - if you had a chance to get some.  Might have been the last good warm day at the coast as it looks like the fog/onshore winds will slowly return by Thursday - and increase over the weekend.  Models have backed off on the rain chances late next weekend - but still not completely - complex pattern out in the Pacific and things may still get wet.  By the weekend it should be much cooler at the coast.  Plenty of large swell on tap for Thursday  - into Friday.  Check the winds.  cya in the water.

Here We Go - rain next weekend?

Here comes Fall - busy week ahead.  First small pulse of north swell showing this AM at 4.3 ft at 10 seconds.  Winds are light/variable - but locally dense fog at the coast.  Second impulse of swell behind this one shows late tonight - probably topping out in the 5-6 ft at 12 sec/from 317 range through Tuesday.  Wednesday - the real action should start late - as long period northwest swell forerunners will show later in the day.  Could see solid overhead waves at sundown on Wednesday at north facing breaks - then double to triple overhead Thursday into Friday (deep water 8-14 ft from 285-315).  Lingering through Saturday with another smaller shot of swell (from the same storm) due in Saturday and Sunday.  This storm is still still coming together for Wed-Sun - but pretty confident right now with models forecasting our first strong swell of the early season.  Winds look lightest for mornings this week - perhaps a bit more onshore push as we move torwards the end of the week and into the weekend.  The entire storm complex will finally move towards the northwest coast by late next weekend - and right now we have a very slight chance of rain next Sunday into Monday.  More on that mid week.  Plenty of swell on tap - check your winds.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast....

Winds are dropping - have been all morning.  High pressure is building in to our north and a bit to the east - hence the reduction in onshore winds and fog - especially around SF Bay.  Windswell is the primary source of surf - and should continue through tomorrow.  Winds may even be lighter tomorrow - so worth a check.  A brief warming trend is now forecast through at least Tuesday - with potential for nicer days at the Coast.  First possible strong northwest swell is now forecast for Sept 22-23 - (right around the Autumn Equinox) - more on that Monday when i have eyes on the wind field over the weekend - but it looks promising for some size (finally).
cya in the water.

Week Ahead -

Mix of small southwest and northwest swell/windswell on tap for most of the week.  Probably waist to shoulder high at south facing breaks - with an increase in size at north facing breaks during the 2nd half of the week (head, a bit overhead perhaps).  Winds look lightest for morning sessions.  Just a ho hum week really, waiting for Fall to kick into gear.  cya in the water.

Northwest Swell - Weekend Forecast

NW Gulf Swell at 6.2 at 12 from 300 - and small south at 1.7 at 14 from 180.  NW will peak today and fade out over the day tomorrow and Sunday.  Fog, winds continue to be an issue at the coast - south winds blowing nearshore - west to northwest offshore.  Forecasting an offshore flow late today and tonight - but this will not make it to the ocean to mix out the junk.  Look for lighter winds Saturday morning but probably still blowing south.  Same deal Sunday i imagine.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead - First Larger NW Pulse

Well, hope you feasted on that south swell.  Last remnants winding down this afternoon - but it was such a fun weekend.  I heard reports of spots working well that rarely do unless a strong south is in the water.  Winds were a bit funky at times, but there were also some really nice moments when everything came together.  We'll have a mix of longer period (small) northwest and southwest tomorrow and Wednesday.  Then look for a new northwest swell (295-310) to show on Thursday - and this will be OUR FIRST - larger NW of the early season - going head high at good exposures and overhead ++ at solid northwest facing breaks Friday/Saturday.  Look for light southwest to west winds most of the week due to the fog/onshore push - probably lightest for morning sessions - and like this past weekend, there will be moments.  Check the links on this site related to wind.  We need a strong offshore event to set up the pattern - and rid the coast of the fog - but for now - nothing forecast.  Plenty to surf however.  Cya in the water.

Macking South!

4ft at 20 sec from 200 - the whole coast was firing today as one of the bigger south swells in many years filled in. Period will drop into 18-19 sec range tomorrow and size may increase. Winds are still iffy - offshore to northwest inland and outer waters - still some low level sw winds nearshore. I think the sw/fog pattern may break down Friday and be clear at the coast. Winds may be light for am sessions. Plenty of swell until Sunday. Cya in the water.

Offshore Winds?? Swell update

8ft at 10 from 320 and 2ft at 20 from 195 tonight. South swell taking it's time filling in and probably getting energy knocked out just a bit by the north windswell and strong north winds offshore. It still should fill in nicely tomorrow through Friday. Tomorrow is Sept 1 and the start of the Fall season in Nor Cal - right on time - high pressure building into the Great Basin is going to give us offshore winds but still some doubt they will make it all the way to the coast for a nice warm up. The onshore/fog push still around - but it may just get knocked down. Have to wait and see. Hopefully the winds will at least be light the next two mornings. Congrats - we made it through another summer. Let the good times begin. Cya in the water.

Update on incoming south swell

New swell showing far south - 3.2 ft at 25 seconds!  Quite impressive long period southern hemi energy.  It's only going to get better over the next few days.  Updates to come.  Keep in mind - this swell was shadowed by Tahiti - so there will be lulls. Get your work done now, take the wife/girlfriend out to dinner tonight.  You'll probably want to be in the water later in the week.  cya then.    **New pic up top on blog - thanks to Brian Hawken who captured the image.  I'll be rotating more of his shots through as we roll into Fall.

Strong Southwest Mid Week, Northwest too

Pretty strong southwest/south swell inbound this week.  Starting late Wednesday - with long period forerunners in the 18-22 sec band.  By Thursday and Friday - spots with good exposure to the south will see solid size - head high plus.  At the same time - we have overlapping mid period swells from the northwest due - which will cross up dominate southern energy and make the beach breaks pretty peaky.  Fog, onshore winds continue to be the rule - but mornings have been pretty clean and some spots this past weekend were glassy most of the day.  The weather trend looks to continue that way most of the week - with maybe the lightest winds this week on Thurs/Fri with the incoming swells. Models had hinted at an offshore wind event next weekend as we're into September - but have backed off that and continue to the trend of generally gloomy conditions at the coast - warm inland.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Windswell and small background sw swell for this weekend.  Winds look to remain onshore/with fog near the coast.  Perhaps light/variable winds Sunday morning.  So generally small surf the rule.  Hit it early.  Next week, tracking two northwest swell events - more on those Monday - plus tracking a southwest swell that will come up from New Zealand.  End of month looks a bit busier.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead -

Small Gulf swell is filling in tonight - deepwater at 2 ft 10-11 sec from 315.  South swell at 1.7 at 14 from 195.  Winds have been pretty light the past two days - especially in the am until around 11am.  Should see light/variable winds tomorrow morning - probably Wednesday morning too. Maybe a bit more wind Thursday/Friday mornings.  Pressure gradients staying pretty neutral which is why we don't have a lot of wind at the moment.  Look for this mid period northwest swell to hang around through Wednesday - fading out Thurs/Fri.  Small southwest background swell all week.  Looks like we'll see a few more of these lows track in the upper Gulf of AK region for the next week or so - pushing similar size swell events our way for the end of August.  A good sign, things are changing, the jet stream is getting a bit more active.  September draws closer each day and it's all good to be a surfer in Nor Cal again.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - Update on tropical systems/North Pac awakes?

TS Fernanda is probably not sending any swell our way this weekend - she moved to far west and out of the swell window this week.  TS Greg, will probably send up a very small sw/w swell Sat/Sun - but only to very exposed breaks and very inconsistent.  Probably not noticeable under the sw groundswell in the water and north windswell.  There is a new storm dropping out of the Bering Sea, which will track into the Gulf of Alaska over the weekend.  This may set up a very small (maybe 3-5ft deep water) from 290 - showing late Monday, fading out next Friday.  It's the first system showing some potential as we move towards September.  Don't get all giddy about it just yet - but it's more than we've had from the North Pac since last Spring.  Fog, onshore winds continue to rule.  But winds are forecast to perhaps be a tad lighter the next couple mornings.  The weekend will feature cool temps at the coast for sure - and not much sunshine as low pressure will hang around keeping things gloomy.  It's mainly nw windswell and fading south/southwest swell for Sat/Sun.  You might find something to ride if you know where to look. cya in the water.

TS Fernanda, TS Greg and more southerly swell

3.0 at 17 from 160 today - steep angle of approach - but some spots are bringing sets in.  This swell is from a storm that formed off Chile around Aug 7th.  Winds are lightest at protected breaks.  Tropical Storms Fernanda, Greg are tracking in the East Pac.  Fernanda is moving wnw towards Hawaii - could see some swell from her over the weekend.  Greg just became a TS today - tracking off the Mexican Pacific Coast.  Forecast to move out and wnw under Baja later in the week.  Not quite in our swell window just yet - but he may move into it by the weekend.  Definitely keep an eye on these two storms - most forecasters dont pay much attention to swells from tropical storms/hurricanes in the East Pac - but they do get in here (as Eugene did a week or so back).  They can have some good punch given their closer distance to our coastline.  More by Friday - keep an eye on the winds - might be light the next two mornings - with coastal fog.  Waiting for the North Pac to really wake up and give us a shot of something decent.  cya in the water.

Early Signs, Week Ahead

Long period, small wnw swell from former Typhoon Merbok hitting our shores tonight - around 2ft at 17 from 290-305 - first long period stuff we've seen from the wnw in a while.  Small southwest energy continues - also around 2ft at 14-17 sec.  In the North Pacific, a strong early season jet stream will start pushing fronts into the Pacific Northwest this week - a good sign that we're starting to move towards Fall.  All we need now are for some of these fronts to push into the Great Basin and give us some offshore winds - nothing like that forecast yet, but the pattern is encouraging.  We'll probably see some windswell later in the week from these early season storms.  Fog and onshore winds look to continue this week - protected spots are going to be cleanest.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Been down in LA for the past two days - be glad you don't live and surf here.  Crowds, insane traffic.  It's a damn shame too, Malibu on a good south/southwest is a thing of beauty - just wish i didn't have to share it with 500 guys.  For us, some of this south is making it up - but smaller than So Cal - in the 2ft 14/17 sec range (deep water).  Small northwest swell from Typhoon Muifa around - but in the 1-2ft range.  Onshore winds continue to plague our region.  Fog, cool temps.  Who's ready for that first storm of the year to barrel into the Great Basin and give us some nice offshore winds?  We continue to move closer to September - just grit your teeth and get what you can.  Look for this small mix of swells through Sunday.  Cya in the water.

Run of SW swells ahead - plus more West Pac Typhoon action

A bit warbled but fun shot from the weekend - Hurricane Eugene pushed up more swell than expected Saturday - still some traces around today from the south - but probably just blending in with the incoming new sw swell.  We also have traces of swell from Typhoon Muifa - but quite small and background at best.  We will see a building trend of sw swells for about the next 10 days.  The best days look like Aug 12-16 when we could see some plus size sets at south facing breaks.  We have another typhoon, MERBOK - out in the West Pac - which could potentially send us another small WNW swell (290-300) around Aug 15-16.  A sure sign that Fall is just around the corner with typhoons turning extra tropical.  Winds/ fog - continue to bog the coast down - sw/west onshore winds the rule - lightest in the morning hours.  There are some spots that have been cleaner - but you have to know where to look.  Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Swell from Hurricane Eugene - showing at 1.8 at 14-17 from 165.  Not many spots will pull that in - but there may be a few.  Winds suck - ssw - fog, onshore - just miserable.  WNW windswell in the mix - and there might be some longer period typhoon swell from Muifa in the mix - but barely noticeable under the wnw windswell.  NO relief in sight from this wind pattern - will remain onshore through the next 7-10 days - maybe some breaks here and there - surf early, know your coastline and you might find something, somewhere, rideable.  cya in the water.

August

August is a transition month for us on the Central/Northern CA Coast.  The N Pac begins to wake up (as it is now with typhoons curving east and headed into the northern latitudes).  By mid month and beyond those of us living in the coastal valleys and hills start to see trees getting some early Fall color, nights and mornings cooler - all positive signs of the change to come.  As for the week ahead - Typhoon MUIFA should send a long period pulse of WNW (285-300) for around Aug 7-14.  May see a few plus sets at north facing breaks.  CAT 2 Hurricane Eugene was 580 miles south of Baja - and if he is to send any swell our way - it would come in around the 8-9th of Aug.  Probably more of a So Cal event.  Background pulses of small SW swell will go through the middle of the month with a lot of storm activity around New Zealand.  I think the best run of SW swell will be around Aug 11-17 - so i'll update on that later.  Winds are still an issue - as a trough of low pressure continues to stay offshore - keeping the onshore push going.  No real relief in sight at the beaches this week.  Best bet is to check early and you might find something rideable.  September 1 is gonna be here before we know it.  Until then - enjoy August, look around, notice the subtle changes and i'll cya you in the water.

Weekend Forecast and beyond....

I'm off to Ireland later today - so won't be updating this forecast until next Wed or Thurs.  NW Windswell is the primary source for surf through the weekend.  Today the windswell is actually decent size 8ft plus - but winds are hacking it up at most spots.  Small pulses of west/northwest groundswell and a new south/southwest groundswell fill in the background.  Winds continue to be the issue - and will fluctuate back and forth between onshore and northwest.  Lightest winds will probably be found early mornings - but dont expect super clean conditions.  You'll probably find shoulder to head high waves at northwest facing breaks - small at protected breaks.  Good luck hunting.  Dont think i'll be getting any surf in Ireland either - as late July for them is much like late July for us - only it rains a lot more.  cya in the water.

Oh so subtle signs of change.....???

Small northwest swell showing late today - 2.2 at 14 from 285.  Windswell hanging around too.  Former Typhoon Ma-on has kicked up a very small northwest swell that may roll in here around Wed/Thurs (shoulder to head) of next week and perhaps a bit bigger push of north swell behind that - late Thurs into Friday (shoulder to head high +).  As we're moving towards the end of July and early August - it's not unusual to start seeing small pulses headed our way and this is a positive sign.  Next decent run of anything from the southwest looks like the first week in August.  More on that over the next few days.  Winds still remain an issue at the coast - south to southwest - forecast to change back to west/northwest over the next couple days.  As always this time of year - surf early.  Cya in the water.

Meager offerings for the Weekend

Windswell and small background southwest swell.  That's all we get.  West to southwest winds as well - so not sure how clean any spot will be.  Best bet is to surf early and maybe you'll get lucky.  cya in the water.

Old School Shred

Hot Generation from Mollusk Surf Shop on Vimeo.

Week Ahead -

Small southwest swell filling in this afternoon - 1-2 ft at 17 sec from 230.  Mix of north windswell underneath.  Was actually pretty clean and fun this morning.  Fog is rolling in right now as we have a low pressure trough dragging across the northern part of the state.  Keep the small southwest swell in the picture most of the week - but the key word is small.  Might see an uptick in the size of the windswell from Wednesday on.  You might find mornings best for wind - and northwest wind will certainly pick up as we go through the week.  Hang in there - it's mid July - change isn't too long from arriving - hunker down and be happy with what you get.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Outlook

Decent run of back to back southwest swells will end over the weekend - and miserable onshore winds will continue at most spots through the period.  No warm up really in the cards for us until perhaps mid next week - and only then modest warming inland.  Background south swell and nw windswell over Sat/Sun - staying small - waist to maybe chest high.  We have another run of southwest swell lining up next week - but this event will be much smaller than this past weekend due to shadowing from New Zealand as the storm developed and evolved.  Deepwater swell this AM wasn't looking horrible - 3.2 at 17 from 175 - however, a bit on the inconsistent side.  Have a good weekend - as always - surf early this time of year and you might find conditions a bit "cleaner." cya in the water.

Week Ahead -

Good size south/southwest swell filling in - 2.8 at 17sec from 195 +.  Swell should peak later today and stick around through Wednesday.  Should be some background south swell through the remainder of the week and then all of next week - more southwest swell due.  Winds/fog will continue to be the fly in the ointment.  Just lousy weather at the coast with mostly onshore winds.  You might find a few spots protected - if you do there will certainly be something to ride.  Northwest windswell remains in the picture as well - no groundswells on the horizon from the North Pacific at this time.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

New southwest swell just starting to show - 2ft at 17 from 230 - look for a building trend through the weekend - and then another sw swell to roll in early next week.  The 2nd swell should be a bit larger.  Fog, onshore winds will continue to be an issue at the coast - probably through next week - as high pressure has moved off and has been replaced by an upper level trough over the  northwest.  This will keep temps cool coast side - and in many cases those of you at the coast won't even see the sun. June/July gloom - pretty typical.  Not watching much else right now - the N Pac is asleep - except for our summer windswell.  There is a tropical depression down by Acapulco but it's not forecast to enter our swell window when it gains strength.  With this pattern in place - best bet is to always surf early, check the winds.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead -

Not much to speak of for the rest of the week - windswell is the primary source of surf waist to head high at times, onshore winds the rule.  The next shot of anything interesting appears to be around July 11-12 - when a pair of southwest swells begin to roll in.  I'll update that by the weekend.  Until then - good week to get caught up on stuff.  You won't be missing anything.  Cya in the water.

Holiday Weekend Forecast

Mix of windswell and nw groundswell should keep surf in the waist to head high range through Monday at west/north facing breaks.  Bigger sets certainly possible - as we have deepwater in the 6 ft at 12 range - with some larger surf up north.  Southwest swell is minimal through the period.  Winds aren't that bad, even this afternoon - light onshore right now.  I'd say early mornings will still be your best bet with variable winds forecast - then turning stronger onshore for the PM sessions.  High pressure building from the desert southwest - if it makes it all the way to the coast it should wipe out the marine inversion - however - super tricky to pinpoint - so you might run into patches of fog/low clouds for those morning surfs.  Have a great holiday weekend - cya in the water.

Week Ahead - Rain!

Yep, rain in the forecast for Tuesday into Wednesday as a strong system is dropping down from the Gulf of AK.  Highly unusual - but that's what we got.  Small southwest swell at 2.9 at 17 today - should stick around most of the week along with northwest windswell.  Could see an increase in northwest groundswell (small swell) later in the week.  Winds - mix of onshore to west to northwest most of the week - once high pressure builds in strongly on Thursday/Friday we might see light to variable winds for the morning sessions.  So worth checking how hard it's blowing both mornings.  We will see much warmer temps later into the weekend - just a question of how hot in does get and if it's enough to wipe out the marine layer near the coast.  More on that mid week.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead/Summer Arrives

Summer solstice is tomorrow.  It's going to feel like summer with very hot temps inland and warm temps forecast to make it to the coast, especially Tuesday.  High pressure is moving right overhead - squashing the marine inversion for now - although we'll probably see a return of a strong seabreeze later in the week.  Today and tomorrow, and possibly Wednesday morning - winds might stay light for AM sessions - otherwise - best bet will probably be protected spots as west/northwest winds will likely pick up each day.  Check the winds - very hard to predict the wind flow when we get these type of patterns in the summer - especially with cool water temps still offshore - fog can form quite easily.  Swell wise - northwest windswell to stick around all week - and a new southwest swell starts to show late Tuesday - through Thursday.  Could see some fun waves at south facing breaks mid week.
**I'm out of town Wednesday to Sunday this week - so I won't be updating the report later in the week.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Windswell and fading south swell forecast. Saturday look for south to southwest winds with low clouds and fog. Sunday, high pressure builds to the north and east to ramp up north winds. Fog should clear Sunday but conditions for the whole weekend just don't look that great. Look around and you might find something to ride. Cya in the water.

Updated Forecast -

Windswell on the rise all day - as gale warnings are up in the outer waters.  Should top out in the 8-12ft range at 10-11 seconds on Thursday.  New south swell mixes in for the rest of the week - however i think the size is going to get the piss knocked out of it as it rounds Pt Conception and comes up the Central Coast.  South facing spots will be your best bet - as winds are going to howl from the northwest.  If you know where to look you might find something to ride.  Cya in the water.

June Gloom

This is a good week to get caught up with work, your kids, wife/girlfriend etc.  It's June, probably one of the worst months for surf in Nor Cal - and this week will be no exception.  Background south swell most of the week - maybe a "tad" bigger later in the week - but nothing to get all excited about.  And then we have that famous summer windswell - you know the stuff in the 7-9 second range?  Short period slop.  Northwest winds the rule, fog.  Grim.  However, if you have a longboard, patience and a smile - you might be able to find something to ride at south facing breaks.  Only two more months until September.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Fog and onshore winds will continue all weekend. Our current sw swell is winding down and will be joined by a new sw for Sat/Sun. Look for waist to chest high waves at the better south breaks. Just windswell in the water from the North Pacific. Surf early and check the winds. Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Thanks to the proximity of the storm system that brought us heavy rain yesterday, winds stayed pretty light this AM - in fact blowing east early - with a fun mix of southwest storm surf and north windswell.  Waves will wind down as we go through the afternoon.

Mainly light winds possible for morning sessions this week and look for northwest or onshores most afternoons.  Certainly check the winds early - as things dont look all that bad for June. Only swell of mention will be a decent southwest (205-220) due in here Tuesday through Thursday.  Could see a fun run of waist to head high surf - perhaps a tad bigger at best breaks during the peak of this event.  Also look for some inconsistency with this swell - it's coming from a long way down under.  Not much of anything expected from the North Pacific for the upcoming week.  Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - More Rain!!

Another late season storm about to roll in - it's going to rain on and off until Monday.  South to southeast winds - small mix of west windswell and south.  Find some place that likes south winds and you'll have small waves to ride.  Cya in the water.

It's going to rain most of the week.....

Rain on and off through the week - potentially heavy rain next weekend.  There is some precedent for this much weather in June - but you have to go back to the 1960s to find it.  Unusual to say the least.  No big warm up or high pressure in sight.  Just on and off rain showers with s/sw/west wind.  There will be swell - mix of northwest and south swell mid week (from fairly extreme angle 175-190) - but you'll have to find some place that likes onshore to south winds to ride anything.  No tan for you.  Cya in the water.

Memorial Day Weekend Forecast

Ongoing mix of west/northwest wind/mid period swell - (right now 5-6 ft at 9-11 seconds) plus a small pulse of south (2 ft at 17).  Another front is dragging through the region with very light rain today north of the Golden Gate.  Winds are southwest/west - and look for a return of northwest winds through the weekend.  Temps forecast to stay well below normal - and it's going to get quite windy on Sunday.  West/northwest swells will keep up through Sunday - with background southern hemi energy.  So, upshot - waves to be had - but you need to find someplace clean to enjoy them.  Cya in the water.

NW Winds, rain, swell

NW winds howling and will do so most of the week.  We have another storm coming in on Wednesday - winds will turn southerly ahead of that front - and then shift back to westerly to northwest - late Wednesday through Friday.  Long period west swell in the water today - 6ft plus at 17 seconds - and we will have another pulse of more southwest swell showing Tuesday - through Thursday.  Not as big as this past weekend - probably in the 2-3 ft range deepwater.  We will continue to see pulses of west/northwest swell/windswell all week - the key will be finding spots clean enough to surf.  Memorial Day weekend looking windy and on the cool side - but more on that late in the week.  cya in the water.

South Swell Update

Probably dont have to tell you there is a big south swell hitting most of CA tonight - plenty of frothing surfers running about.  Spots to our south like Santa Cruz and Malibu are macking.  But like so many (hyped) long period/very southerly swells - up here on the north/central coast it can be a very shifty event.  Because the angle is so steep - 175-180 degrees, some places may be missing the energy completely, or just getting sideband wrap.  Pretty impressive deep water buoy readings as well - 8-10 ft at 17-20 seconds is a big south swell.  Look for this swell to continue through the weekend - and we have a mix of northwest windswell with decent size too.  Conditions aren't that clean - with fog and west/northwest winds - best bet will be protected spots.  Plenty of swell if you know how to look.  cya in the water. 

Winter returns - Mix of North/South swells this week

Very strong late season storm ramping up offshore and about to bring some decent rains to our region starting this afternoon.  Showers will last on and off into Wednesday.  Winds are light s/se right now - but forecast to really blow out of the south later as the front comes in.  We have northwest windswell in the water - 5-6 ft at 10 sec (deepwater).  Look for swell to increase from the south Wednesday - forerunners in the 2-3 at 21 sec range - from about 180.  Many spots will not gather this swell due to the angle of approach - so keep that in mind.  Swell will really start to fill in on Friday/Saturday - Friday look for 4-5 at 17 from 180 - Saturday 3-4 at 16 from 180+.  South on tap for Sunday and Monday - but fading.  At the same time - we'll have a north swell in the water - starting Friday 6-7 at 13 from 298 - continuing through Sat/Sun at 4-5 at 13 from 291.  Winds are going to be highly unpredictable most of the week - varying between south and west/north/northwest.  My advice is to check daily and see what's on tap.  We're in a pretty dynamic weather pattern at the moment and there will be windows for good surf. Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - Stormy

Interesting weather this weekend for Mid May - strong storm dropping down out of Gulf of AK will bring a good shot of rain and thunderstorms Saturday night - through Sunday.  Cold temps forecast as well.  NW windswell will come in with the front - winds probably going to be an issue all weekend - so not sure how clean any spot will be.  Best thing to do is check it early and see what the winds are doing.  System sticks around through next Monday/Tuesday - high pressure rebuilds late next week.  Still tracking a decent southwest swell for late next week - probably late Thursday through Sunday.  Size is still tbd - but if we dont get hammered with northwest winds could see some decent swell.  More on that early next week.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Light north winds this AM - mix of north windswell and small southwest swell in the water.  Look for this mix of swells to continue most of the week.  Best bet is going to be sheltered spots as winds will be a problem most of the week with continued onshore/northwest flow.  By the weekend - a very deep, unseasonably cold low pressure system is forecast to drop down out of the Gulf of Alaska and bring us a chance of rain - and temps will be much cooler by late Friday into Sunday.  I am tracking a pretty significant sw swell for around May 19-22.  A big storm is just getting started east of New Zealand and will track north and east over the next few days with very strong winds.  Most of the energy will hit South America, Central America and Mexico but plenty of swell will make it to the West Coast. More on that late in the week. Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - Lower Your Expectations.....

Waist to shoulder high windswell through Sunday (bigger at north facing breaks, head +)  - with onshore winds.  That's what we got.  MAYBE - early mornings will be best when winds are light - but it's not going to be very groovy at the coast.  Fog is going to be on the move in Friday - pretty extensive Saturday - our warm weather of the past two days is pretty much over for now.  Cya in the water.

Week Ahead

High pressure gave us a decent Sunday - better than forecast with offshore to light winds most of the day at many spots.  Winds have turned weekly onshore this morning as a low pressure system well to our north pushes fog and low clouds to the coast.  Look for cooler weather still on Tuesday then a brief warm up Wednesday with offshore winds forecast and temps in the 70s at the beach.  Wednesday looks like the best day of the week - with more cooling expected for Thursday through next weekend. Surf remains small - 1.6 at 12 from 310 (deepwater height) and 1.3 at 14 from 180.  Look for surf to pick up Wednesday as a new nw swell fills in - shoulder to overhead sets at northwest facing breaks.  That swell will linger into Thursday, fade Friday.   Cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - ugh

Well Spring is finally upon us.  Water temps around 49 - steady nw winds and meager swell offerings.  We do have some north windswell in the water - at around 7-9 ft at 10 sec from 280+.  No south to speak of. There is a CHANCE winds turn a bit more offshore over the weekend as high pressure strengthens over the region - best bet is to check it early when the winds will probably be the lightest.  Windswell pretty much the rule this weekend - and actually fading after Saturday.  Really nice weather with sunny skies - so that's at least something.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast & Rip Curl Search Comes to SF

The Rip Curl Search comes to Ocean Beach this November.  Let's all hope for 14 ft at 17 seconds or so - since they've indicated the pros won't get PWC assist out to the line up.  Should be fun to watch Slater, Parko, Fanning and the boys paddle out.  Until then - we have rain, we have onshore wind and we have some small swell in the water as our soggy spring continues.  SW swell is hanging around but fading.  North windswell at 2.4 ft at 10 from 285.  Look for a bump up in north swell Tuesday into Wednesday with shoulder to head high surf at north facing breaks.  Another pulse of north swell rolls in Friday which will probably keep up through next weekend.  Similar size - perhaps a touch bigger.  Northwest winds all week - lightest in the mornings - so it's not going to be very clean.  Maybe early mornings are the best bet.  It looks like we'll finally see warmer temps next weekend as the storm track shifts north and high pressure begins to build in along the West Coast.  Cya in the water.

Mix of south and small northwest for the weekend....

South swell showing 2.5 at 14 from 195 - small pulse of northwest swell at 2.8 at 11 from 290.  The winds are the issue - been blowing west to northwest all day messing everything up.  The main energy in the jetstream is just to our north in Oregon - keeping this moist/cloudy airmass around, even though were on the southern extent of the storms.  We have a chance of rain again tonight, through the weekend and on and off again most of next week.  In short, no big warm up, no high pressure (but then again, no HOWLING nw winds either) - just murky weather.  Look for s/sw winds Saturday/Sunday.  The sw swell is suppose to pulse up a bit more over the weekend - northwest swell will probably stay around the same size.  Best bet is to probably surf very early before the winds gain speed later in the day.  Cya in the water.

10,001

Just crossed 10,000 visits today for this little blog.  Thanks to everyone for reading and supporting.  It's much more exciting than our current wind/surf forecast - which is junky winds turning onshore tonight/west Thursday.  There is a nice sw swell running in the 3ft at 15 sec range - but good luck finding some place clean enough to ride it.  Maybe cleaner Friday morning - more on that tomorrow.  Thanks again for visiting my blog.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

**My blog got a facelift - hope you like it.  Photo credits to Hawk (i'll be adding new photos on a regular basis so feel free to send me interesting pics).  Small surf looks the rule most of the week.  Mix of windswell and south/sw swell events on and off through the period.  The southern hemi is getting more active, so you might find something to ride at breaks with a good window to that direction.  I'd recommend a big floaty board too. Winds are problematic all week with a front moving past today and another on Wed/Wed night - bringing another chance of rain.  Check the winds early/surf early/be happy with what you get. Only five months until September.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

On again off again chances of very light rain through Sunday/Monday.  But places south of the Bay Area probably won't see any precip at all - and likely not much past SFO.  WNW windswell the rule through the weekend - pulsing up a bit on Saturday - but staying in the head high (touch bigger at times) at breaks that face northwest.  Could see light morning winds both Saturday and Sunday - so check it early and you might get lucky.  Not much else - it's Spring, it could be blowing 50kts and it's not - so let's all consider ourselves lucky.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Northwest swell filled in last night - deep water is 5 ft 11-13 sec from around 305.  Some bigger energy still moving down the coast and will show up during the afternoon.  Winds are quite light at the moment but will pick up from the northwest as the day goes on.  Should have moderate amounts of northwest swell all week - with deep water heights in the 5-8ft range, head to a few feet overhead at times at breaks with a good window to the northwest.  Two fronts passing through this week - one right now which probably wont give us any rain - and another on Wednesday with a better shot of precip.  By Friday, winds look the lightest for the morning sessions.  Check the winds and surf early - always a good rule in the Spring - and you might get lucky.  I'd like to give a shout out to the Marine Mammal Center - they came out to West Marin last Thursday and rescued a very young seal pup who had lost contact with it's mom.  Hope she/he makes it back to the ocean very soon.  There are many organizations in the Bay Area that provide wonderful service to all sorts of wild animals in distress and most of the people volunteer their time to help. It's a really cool thing about where we all live and surf. cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Mix of NW windswell at 10ft 11 sec from 305 and small south - 1.7 at 17 from 165 this am.  Windswell the dominate source for the next two days.  By Sunday - we might see another shot of west/northwest swell - but smaller than the event that just hit mid week.  Winds are actually blowing east/northeast this am - look for them to shift to northwest later today.  Look for variable winds Saturday morning and then winds shift to wsw for Sunday morning as the tail end of a front sweeps to our north.  Sunny skies, high pressure builds in - cold water (48-49).  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Lightest winds of the week appear to be tomorrow AM.  Large windswell is winding down and that trend will continue through the first part of the week.  Next large swell event looks to arrive Wednesday through Saturday with well overhead to double overhead waves at north facing breaks.  Unfortunately, onshore/nw winds will be the rule most of the week - plus we have a cool weather system coming down bringing a chance of rain from Thursday to Saturday.  Welcome to April.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

NW winds blowing this morning with fairly steep angle northwest windswell.  Look for that windswell to continue through Thursday (perhaps lighter nw winds Thurs morning) and then a couple larger more powerful west northwest swells due to arrive Friday through Sunday.  This will push surf heights back into the overhead to double overhead range at breaks with good northwest exposure.  Friday might have the lightest winds of the next few ways, but models are also hinting at a southerly surge of fog - so check it.  Saturday we have a small storm coming in giving us a chance of rain - and then high pressure builds back in on Sunday.  So, surf on tap for sure - but spring time winds basically - check it daily and know your spots and you might find some waves.  cya in the water.

The Up Side Of A Wet Spring....

Normally we hang our heads low when Spring arrives on our Northern Coast.  Windswell, northwesterly winds, super cold water, south swells at 1.5 ft at 17 sec.  But this year, all this late season rain is creating some sandbars at spots that normally start to go pretty quiet right about now.  So rejoice and go hunting you might just find some nuggets.  I'd also like to give a shout out to Danny Hess, Ashley Lloyd, Gary Hanel and Bob Mitsven.  Great board builders/shapers and i am lucky enough to have a board from each in my quiver.  If you ever get a chance to buy a board made by one of these folks do it - used or new.  You won't be disappointed.  I've been on their boards since late last Fall, changing it up as conditions warrant - just stoked to be catching tons of waves and really enjoying each go out.  As for the rest of the weekend and into early next week - Sunday will feature light winds early - but changing to s/sw late morning as our next (and last!) front arrives bringing rain - mostly from San Francisco to points north.  This will be a light rain event - and move out of here by Monday morning.  Looks like high pressure will take control for most of next week - with temps hitting the 70s by late week - in the inland valleys.  Northwest winds will probably be the rule - but lighter wind speeds - no full force blows.  Swell is going to stay large Sunday/Monday, at north facing breaks, then a gradual fade mid week.  Look for swell to jump back up next Friday through the following weekend.  More on that mid week.  Cya in the water.

29ft at 15 seconds

CA Buoy off the hook today.  Big West coming in tonight from this powerful storm that just roared ashore.  Look for 15-20 ft deepwater swell around here Friday. Fading some Saturday.  West winds (perhaps still some southwest) the rule - for the next 24-36 hours - then we might see a more southerly turn in the winds on Saturday when the next storm comes ashore.  Sunday winds in the AM might be light/variable - high pressure begins to build in next week which may give us a number of dry days - but also probably northwest winds.  Plenty of swell through the weekend.  It's Spring, Orion is setting - but the North Pac isn't done serving up swell yet.  cya in the water.

Updated Forecast

Large swell through the rest of the week - but the winds out of the s/sw are making a mess of pretty much everything.  Another storm comes ashore Thursday - and then possibly yes another Friday into Saturday.  First real break looks like Sunday and then high pressure to finally build in next week for a return to dry weather.  You might find some moments at protected spots - but it's pretty ugly most places.  cya in the water.

3 Boards for Sale

 Board for sale.  Left to right:

Channel Island Even Keel - 6.1 - $350.00

CI Flyer - 6.4 - $300.00

CI Dumpster Diver - 6.2 - $350.00

All three boards in killer shape - i'm making room for some new additions to the quiver.

Post your interest in the comments section with info and i'll get in touch with you.  Comments are moderated and not posted unless i choose to do so - so your email and/or phone number will not be made public.

Wasabi.

Week Ahead

Big storms will continue to roll in through next week. Expect strong winds, large storm surf on and off through next weekend. Winds are going to switch from south to southwest to west/northwest depending on systems as they come ashore. Heavy rain on and off looks the rule. You might find a few windows now and then but otherwise looks like a good week to get some work done. Cya in the water.

Hey Mr Lopez - why screw with Punta Mita?

Report from Punta Mita - shoulder high and getting bigger. Surfed today with "mr Pipeline" Gerry Lopez who locals say is starting a biz down here in Punta Mita - many unhappy locals and for us traveling surfers - be prepared for clowns on longboards and SUPs in the line up with no courtesy towards anyone and very little skill. Thanks Gerry. How about you stay in Bend and try not to destroy the vibe at one of the coolest regions in Mexico. Very uncool. I hope the locals drive you out like they did Terry Sims.

Updated Weekend Forecast

Crazy day yesterday with all the destruction in Japan from the earthquake and tsunami - as well as a fair amount of damage in Santa Cruz Harbor and Crescent City.  I got out in the water around mid day - up in Marin - and it was quite dynamic as the ocean was still feeling the effects of the waves of energy coming from across the Pacific.  Tsunami Advisories are finally over - and we have large back to back wnw swells inbound for Sunday and Monday.  Unfortunately winds look pretty problematic on Sunday as a front is also dragging down from the northwest - should kick up strong se winds.  You might see some light to variable winds on Monday with xxl surf at north facing breaks.  Certainly will be plenty of swell over the next 2-4 days - just check the wind reports and if you know where to go on certain wind directions - you'll have plenty to ride. It's going to be on and off rain chances most of next week as well - so keep that in mind when planning your session.   I won't update this blog from March 16-20 - going down to Mexico to chase inbound early season sw swells.  cya in the water.

Tsunami Warning

8.9 earthquake off the coast of Japan has generated a tsunami due to arrive our shores around 8am -(Ft Point) - be careful and alert. Deepwater height is projected at 2-5 ft but keep in mind this is deep water height and tsunamis are powerful and travel much deeper than the longest period swells. more info as it becomes available

**UPDATE

New wnw swell will get in here tomorrow afternoon - with some rain and light winds.  Probably look for double overhead sets late in the day at north facing breaks.  Friday, winds look light in the AM - and swell will pump up a bit more - likely see double to triple overhead sets at the better breaks.  Again, with light morning winds.  Keep an eye on the winds, know your spots and you'll find some surf.  cya in the water.

Week Ahead

Onshore/spring time winds the rule for the next five days.  Probably lightest for the AM sesh Wednesday - otherwise - pretty messy at most north facing/west facing breaks.  Main source of swell will continue to be the northeast Pacific - with shoulder to head high + waves (at north facing breaks) the rule until Friday when a bigger pulse of WNW swell is due - at that time we may see deep water swell back in the 8-12ft range.  Small storms forecast for tonight and Thursday - but rain stays mostly in the North Bay region.  Minor chance of rain over the weekend - but it's looking more and more like the storm track is getting ready to pull out of here for the season and retreat to the northern latitudes until next Fall.  Southern Hemisphere is starting to show some early signs of life - but a bit too early yet to really focus on it.  Make the best of what you can get.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

Fun mix of SSW swell from our storm this week and northwest windswell - 5ft at 10 from 220 and 4.8 at 12 from 315.  Should be a fun mix at the more protected spots.  Winds today have been light to variable to a touch of south.  Look for light winds again Friday morning, and probably Saturday as well.  SSW swell should fade some on Friday.  But look for size to stay around waist to head high - a tad bigger at times until Sunday - when a new pulse of west swell bumps heights up in the head high to 1ft overhead range at north/west facing breaks.  Weather should be an issue on Sunday as well as our next storm comes ashore with sw winds eventually turning wnw later in the day.  So get on it Friday/Saturday.  cya in the water.

CATCH A WAVE FOR MOLLY from Joe Carter on Vimeo.

From Endless Bummer in NY (and thanks for posting guys).  Really enjoyed this film.

March Arrives - Week Ahead

Well, March 1st is officially the start to the spring surfing season on our north coast.  However, winter is still very much in charge.  Large storm is forecast to roar ashore late Tuesday through Wednesday with high winds and plenty of rain.  In fact south winds look the rule from Tuesday afternoon until probably Thursday when things will turn west/southwest - then perhaps light to variable winds on Friday.  Swell wise - new pulse of northwest swell if filling in tonight - 5-6 ft at 14 from super steep angle - 320 plus.  Swell will quickly top out tomorrow afternoon.  Back to back westerly swells look to come in Wed/Thurs - probably biggest Thursday - with well overhead waves at the north facing breaks.  That swell will drop out quickly on Friday.  Another big storm is due in here next weekend.  So, for the next couple days find spots that like south winds.  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast - No Snow for you!

Winds kicked around to the northwest this afternoon - mid period windswell the rule for the weekend - overhead at north facing breaks - could still be a sloppy mess as well unless you find some place protected.  Freezing temps overnight - winds might lighten up by daybreak, so worth checking.  The big SNOW was a big hype fest by NOAA and our friends in the national weather service - although if you live in the Santa Cruz or Santa Lucia Mtns - you might see a dusting of the white stuff tonight.  Otherwise - probably looking at a sunny, chilly weekend - with spring time type windswell/mid period swell from a steep northwest angle.  Check it and you might get lucky.  cya in the water. 

Week Ahead - Snowboard Nob HIll

Very cool to surf this weekend in West Marin with snow capped peaks in the background.  If you like cold, snow and wet - then the end of this week could get very interesting - with a very cold low forecast to drop down out of Canada bringing us a chance of snow at sea level Thursday, Friday.  It's happened before during strong La NIna winters - so it will be interesting to watch things develop. Between now and then - small surf pretty much the rule with perhaps northeast winds on Tuesday - then the flow turns onshore Wednesday-Friday as the weather turns cold and showery.  Steep angle northwest swell will pick up from Wednesday on with head high and overhead surf (especially Friday) at northwest facing breaks.  Just check the winds as i think it will be hard to find many places clean.  How i miss those balmy days in January....cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

cold, wet weather to continue through the weekend - maybe a break Sunday.  Back to back, smaller west/northwest swells should be good for head to overhead surf at north facing breaks - smaller at protected spots.  Winds do look light for morning sessions - so might be worth a look.
cya in the water.

STORMY

Was up on the North Coast this weekend - way north - amazing weekend and let's just say conditions on that part of the coast are rarely that sunny Mid February.  It's all come to a crashing stop today - as the first in a series of pacific systems come ashore this week.  At this point - it looks nasty right through next weekend.  There will be periods of good size swell, plus plenty of south winds.  Might see some breaks later in the week with some potential east/northeast winds by Thursday/Friday - but my best call would be to check the winds daily and know which breaks will work on different wind directions.  There will certainly be something to surf each day- you just gotta know where to look!  cya in the water.

Weekend Forecast

We should have one more morning of decent winds and might get lucky for Sunday morning with light/variable winds.  West swell winding down through tomorrow and then a new, bigger pulse of WNW comes in - pumping things back up in the 6-10 ft range - double overhead at the north facing breaks on Sunday.  After Sunday - low pressure will take center stage pumping waves of showers/rain into California for most of next week.  Much cooler temperatures as well - especially by Friday - and most likely unfavorable winds on and off.  So get out the next two mornings and enjoy - then winter will make a return next week.  cya in the water.

New swell overnight - winds are offshore

New west swell is showing - 6-10 ft at 15-16 seconds.  Bigger further north you go.  Swell will be in here AM - winds should stay offshore.  Look for overhead surf at north facing breaks Thursday/Friday.  Winds look decent for the next few days - our brief Spring time blow has come to an end - but it's a harbinger of things to come my surfing friends.  So make sure to get out and enjoy the good days.  We also have a major pattern change taking shape for next week with rain expected to return as early as Monday - lasting through the entire week if the forecast holds up.  cya in the water.

Feels like Spring, looks like Spring.....

North winds howling offshore - buoys showing winds in the 29-35kt range - steep/short period windswell as a result in the 7-10ft range at a lovely 8 seconds from 330.  Look for winds to continue overnight - and then start to calm down as we move through the week.  In fact we may see a return to light morning winds starting Wednesday and lasting through Friday.  So don't panic yet.  We are looking at back to back small pulses of WNW swells starting late tonight and lasting through Friday.  Nothing huge, probaby in the 4-7 ft range (deep water swell heights) - with a bit more size Thurs/Fri.  By the weekend - and into early the following weekend - high pressure moves off - and low pressure move in - with a decent storm forecast next Tuesday, chance of rain this weekend.  Still way early to call - but something to keep an eye on.  We need more rain and snow in the mountains before the rainy season shuts down - so that is not all together a bad thing.  Keep an eye on the winds this week - know your spots and you might find a few waves here and there.  cya in the water.

North Winds kicking up

quick update - north winds are blowing hard at the buoys offshore and look to continue overnight.  Check winds early - as north facing breaks may be a mess.  Otherwise - fading west swell and short period windswell the rule - along with a small pulse of south - for Sunday.

8ft plus at 14 seconds

WNW swell filling in today - will peak overnight and start to fade some Saturday. Double overhead at north facing breaks today.  Down to 6-8 ft deepwater Saturday morning - and fading further on Sunday.  Weekend looks really nice - light winds/offshore at times.  Doesn't look like we'll have any fog - certainly no chance of rain.  cya in the water.

February - More good weather/waves on tap

Fog hanging around inland and at the coast today - fading west swell at 4-5 ft.  Look for surf to stay small the rest of the week - heading back up Thursday/Friday - which will feature deep water swell in the 6-10 ft range.  Offshore winds will kick up tonight and remove the fog - Wednesday morning should be really good at north facing breaks.  Swell moves in late Thursday and tops out on Friday.  Decent morning winds (if not most of the day) look to continue through the weekend.  Right now no rain is forecast through mid February - long range models are hinting at perhaps a significant pattern change around Feb 12-15 - to a wetter regime - but that's a long ways off right now.  Enjoy another fine run of weather.  February is considered the "last" real month of winter waves in Nor Cal - and with La Nina still in control - we could be in for a very windy, small wave spring.  So get it while you can.  cya in the water.

Back to some rain, onshores this weekend....

Our nice run of high pressure induced offshores - will come to an end Friday through Sunday.  Low pressure currently out in the Pacific will bring rain by Sunday.   Winds will be out of the west on Friday (maybe variable in AM) and then WSW on Saturday and WNW on Sunday.  Deepwater swell will come up again Sat/Sun in the 10ft range.  Surf is on the larger side today at north/northwest facing breaks - 8-10 ft deepwater swell.  Look for surf to fade just a bit tomorrow and then go back up.  cya in the water.

More of the same really......

Surfed out yet?  Well maybe by the end of this week.....Super clean conditions to continue through the end of January.  Offshores, above normal temps and swell.  Current WNW is winding down today - but plenty of size still about at north and west facing breaks.  Slow fade tomorrow before the next WNW winds up to close out our week.  Look for building overhead sets during the day Wednesday - and then double/triple overhead on Thursday into Friday - maybe down a notch on Friday.  High pressure in full control - it's been almost a month without rain and no change expected for the next 10 days.  We have a summer time high pressure dome over us and it's going to take a huge amount of energy to displace.  cya in the water.